70 Superbee Center Hub Too Short

[CafnutS]

I installed the following 4 wheel Disc Brake Conversion Kit. The Right Stuff 1962-72 Mopar B/E-Body, 8" Booster, 4-Wheel Power Disc Brake Conversion Kit - (MDC42DC-P)

I purchased the following rear wheel rims. https://www.classicindustries.com/shop/all-years/dodge/coronet/parts/?q=MW860

I am unable to hug the center hub with my rims. They are connected to the hub only by the studs.

Is there an adapter that will extend the center hub only; not the entire hub? (i.e. spacers).

I thank you all in advance.

P.S. I have another issue with the booster as well however, will address that issue separately.

 

[4speed68rt]

Looks like you will need some different lug nuts. Non- hub centric. Maybe lug centric. Something like that.

 

[R413]

Lug nuts are a fail. Are they bottoming out on the studs? Get some open end stock lug nuts and go from there.

 

[CafnutS]

The lug nut are only there to hold the rim so you can see the rim center hole does not go over the center hub. I'm going to use tapered small nuts. Imaged attached.

 

[4speed68rt]

So the hole in the rim is smaller than the outside of the hub? If that is the case you will need a different rim or different hub.

 

[R413]

Get some weld wheels, they have a large center hole.
Those 15x8 steel wheels are about 32 lbs each, kinda kills the performance of any car.


thanks for the explanation on the hub/hole fit.

 

[Don67Satellite]

You'd think those wheels would go over those hubs. I see you have painted them. I wonder if the stock finish (powder coat?) + the paint job could be what's causing them to not quite fit. They sure are close. Then again, paint ain't that tough. Unless I am not quite understanding the issue.

 

[pnora]

Many wheels are lug centric.

 

[R/T Boy 67]

The way I am understanding it, is the rotor is a lot thicker than the drum so the center register does not protrude far enough to fit into the wheel center. He wants the wheel to be hub centric. He can run the wheels lug centric or have the hub extended on the axles, or thin the rotor flange a bit if that is possible. I could be wrong but that is the way that I read the problem.

 

[70chall440]

Hub centric is nice when you can get it but many times you cannot. Unless you are road racing the car and so long as you torque (or at least adequately tighten) your lug nuts you will be fine.

 

[ckessel]

If you are going to use a taper seat nut like in post 4, use these. Much better grip surface.
Dorman Lug Nuts 611-154.1

 

[YY1]

I wouldn't worry about the hub center.

I would however, be concerned that the lug stud shoulder, small as it is, is not present for the lug holes on the rim to ride on.

Therefore, the rim is riding on the threaded portion.

 

[4speed68rt]

He can't get the center of the wheel over the center of the hub, it is too small. He needs to make the center hole bigger, then he will need new lug-centric lug nuts. That is the way that I am understanding it.

 

[MIKESPOLARA]

I'll start with the rotor. Is it sitting flat against the axle flange? Or is the rotor hole slightly under size to sit flat? Also rotors are about an 1/8" thicker then the drum so you loose a little there.

 

[CafnutS]

So the hole in the rim is smaller than the outside of the hub? If that is the case you will need a different rim or different hub.

No, They are the same size. It appears the brake setup takes to much space because of the thickness of the rotor and other components to connect the calipers. I'm just asking the question because many people here have modified their B-body to four wheel disc brake. Perhaps they have experienced the same problem with the parts that I have used and have a solution. That is why I provided the links and pictures so you guys know the combination of wheels and braking system I installed.

 

[RemCharger]

As long as you have matching seat taper on the nuts and rim, and they are tight, there is no need to have the hub touching the rim.
Millions of people will soon be putting on universal winter rims with the exact same situation.

 

[moparedtn]

As long as you have matching seat taper on the nuts and rim, and they are tight, there is no need to have the hub touching the rim.
Millions of people Canadians will soon be putting on universal winter rims Grips with the exact same situation.

I speak your language, brother:

(Charter supporter of the Cold War Motors YouTube channel)

 

[moparedtn]

The OP has a valid concern in my opinion/experience.
The lugs are for clamping strength of wheel to hub; the hub-centric duties (which ensures even weight
distribution) fall upon the hub center itself.
I know, I know....lots of folks run rims that aren't hub-centric.
Just saying I'll never do it - again, anyways.

 

[pnora]

The OP has a valid concern in my opinion/experience.
The lugs are for clamping strength of wheel to hub; the hub-centric duties (which ensures even weight
distribution) fall upon the hub center itself.
I know, I know....lots of folks run rims that aren't hub-centric.
Just saying I'll never do it - again, anyways.

With rust, wear, etc. you will be hard pressed to find a wheel that actually fits the hub area that tight. If it did you would have to beat it off every time you removed it. The lugs still pull the wheel in and in most cases the lugs are what is centering the wheel and holding it down. I will bet if you clean and measure most hubs and wheels you will find clearance.

 

[moparedtn]

With rust, wear, etc. you will be hard pressed to find a wheel that actually fits the hub area that tight. If it did you would have to beat it off every time you removed it. The lugs still pull the wheel in and in most cases the lugs are what is centering the wheel and holding it down. I will bet if you clean and measure most hubs and wheels you will find clearance.

A tiny bit, sure - but I'd submit that the lugs offer their holding/wheel retaining strength in the horizontal
(not weight bearing) as opposed to the hub being meant to bear the actual weight forces (vertical) being applied.