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Dead short

Ron 73

Deceased, But not forgotton
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I have a dead short somewhere in my car ive found out. Where exactly is a good place to begin? Any ideas ill be grateful to hear them. I have gone over all the grounds to make sure there ok. I did put a new radio and CD player in but the memory power cable wouldn't drain a battery in a couple days would it? Battery is new. And this is the first the car has been road ready since i got it nearly 7 years ago and im thinking the problem i inherited with it. Thanks....
 
buy a power probe!!!! invaluable tool and makes finding shorts easy! I love mine and used to beat myself to death on open or grounded circuits! I bought mine from Matco but they are sold on Ebay also I think.
 
You can pull all the fuses and see if the problem goes away. That will narrow it down to those circuits. Also check where you last been. Maybe you inadvertently did something while hooking up the stereo.
 
meeps on the right track. its a process of elimination. sometimes your lucky and its easy and sometimes you will swear and have a drink.
 
Put a meter between the neg battery lead and the post. You should have 0 volts, anything higher then you have a drain. Pull fuses then plugs until the drain goes away. I have a power probe and it works great for tracking down stuff like this.

Dave F
 
Thanks guys, I have checked into the power probe, sounds like a good tool to have around. I started to check some things today and found a few things i need to check into, im finding if i turn the key on not starting just on, my volt meter is twitching almost like a clock ticking, you cant hear it but you can see it. ive never seen this happen before, right now im trying to retrace everything ive put in but ill be back and let you guys know what it is, Hopefully ill find it quickly, theres a car show just 10 miles from me here.. next week i think. Short wont stop me though. thanks to all..

thought id add real quick no clock in car....
 
not to be a doom and gloomer but shorts can sometimes lead to fires. Might want to fix this before going to the car show. just my 2 cents
 
Darkhorse your not the doom and gloomer your exactly right with fires, there common if things arent right.

Prop, your on to something, Yesterday i took the steering wheel off because everytime the cars sitting there and ya hit the horn, the turn signal flasher clicks in the box, if the key is on it wont do it... i unhooked the horn it cant unhooked at steering wheel but i cant find anything that looks wrong with the switch, that LOOKS wrong. Can anyone give me some volt readings, say set at 20 v to check and find out something? unhooking at wheel not stopping the drain... in the mean time i may not be able to do anything until this afternoon so ill check back hopefully. Thanks guys.
 
Pretty much any working circuit will register about 12V. For example if you did this test with the door open and saw 12V on the meter that would most likely be the dome light but with the meter hooked up it won't be on. A voltage reading of say 5V would indicate a small drain, or something that may not be noticed at all if the car only sits for a couple of days. If you disconnect the battery and reconnect and you see a spark as you just touch the terminal that means something is on. Big spark = big power drain. Arc welding = someone has the key in the start position :eek:
 
Eliminated a few things lots more for tomorrow if weather is ok, other car in garage. I found that my horn although there is none in it when you push the horn button, the turn signal relay clicks, if key set on the on position doesn't do it. Meep, you can see a small spark, very little so not the big-en anyway. Tomorrow another day searching. I have the turn signal switch unfastened and guess go from there, to look at it its fine but has to id think be related somehow you can actually feel the relay clicking while hitting horn.
 
Is it a tilt column? If so I bet you have broken wires, and could be touching other exposed wires. I have seen that scenario more than a few times!!
 
No sir, No tilt... Wires to look at them look good but looks sometimes deceiving. I cant find anything in the column that looks even remotely bad, to look at them im saying. Im hoping to get it fixed by the show coming up but i wont miss it, car may though lol. Thanks, every suggestion i get will give me something its been years since i played with this type of problem. One other thing ive been checking is all the lights and seem to all work except the P-side tail light, D-side ok and the one that wont work is making me think, it works with the 4-ways, brake light and turn signal but not with the lights. I replaced the bulb but still the same, once thats fixed all the lights are finished. I wonder if this has anything to do with it. I am ordering the probe but im still searching now regardless. Thanks...
 
Ok let iron this out, I have seen a lot of things like this, I spent over 20 years in the auto electronics biz. Starting with the fact that you don’t have a dead short if you did you would have a box of blown fuses or a car on fire, what you have is a high current draw somewhere in the car. but starting with the easy problem the taillight is going to be a broken wire or bad socket the harness come down the driver’s side feeds the driver’s side lights then goes across the trunk to the other side nothing there to cause a draw.

Do a good battery load test, if you can’t at home take it to the local ap store, I have seen brand new batteries come out defective.
I wasn’t clear on when his started did it start right after the radio install? if so take out every inch of the new radio wiring and recheck it, but for a radio to draw a battery dead in 2 days it would almost have to be tuned on, the only way that could be done at the point of install is somehow sending power to the "power antenna lead" on the radio this should be taped off and not used.
if the problem was there before the radio then check the whole system for a draw, the old school down and dirty way is to take a 12v test light the kind that uses a "dome light" style bulb, not LEDs and disconnect the positive battery terminal and with the ignition off connect the clip end of the test light to the battery and the pointy end to the cable, some tape may be required, if the bulb comes on there is a draw the brighter the bulb the bigger the draw so it may be on very dim.
now in that car there are only a few circuits connect the constant on side of the fuse box meaning they have power when the ignition is turned off, and they are the only ones we need to look at, the radio memory, dome lights horn are a few of those, it’s not going to bet the heater for example because there is no connection when the ignition is off. Start by pulling the fuses one at time to see if this clears the draw. Then go through that circuit, but it probably won’t be that easy.
check all the components under the hood there are things connect to the battery that don’t go though the fuse box, alternator is always a good one, bad voltage regulators will charge the battery but not shut off when you turn off the engine. Some of the ignition modules disconnect these one at a time and check the draw.
you can look at that steering column check the connector it may be forced in upside down the ignition connector will only go one way but the last time I had mine apart it looked like it could be forced that way?
just remember this is going to be something that is "on" or partway on that causing this, if you have a wire " shorted to ground" it’s going to blow fuses or burn even a slight discoloration in the insulation might show that but don’t waste too much time looking for that it would be almost impossible for that to drain your battery
hope this doesn’t confuse you more that help, electrical is one of the things most mechanics don’t understand, that why I was able to make a pretty good living solving problems like this for them
Jim
 
Jim, Thank you... I wont take the time to comment on all this but one i should, I have been working on this almost 7 years the body paint interior, ect.... I cant honestly answer you if this was before or after the radio install. I put this in myself and even being careful to do it correctly you can screw things up so im not exempt but im thinking it was there (problem) when i got the car, Who ever had it seemed to love wrap around wires and electric tape from fuel pump to switches which these things are what im checking more then others now, sometimes i get off on something else i see while doing this so i repair it and get back to the other. You've givin me a lot to go on so i hope maybe i can locate the problem soon. I cannot take the car thats in the garage out so im in the outdoor garage and weather looking bad right now but ill be checking things as much as i can do being 6-5, its a big car but this stuff in wrong places to move about. thanks, this should be a great help im sure. Ill post what i find, may-be it may help someone else later.
 
I'm with Jim on the old school. Been doing it this way for years. I like the power probe, but won't own one. I work on a lot of computer controlled cars and they don't respond well if you accidently power up the wrong circuit.
 
Thanks REV, Ive always been old school with about everything but am trying new things. People around here call me old fashion, I like my coffee perked on the stove and all that so i guess that makes one "old fashion" here.. i thought i liked the taste a bit better, smell of coffee perking slow on the woodstove in the winter a terrible thing. oh well. But thanks i haven't read much about this so i guess its good to know, i just ordered a Code reader for the computer cars that ive been told are really a help.. All these things are kind of high tech for me and the code reader wont help me on my cars but the wifes is a different story, They sure charge enough to tell you why the engine, brake, and all those lights on mean. Everyone that has one tells me it will pay for itself a few times over, we will see.
 
Still at it, im finding some bad connections and one bad socket..
 
Hi, just wanted to share what I found in my car. In your initial post you said you had a dead short? was this blowing fuses? Mine was. A simple and quick way to find a short is to look at the back of your fuse block, each fuse is labeled and on the load side there may be 2-3 wires going to components on each fuse, take an ohm meter and using ohms or diode check - meter each fuse the load side for your short if you find it look at the fuse label get a wiring diagram and trace it to the component. If it is on the hot side then simple find the one of two 12 vdc power feeds that go to your fuse block and trace them out until you find were it is pinched. I found my short to ground this way in my cig lighter socket, it was loose and shorting to ground blowing fuse after fuse. well at least 3 that's all I will admit to. :)
 
Thanks Jim, Only 3 fuses blown eh... Ok your story.. lol. No fuses here blown but one and i did that when i found the bad socket in the tail light. So I am confused some on my NEW battery, 25 years ago i bought a brand new battery and short story is it wouldn't take a charge.. I bought this battery because the old one is old, and mainly cause it leaks around the + post. I put my old battery in it yesterday and found there was no little blue spark when connecting the cable anymore. This new one will take a charge and it will start the car so im not quite sure where im heading here, im checking all the things someone else put in this like the fuel pump, hooked to a toggle switch with wires only wrapped around screws, few things like this im repairing to the state it should have been in to begin with.. But with the battery what do you think? Today, Sunday, i wont be working on it and have other plans but ill be in to check to see if anyone can tell me something on the battery, it could have been just something as i described that i repaired, but very well timed if so! thanks.

To ALL here, Happy Fathers Day!!! Susan and Ron....
 
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