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Carb spitup question

V-Code

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Hello all

I have a question that the all might google could not answer so i thought i would register and seek a proper answer for my issue.

My GTX runs string but last year I had a carb fire. did not know what caused it at first and was able to get it out with only damage to the K&N. On a drive later in the year I was parked and was near the car when i heard a hiss about 10 minutes after sitting)

I though i would check it out and sure enough it would appear that the carb had ejected gas which pooled on the bottom pan (any slight bit of backfire and I assume i would have had a repeat performance).

car has been used for a few years and only last year did this start to happen.

any ideas?
 
Welcom aboard,we lost another lurker{LOL}What carb,fuel pump & regulator are you using??What did you do to the carb after the fire?:munky2:
 
Sounds like a timing issue -id start there but im not a expert
 
It is s fully stock 6 barrel set-up. nothing much done after the spit up aside from changing the mixture a little for a better idle (its actually too high now but I gotta wait for it to come out of storage to readjust). after the adjust I noticed the spraying noise and figured out that that's what happened the time of the fire. it all pretty much happened before the car went away for the winter.
 
Couple of ideas, but no expert here, check the floats to make sure they are free, and check the metering plates on the secondaries (if they have plates) and make sure they are properly torqued.

The floats stuck in my SSP after sitting for an extended period once. I tried to start it, and realized I had a problem when i smelled rancid gas and looked under the car. Thank goodness it didn't start. After a "quickie" rebuild the car would run, but when I stopped I would hear fuel in the intake boiling where it was leaking from the secondaries.

Good luck.
 
thanks fat jack ill look into timing this next weekend.i get that the timing could cause the backfire, but would it still be a carb issue with the hiss of gas 5-10 minutes after sitting?
 
thanks fat jack ill look into timing this next weekend.i get that the timing could cause the backfire, but would it still be a carb issue with the hiss of gas 5-10 minutes after sitting?

Is your gas cap vented? I'm thinking you have a build up of pressure in the tank forcing fuel out.Do you get a woosh sound when you remove the cap on a hot day?
 
im thinking its not vented. had a look at some pics of vented ones to make comparison. ill be looking into one of these and see if it makes a difference. its a cheap possible fix
 
Some people just drill a small hole in there cap to vent.But vented caps don't cost all that much.
 
A vented/non-vented gas cap has absolutely nothing to do with this symptom. There is no "pressure" inside the gas tank. Exactly the opposite - a vacuum created by the displacement of fuel as its sucked by the fuel pump. While we're on the subject... what have you done with your bowl vent hose ?
 
A vented/non-vented gas cap has absolutely nothing to do with this symptom. There is no "pressure" inside the gas tank. Exactly the opposite - a vacuum created by the displacement of fuel as its sucked by the fuel pump. While we're on the subject... what have you done with your bowl vent hose ?

Yes and No

Explain why:

#1 The gases rush out of the filler neck on a hot day.

#2 Why do the tanks bulge on a hot day?

#3 Why do the caps have pressure warnings?

The Vented caps allow air into the tank because out side air pressure is greater than the air inside due to the suction of the pump.The vented cap only lets air in to prevent gases from entering the atmosphere (EPA standards) How ever the fuel pump can not always draw enough pressure out of the tank due to hot days and expanding gases thats why some people drill a hole in the cap,older cars didn't have vented caps they vented to the atmosphere there were also pressure relief valve caps that did vent off pressure...I'm going to post more after work.
T32A.jpg

gas-cap-non-locking-jeep-cj-1971-76~9798200 (1).jpg

GasCap.jpg

52003774.jpg

129029.jpg

I've got more to add but I'll have to do it later.
 
Last edited:
A quick add while on lunch break:
All fuel tanks must be vented. Before 1970, fuel tanks were vented to the atmosphere, emitting hydrocarbon emissions. Since 1970 all tanks are vented through a charcoal canister, into the engine to be burned before being released to the atmosphere. This is called evaporative emission control....In some cases the charcoal canister gets removed and vent lines capped off or the vent lines get pinched or clogged with dirt causing a pressure build up in the tank......
 
You're correct regarding the evaporative gas pressure.. due to normal evaporation & heat expansion. I should've elaborated, as I was referring to the "Fuel" pressure... as the pressure of the evaporative fumes will not cause the symptom at the carb... it would be pushing a large volume of much heavier liquid fuel... past the fuel pump.. I don't think he changed his gas cap.
 
After thinking about this today while at work I'm more sure your problem is caused by percolation. This is when the engine is shut off and the engine temperature rises it causes the fuel to boil in the bowl and leak out of the boosters. There are a couple of things you can do to cure this, one is make sure the fuel level is not too high. You can also lower the fuel level about 1/8" below the sight plug hole and this will cure it sometimes. The heat from the engine will rise into the carburetor and will cause the fuel to boil. Installing a phenolic heat spacer between the carburetor and the intake or a heat shield can cure this. These parts will prevent heat from getting to the carburetor and boiling the fuel.

Here are some other things to look into if the above doesn't work for you.

The pressure in the fuel tanks is actually a normal condition. The fuel tank is vented to the engine's purge system via the charcoal cannister, installed on top of the cannister is what is called a "two pound check valve". This keeps all the vapor contained in the tank and lines until it reaches about two pounds of pressure, then it releases it through the cannister and into the engine.The fuel pump it self doesn't remove the pressure/fumes if it did it would vapor lock.

The valve is used so that when parked the car does not fill the cannister with vapors, thus causing a very hard hot start. One of the adverse side affects is that the tanks are constantly being subjected to expansion and contraction, which weakens them, usually at the seams and under belly, creating fuel/vapor leaks. You can disconnect the line from the tank to the charcoal canister so the tank will vent directly to the atmosphere,that way the tank will never over pressurize,or you could drill a 1/8 in the gas cap. Now that being said, the charcoal canister might just be clogged up from years of dirt and dust collecting in the black filter in the bottom of the canister or there could be a pinched or clogged tank to canister vent line.I'd check the above before unhooking or modifying any thing.

Leaking fuel is most likely due to a bad float valve, bad float, or excessive fuel pressure. The first step is to check the fuel pressure, which should be between 4 psi and 7 psi. If the fuel pressure is correct, either the float has sunk, or there is a problem with a float valve. If you have black nitrophyl plastic floats on a carb over 5 years old, the float may be soaking up gas and sinking. Also, if the carb is near, or over, 5 years old, the float valves (inlet needle and seat assemblies) may need replacing. Float valves have viton rubber tips (most cases) and rubber o-rings that can go bad, especially when they sit around for long periods, as on an old car that hasn't been driven, or a boat stored for the winter.

Your carburetor requires 4 to 7 psi of fuel supply at all times, under all conditions. Many "carburetor" problems are actually fuel delivery problems. Bogging and not enough power can be caused by too little fuel, and overflowing can be caused by too much fuel pressure. Before blaming your carburetor for problems you MUST check the fuel delivery while driving under whatever condition you use the vehicle. This means rigging up a fuel pressure gauge outside the passenger compartment and going for a drive.
 
thanks for the brain storming. was was sitting next to it today and took better look when it happened. it actually sucked all the fuel from the filter upward but when i checked the float on the center carb there was still plenty of fuel just below the screw opening. the float was raised and white, not black.

@ wileE... there appears to be no vent hose. thinking that this is not a original 3x2 setup as i went hunting for pics to see what i should be looking for and the carbs appear to be neither a 70 or 71. (see attached pics)

DSC_0291.jpg


DSC_0293.jpg
 
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