• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

"Christmas" comes early for Biomedtechguy...

Prepare to be swamped with requests to buy your oem radiator.
It will definitely be for sale.
I have and will be parting with a LOT of my original parts. In some cases I don't know if they are original or just were "on the car when I got it". I sold my non-N96 hood. My steel Rallye wheels. Tossed my front drum brakes and spindles in the trash, and just recently got rescued from that mistake by a couple of forum members because my Wilwood disc brake system requires the drum spindles and no one makes 1970 B-Body drum spindles new! I may keep my skid pad equipped correct V-code K-member, or maybe not. The rear drums will go to a good home. I'm keeping my 18 spline 833 as a backup just in case my Passon Performance a855 should ever need work done to it.
I already have a buyer for my Right Stuff front disc brake system. The leaf springs are definitely not hanging around.
So keep an eye out on the "For Sale" section.
 
I am very likely going to remove our factory radiators and do the Wraptor serpentine belt systems and Cold Case radiators myself.
You should have no problems with the Wraptor. It was a very straight forward install.
Prepare to be swamped with requests to buy your oem radiator.
That wasn’t my experience at all but it was a 956 radiator so my potential customer base was probably limited.
 
I would not let anyone Frankenstein a brake kit together for me. If wilwood Does not offer that rotor/caliper combo DO NOT PUT IT ON YOUR CAR!!! That is a very dangerous situation and could be fatal In the event of a failure! Think about it do you want to sacrifice safety for looks? Just get the 4 piston calipers that come with that rotor or if you really want the 6 piston fork up the money to get the correct set up.
 
I would not let anyone Frankenstein a brake kit together for me. If wilwood Does not offer that rotor/caliper combo DO NOT PUT IT ON YOUR CAR!!! That is a very dangerous situation and could be fatal In the event of a failure! Think about it do you want to sacrifice safety for looks? Just get the 4 piston calipers that come with that rotor or if you really want the 6 piston fork up the money to get the correct set up.
I think somewhere he mentioned a prop valve for the rear brakes. That should dispel any safety concerns.
 
I would not let anyone Frankenstein a brake kit together for me. If wilwood Does not offer that rotor/caliper combo DO NOT PUT IT ON YOUR CAR!!! That is a very dangerous situation and could be fatal In the event of a failure! Think about it do you want to sacrifice safety for looks? Just get the 4 piston calipers that come with that rotor or if you really want the 6 piston fork up the money to get the correct set up.
Guys, I really appreciate the comments and concern, but Quick Performance has done the 4 to 6 piston swap on the 12.19" rotor quite a few times. The 6 piston caliper is available separately from Wilwood, and the way it mounts uses all factory Wilwood hardware. They are just making the swap. The QP rep explained it to me, and I probably have my picture and contact info on the cubicle of every rep at QP from the HOURS of phone calls and emails I've been involved in with them, reviewing the most minute of details, in particular on the rear axle assembly for the GTO.
If I thought this was some half-baked one off that I was the Beta tester for, there's no way I would do it.
Maybe I can explain in more detail later.
I think somewhere he mentioned a prop valve for the rear brakes. That should dispel any safety concerns.
Yes, it comes with a very nice prop valve. There is much more to it than just adjusting force in making this work, and I can assure you that this is a "fits like a glove" swap, and uses the Wilwood hardware. No smoke and mirrors, just a happy coincidence.
I'm going to email the rep right now and ask for a detailed explanation of how the 4 to 6 piston caliper swap is possible.
 
I would just hate to see something happen to you and or the car. Safety first! If you are confident in it go for it i I know you’ll do your due diligence! My thought is just if wilwood doesn’t offer the 2 together there’s got to be at reason.
 
I would just hate to see something happen to you and or the car. Safety first! If you are confident in it go for it i I know you’ll do your due diligence! My thought is just if wilwood doesn’t offer the 2 together there’s got to be at reason.
I just sent an email to the rep at Quick Performance requesting a detailed explanation. I'll follow up with a cut and paste.
I sincerely appreciate your concern about
1: my car
And
Then
Way
Down
The
Line....
2: Me...LOL!
:lol:
 
So here's the story about how the 6 piston calipers can be swapped in the place of the 4 piston calipers:
First the specs:
4 piston:
Screenshot_20191119-094305_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20191119-094408_Chrome.jpg

6 piston:
Screenshot_20191119-094610_Chrome.jpg
Screenshot_20191119-094637_Chrome.jpg
 
Here's the story:
Caliper Bolts, shims, mounting brackets all stay the same.The only change to the original kit are the calipers (120-13438-RD, 120-13439-RD) and the pads (150-10006K)
The piston area of the calipers we're going with almost exactly matches the piston area of the calipers that were originally equipped with this kit.
We're dealing with a closed hydraulic system, so fluid volume requirement and mechanical advantage all depend on the ratio of the master cylinder piston area vs slave cylinder area. I'm relying on the tried-and-true master vs slave cylinder ratio from Wilwood's most popular configurations.
We're doing this to make sure we're not changing the mechanical advantage, but instead we are going to be gaining some added performance from the fact the brake pad area is increased. The 6 piston configuration allows for even pressure over a larger brake pad.
I think the real world performance gain will be minimal because we still need proper front/rear brake bias and that will be set by you or your installer with the proportioning valve. We're going to have the potentiate for much more rear braking than we need. Six piston rear brakes are overkill but will not harm the braking performance because we have the proportioning valve to dial everything in. The real reason to make this swap is to make your setup cooler than 99% of the "other guys" out there running Wilwoods.
:thumbsup: :bananadance::bananaweed::carrot::drinks:

So there's a chunk of info as to why this is possible. There are a LOT of specifications and instructions that are available for download on the Wilwood site with the parts I'm using, so if I wanted to download and/or print the relative data, and compare it line by line, I could, and I may, but I have placed the order, and I plan on installing everything, because this has been done before.
This is my second time around upgrading the brakes, and the last time, and because of the "at cost" opportunity, and that my Roadrunner is the object that receives the majority of my attention and my "fun money" and I find value in knowing and being able to brag about "having 6 piston calipers on all 4 corners", I'm pretty excited about doing this!
When I had the Quick Performance Ford based 9" rear axle assembly installed in the GTO, I also upgraded EVERYTHING related to the rear suspension, using UMI suspension parts all around, and I had a 4 wheel disc brake system installed at that time, along with the line lock and a new brake booster.
Here's a few pix of the GTO Wilwood upgrades:
20180921_160629.jpg
20180926_132937.jpg
20180926_132946.jpg
20180926_133846.jpg

So now it's time to do the brake upgrade on the Roadrunner, and I'm doing something this time that is not only towards the top of the ladder, but something that adds to the "restomod/pro-touring" theme, adds something to point to at a car show, and improves performance for safety.
 
That just sparked a thought about this whole upgrade. I wonder what the difference in total weight before and after each upgrade and the end weight will be? Including the engine, pulleys, brakes, etc.
 
Close to a wash if I had to guess.
If I go with an aftermarket block, I will definitely go aluminum, so there's that...
 
I'm adding air conditioning, and a power steering pump, a "peanut" AC compressor, and I will be swapping my manual steering box for a Borgeson power steering box. All of the Wraptor stuff is billet aluminum, including the large "foundation" bracket that everything attaches to. The Caltracs suspension w/split mono leaf springs is probably a little lighter all together than the factory multi leaf springs, and the QA1 K-member and front suspension is a few pounds lighter too. The brakes will probably save a few pounds where it really counts.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top