52 years later I'm looking to buy a Hemi Belvedere or GTX

1966 -1967 Mopars

  1. PROPMAN

    PROPMAN Member

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    In the Spring of 1966 I was already a car nut at the age of 8. I tried like heck to get my Dad to buy a 1966 Belvedere with a hemi in it but he went with a 4-door Buick Wildcat. We lived about 1/2 mile from McPeak Plymouth and would ride my Stingray over there to drool over the Hemi Belvederes and later the GTXs and Roadrunners. As a senior in high school I bought a 383 Roadrunner coupe with a 4-speed but that was sold after college and life got in the way. All these years later I still think about those 66 and 67 Hemi Belvederes, Satellites and GTXs.

    So now as I'm about to sell my business and retire I will have the extra fun money to buy one of these dream machines. There seem to be a handful available online and the same ones seem to be for sale today as when I first started looking a couple of months ago. I just do not know where to begin. I would prefer a Belvedere II with a 4-speed over a Satellite or GTX but any of them would really work for me. I don't really want to fly all over North America to check out all the available ones in person, so I guess I'm asking what is the best way to approach this kind of sale? I have never purchased a car sight unseen. I don't want a fake or clone. $75,000 is a lot of money for me and I have one chance to get this right.
     
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    • JimCoronette

      JimCoronette Well-Known Member

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      I understand that you don't want a clone, but consider this; If you buy a real Hemi car, will you be afraid to drive it?

      I had a survivor 1970 GTX with original paint that I was terrified to drive in any kind of traffic for fear of a fender bender.

      My point being, maybe not count out a nicely done clone, or a non matching numbers 4speed car that you can transplant a Hemi into. This way you can drive it like it was meant to be and have no fears.

      Just my 2 cents speaking from experience. :)
       
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      • PROPMAN

        PROPMAN Member

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        I get it and have thought about that but I live in a very rural area with little traffic and I won’t be afraid to drive the hell out of a “real” one.
         
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        • Jerry Hall

          Jerry Hall Well-Known Member

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          I have 3 1967 Hemi GTX's 2 are real Hemi GTX 4-speed cars. 1 is a real 440 GTX with a 70 Superbee Hemi, automatic, Dana 3:54 drive train. 66-67 B body's did not start rusting nearly as fast as the 68-70 cars. All of mine are driver quality cars, and the only one I'm considering selling is the clone car. According to what I understand the numbers to be, there were 45 67 Hemi GTX 4-speeds, and 63 Hemi GTX automatics. There must be another 50 to 75 clone cars out there that some are claiming to be real. Even with a build sheet it's hard to verify authenticity. If you're in the 75K range on budget you can find a real car, with an original drive train. Other things could have been changed over the years for maintenance reasons. On eBay right now there's a what appears to be the real thing in an automatic car for 57,500.00. That's a fair price for the car if its what he says. I will tell you, to not make a costly error look at the car in person and if you're not fully aware about the numbers and correctness of the car you have selected take someone with you that is. If you find something in the Southeast I'm willing to help within reason. PM me if you have some other things to talk about and we will exchange personal information.
           
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          • dan juhasz

            dan juhasz FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            pm sent
             
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            • halojumper

              halojumper FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              If you can afford it you may be able to hire an independent agent to look at a car for you. Especially in a search area you are interested in. At least you will get an honest report on the car you are interested in seeing how there is no personal attachment to the car.
               
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              • 64BEL

                64BEL Well-Known Member

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                Or find an original rusty driver and drive the heck out of it! That's what I did. Either way, please drive and enjoy it!

                One thing in your favor is the '66 Hemi cars are the least desirable to most people, so they tend to be more "affordable". Also, the highest production year for Hemi cars was '66, so there's a better chance of finding one. They made 503 Hemi Satellites with 4-speeds in '66, so that's a pretty good number. You should be able to find what you're looking for in your price range. And welcome to the site, PROPMAN!
                 
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                • Cojohnso1

                  Cojohnso1 Well-Known Member

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                  I think you are in a good and fun place in your life. good hunting. I like Jim Coronette's take. Who cares if it's all original? If period correct? You can enjoy much more. I bought a $20k+ 69 GTX for that same reason. Nice enough to putt to local show's with no shame. But definitely a driver. Also consider. You can add features or upgrades with no real $$ penalty. Make it yours? Just my opinion of course. And of course maybe a little jealous I can't bring myself to buy a red carpet piece. Like I said. In a good place with many options.
                   
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                  • Jerry Hall

                    Jerry Hall Well-Known Member

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                  • PROPMAN

                    PROPMAN Member

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                    I’ve been looking at the yellow one in Ohio for 2 months. I think it might have even been sold at that McPeak Plymouth in Anaheim that I talked about. It looks great in pics but you never know I guess. The “14,000 original miles” unrestored condition sort of scares me.

                    There’s a white ‘67 GTX with a copper roof for sale in Canada that has caught my eye as well. That one looks like a driver quality older restoration. I don’t need a 95 point trailer queen - I’m planning on driving the car regularly.

                    I am no expert when it comes to determining if these cars are authentic. Even if I fly in and check them out in person I’ll only be able to determine the condition. I’m trying to devour as much info as I can before getting on a plane.
                     
                  • Jerry Hall

                    Jerry Hall Well-Known Member

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                    I can tell you where the SO numbers are at on the body, the casting numbers on the engine, the carburetor #'s, and numerous other things. I always have a couple dime size magnets with me for suspected filler. You do need a test drive or at least a test ride. Looking good isn't everything. Most of the appearance and drivability are with any used car.
                     
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                    • 69bfan

                      69bfan FBBO Vendor FBBO Sponsor

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                      One thing to take into consideration on the 66 and 67 B-Bodies is the lack of reproduction trim parts. So if anything is missing, then finding nice originals can be a challenge. If the car is in fact, still original, the Hemi cars in those years used mechanical lifters which may need periodic adjustment depending upon how much you should drive the car. Not a major obstacle, but just part of the deal of dealing with a 66 to 68 Hemi. Enjoy the retirement and hope that you find the car of your dreams.
                       
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                      • Cojohnso1

                        Cojohnso1 Well-Known Member

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                        If I had only one single word of advice? I would try to limit the make/model and year in your search. The broader the search? The broader the knowledge base you need or need to acquire. Especially if moving fast on an opportunity.
                         
                      • kiwigtx

                        kiwigtx International Mod Staff Member

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                        Try sending a message to @skyman51
                        https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/the-finest-1967-hemi-gtx-anywhere.115667/

                        I think his price will be flexible....worth a shot.
                         
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                        • Don Frelier

                          Don Frelier FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                          If he is looking for a 66/67 b body, then numbers matching is really not a thing. It's a date range that "could" match.
                          But I do agree with your comments. It seems the slab sided B bodies are becoming more numerous by new members here.
                          Nice to see them get some love.
                           
                        • 64BEL

                          64BEL Well-Known Member

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                          Be careful of the claims of "numbers matching" (like the brown one in Fran's first link). That doesn't apply to '66 and '67 cars. The best you can do is date code and part number correct.
                           
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                          • Cojohnso1

                            Cojohnso1 Well-Known Member

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                            Be lucky you are a Mopar fan? The Poor Chevy fans have it even worse. If it doesn't have a build sheet and live witness? Can much easier be forged. All cars get more difficult as you go back in time. And yes, the factories didn't have the documentation concerns back in the day we value today. I think most of us has pondered. "Who knew" these builds would be so sought? Lots of cars from my past I would have considered alternative futures had I known.
                             
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                            • Jerry Hall

                              Jerry Hall Well-Known Member

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                              We never knew that they would be worth anything. We just beat the hell out of them. What I do know is mine didn't break and my Chevy and Ford friends were always having to see the dealership or get something fixed. Also I was faster than 90% of them.
                               
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                              • Cojohnso1

                                Cojohnso1 Well-Known Member

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                                I agree with Mopar drive train. But if we really want to "Keep it real?" Mopars have their own gremlins. Electrical, nobs, switches, trim, body panel rust areas. Even glass appeared to be more brittle. I Believe Ford has always had better steering and breaking components. I liked Chevy's Ball stud head design vs Mopar wedge rocker bar design. (Hemi of course excluded.) Just to name a few.

                                Who's the best? Well we are still arguing that question. Lol.
                                 
                                Last edited: Apr 4, 2019
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