• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

$500- 68 charger

daytona kid said:
I think I have them figured out now. There seems to be only one way they can go. Large on bottom, small on sides and top.

View attachment 674060
Click to expand...

I just went through this battle last summer on my 68 while doing a windsheild. It was built in September so it uses the 67 style clips. Concensus is anything prior to January 68 uses the 67 style bottom clips due to the hole being drilled in the lower portion of the cowl vs. the middle. Man I couldn't find many people back then to help with and I wondered why my 68 kit would not work with the lower windsheild trim. Funny I see this after I went through the struggle. 69bfan on here actually ended up helping me out with my issue and confirmed I wasn't nuts! Car looks great and you are correct on those clips. Long ones on the bottom. Here is what was on my car and why I was struggling with the smaller/shorter clips. They were so low I couldn't get the trim to catch the clip.
:thumbsup:

thumbnail
 
Yeah, I just hope all goes well with the windshield install and trim.. I started putting on my new ss brake lines. I have a lot of prior experience with ss lines so I wasn't too worried about some of the reasons not to go with them. I need to clean the rear end, still dirty with body shop dust.

20181124_213552[1].jpg
 
No I'm not using the console, I have it but everything about it was rough. It could be fixed up but I am going with something like this>

001.jpg
 
jeepers007 said:
Have you figured out the e-brake cable setup changes under the car? Really interested in this mod. Surprised it's not more common.
Click to expand...
I did that a while back, I'll try to find some post links for that. I got the 1st e-brake handle out of a jeep cherokee along with the solid link rod that attached to it with a clevis, clevis pin and cotter pin on the handle end. Since it wasn't long enough to get to my stock cables in the back, I bought a 1/4"x 5' steel rod from Lowes, cut the jeep rod clevis end off, welded it on the lowes rod, bent it as needed to hug under the floor within 1", cut the rear threaded adjuster end off my old stock stock forward cable, welded it to the rear of the lowes rod, made it reach angled slightly to where the stock forward cable met the stock 2 rear ones and attached with the stock 1 to 2 connector bracket doohickey. Simple, works like a charm.
Gonna put a little seam sealer around the jeep's bottom plastic cover and be done. My only slight regret is that the Lokar handle is kinda short but I guess that's not really a bad thing, it still works good and it's not in the way of anything.
20181129_214434[1].jpg
 
Last edited:
The new handle looks great in there especially with the boot on it. Pretty good idea I must say.:thumbsup:
 
The boot was the hardest part.. lol.. Another benefit to this setup is that I didn't have to mess with running the stock frwd cable thru the sub frame connector.
 
Got the seat installed for good now. E-brake fits/feels good. Was thinking about putting the radio in and maybe get a battery so I can sit in it with some tunes. Note the race mod to the $40 turn signal lever, lol, it was kinda in the way getting in and out of the car, and saves weight. lol.. Here's some inside pics.

20181130_194714.jpg 20181130_195341.jpg 20181130_194738.jpg 20181130_195106.jpg 20181130_195009.jpg 20181130_195146.jpg 20181130_194858.jpg 20181130_203107.jpg
 
Last edited:
I had been wanting to put a cut-off switch in the trunk key hole but didn't know if I could make it fit. With a little prying here and there on the trunk latch brace I managed to get it in and it fit great, no cutting or drilling, etc. The fiberglass trunk lid will be held down with pins in the rear but still use the stock hinges. If anyone knows where I can get a nice glass trunk lid let me know., seems not many places making them. I need to get the lid figured out and on before I put the fuel cell and batt in the trunk so I'll have room to get in to work on attaching the lid.

20181201_192628.jpg 20181201_195621.jpg
 
Started hooking up the Classic Tube brake lines from Summit. They are fitting nicely so far. But I'm worried about how the sub frame connector is going to get along with the rear line since it's a 1 piece. Gotta get a fitting to adapt to the proportion valve tomorrow..
20181202_174625.jpg
20181202_184324.jpg
 
Last edited:
Got the brake lines mostly done. It was a trick to get that rear line thru the intersection of the sub connector and cross member area. Fortunately the path it needed to go had holes and I was able to curl it thru then straighten it back out. I ordered some braided ss hoses for the calipers and rear end but they are back-ordered.

20181203_201659.jpg
20181203_202101.jpg
20181203_201846.jpg
20181203_202332.jpg
20181203_201541.jpg
 
Last edited:
Installed some clamps on the front right brake line along the firewall. Funny how you have to improvise sometimes.. Taking loose the screws and nuts then replacing them took some rigging.

20181205_201757.jpg 20181205_191643.jpg 20181205_191821.jpg 20181205_201420.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Blackheart
WTB Looking for '68 Body Small Block Headers
Replies
0
Views
105
Blackheart
Blackheart
RHDCharger
1967 Dodge Charger - Right Hand Drive - Update
Replies
2
Views
582
BeepBeepRR
BeepBeepRR
C
68 charger new member
2
Replies
33
Views
2K
HD539
HD539
KohrtRacing
Seeking Auto Body and Paint Tips for my 68 Charger
2 3
Replies
41
Views
6K
1970
1
P
68 charger restoration input from the experienced.
2 3
Replies
41
Views
5K
PNW68ChargerRT
P
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top