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clutch and pressure plate

mac

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Aug 2, 2008
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Location
lancaster, new york
what recommendations do you guys have for a clutch and pressure plate? i think my new engine has gone beyond my current setup. 69 roadrunner with 500 inch stroker
 
If I was a "stick guy" I would want a dual disc clutch.
Mike
 
I have s set up from American Powertrain good for 750lbft. A bit over kill, but I really didn’t want to be replacing clutches.
 
I like McLeod Borg and Beck/ long or another weight lock up slips a little clutch
I'm not doing high rpm Bonsai launches and do not want to break expensive parts
also I've gotten away from stiff clutch/ heavy spring pressure plates
 
You will get a lot of opinions on this....and here's another one. I've run my 4spd car for 30 yrs. & street raced it (no roll bar). I've tried "stock" borg-beck style clutches (junk), Zoom borg & beck, Hayes borg & beck (was good, now junk)...... I really like my Centerforce dual friction diaphragm type now. I never thought I'd ever go with a diaphragm type clutch & I haven't put the nitrous to it yet, but is sure is handling the motor just fine, even with 3000+ rpm launches.
 
You will get a lot of opinions on this....and here's another one. I've run my 4spd car for 30 yrs. & street raced it (no roll bar). I've tried "stock" borg-beck style clutches (junk), Zoom borg & beck, Hayes borg & beck (was good, now junk)...... I really like my Centerforce dual friction diaphragm type now. I never thought I'd ever go with a diaphragm type clutch & I haven't put the nitrous to it yet, but is sure is handling the motor just fine, even with 3000+ rpm launches.

the center force dual seems to come up a lot on searches. that may be the direction i go.
 
My McLeod b&b heavy duty street/strip boogered up after 1 year, and that's not many miles, and 1 or 2 track days. Some metal part broke in it and it wouldn't disengage.
They don't make it anymore, although it was only 2 years ago when I got it. 130 tooth flywheel.
I replaced it with a McLeod diaphragm style pp, used the same clutch disc and it's great. 3,000 pounds of clamping pressure, so stiff, but a lot smoother than the b&b, and a lot less money than the Centerforce.
 
Whatever you buy, take it to a reputable machine shop and have them balance the pressure plate and flywheel.

My “neutral” SFI hays flywheel needed balancing and so did my McLeod pressure plate.
 
Whatever you buy, take it to a reputable machine shop and have them balance the pressure plate and flywheel.
My “neutral” SFI hays flywheel needed balancing and so did my McLeod pressure plate.
I've never had that done, although I don't question whether or not it's a good idea.
What would the telling symptoms/issues be of a flywheel (like the billet one I bought from Brewers'-that should come balanced) or a pressure plate that's not "locally balanced" be??
Thanks.
 
I've never had that done, although I don't question whether or not it's a good idea.
What would the telling symptoms/issues be of a flywheel (like the billet one I bought from Brewers'-that should come balanced) or a pressure plate that's not "locally balanced" be??
Thanks.
An engine vibration at maybe 3000+rpm or so.....main bearings taking a beating & oil pressure dropping off.....clutch might start to "chatter" when engaging a little sooner than expected
 
An engine vibration at maybe 3000+rpm or so.....main bearings taking a beating & oil pressure dropping off.....clutch might start to "chatter" when engaging a little sooner than expected
Thanks again PB...I wouldn't have given a second of thought to having a brand new billet steel flywheel from Wayne or any other reputable company checked and if need be balanced locally. Same goes for a pressure plate.
I guess I'll get them checked out the next time I have my transmission out, but not until then.
I'm also going to talk with Wayne and McLeod about this. Curious what they say.
 
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