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Disc brakes

bigaadams

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I have read a lot of threads here and there are many folks that recommend many different kits. I also see a number of listings that mention retrofitting some A or B body discs parts back to the 1962 and the 1965 B body Dodge.

What I have is two cars that will eventually be upgraded to disc brakes. First is a 62 Polara 500 and the other is a 65 Coronet 500

Next set of information for the mix is that I have on hand two possible donor cars. On the donor parts I see information saying some require the upper control arm to go with the spindle, some say it is a direct swap. Now for the major hardware like the control arms and spindles, rotors, claipers and what not I would like to use all possible hardware from the donors to the receiver cars. I really do not want to go tubular suspension in this modification if I do not have to.


Donor 1 is a 1979 Volare
Donor 2 is a 1973 Satellite Sebring

What swaps here are possible and what year donor is best suited match to what earlier car. I know many will recommend to just buy a kit..but for giggles let just say that the delivery trucks don't run to my town. So if anyone has done this swap on either car...I would truly like to benefit from your prior knowledge and leg work if possible...

If anyone here wishes to express their thoughts off forum on this subject please feel free to drop me a PM..

Thanks
 
I got a 73-76 A body spindle, and mounted brakes from the same car, and upgraded the master cylinder to the same application for my '65 belvedere. You can use a '65 upper and lower ball joint on the 73-76 spindle. I mounted the caliper to the rear. Worked fine, but I eventually went to four piston calipers front and rear.
 
This is exactly what I am looking for and thanks so much..I know we have folks on here that have actually used these blurb sheets to do their work...and if so...was the info spot on? We getting somewhere now...thanks...
 
I read both of those articles and there were some things that I felt they left out, and things that weren't covered - such as Master Cylinder part numbers to use and such. they were helpful, but sometimes in these articles they assume you have the exact same parts they do, and we all know with Mopar you could have had a car built on Friday that differed from the one's built on Monday! lol
 
I truly feel the key is knowing what donor to start with for whatever body you are intending to upgrade and snag all components from that donor to the receiver body...as the factory did match the components when built...they hopefully will work when transferred with the exception being the rear brakes as most folks keep the better 8 3/4 axle. This is when the proportioning valve comes into play and the eventual process of adjusting it for balance. There are always going to be a few variables left uncovered and encountered along the process of most all upgrades.....incidentals that need purchased to make this happen is to be expected to some degree. For this purpose, I like others here, may also have donors and receiver cars on hand/available to them. Most I think would want to make the best use of all parts before sending the hulks to the scrapper...

It is for this reason I am hoping that the people who may have read these very same article and used them as a guideline will comment on their experience and manner in which they may have solved any issues.

I do hope to see continued responses here pertaining to retrofitting.
 
I grabbed a 76 Volare and robbed the spindles, calipers and proportioning valve it was a straight bolt in to my 62 Plymouth Fury
 
and did you snag and use the master setup with that? did you go with or without booster? Thanks
 
I went and bought a new manual brake cylinder, but I made a spacer for the cylinder because the rod was too long and put the pedal way up under the dash. try to get pics this weekend
 
This is exactly what I am looking for and thanks so much..I know we have folks on here that have actually used these blurb sheets to do their work...and if so...was the info spot on? We getting somewhere now...thanks...

I am currently working on making the upgrade on my '67. I haven't been able to verify all of this info, but have been using it as a start. It did sway me away from using the A Body spindles. I don't want to affect the stock handling performance by making it worse. I was going to buy one of those kits off of eBay, but after reading several personal accounts of parts failures and parts fitment issues, I'm going to piece together my own. The only subject matter I'm having trouble with are the Booster & M/C. I want to drive with my son, so I want to use the bendix dual diaphragm booster, whatever M/C I finally determine is the correct spec, and 11" drums in the back w/ semi metallic pads.
 
Don't forget, the pushrod on the MC can be adjusted if it has a nut on the end (MC end of it). I had to adjust mine a little, you don't want it touching the piston, but it should be close.

- - - Updated - - -


I have seen both sides of this argument on the spindles, and a friend who is a mechanical engineer and restoration specialist told me that they have used the R/M spindles without any alignment issues. He said that they are taller and would technically pose a problem with the alignment at full compression, but it's only affecting the inside wheel - which means the suspension wouldn't be fully compressed because the inside wheel would be lifting, not compressing.

DISCLAIMER: bottom line, the A-body works without issue, so use your own judgment, the above is what a guy who restores show quality 62-65 B body Mopars told me, and he does have a degree in mechanical engineering, so I trust his opinion.
 
Another note- If you use the "slider" calipers, ceramic pads are available!
 
Personally, I wanted something a lot lighter.

I used the stock drum spindles and bolted on a set of Wilwood Pro Street brakes up front and used an AREngineering adapter and truck master cylinder. Dropped a ton of weight (aluminum hubs) and they stop great. Less than $750 in the whole setup.


I've also done the Viper (brembo) calipers and 11.75 cop rotors on a drum spindle. It's all on what end use you have in mind. AREngineering makes great parts for different applications.
 
This is hard to write so as not to upset anyone...last of my wishes..and if I have offended, I apologize. Most are aware of the many packaged kits available from various suppliers/e-bay, lets try to keep this thread on track using Mopar A - B retrofit parts to the earlier cars. Not because of cheaper, question of better etc...just because its using readily available wrecking yard DIY retrofit venture. Would like to keep aftermarket brackets, and third party assemblies out of the mix. Granted Dodge Viper is Mopar..but those are not common wrecking yard items..Thanks...
 
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This is hard to write so as not to upset anyone...last of my wishes..and if I have offended, I apologize. Most are aware of the many packaged kits available from various suppliers/e-bay, lets try to keep this thread on track using Mopar A - B retrofit parts to the earlier cars. Not because of cheaper, question of better etc...just because its using readily available wrecking yard DIY retrofit venture. Would like to keep aftermarket brackets, and third party assemblies out of the mix. Granted Dodge Viper is Mopar..but those are not common wrecking yard items..Thanks...

I don't think that's offensive at all, when I did mine, I was also on a budget and couldn't afford to go with name brand kits. I also wanted to try out the "factory" style disc brakes with Mopar parts.
 
Here's a good Mopar mag disc brake conversion article:

http://www.moparaction.com/tech/archive/disc-main.html


l_mopar_wheel_kit.jpg

All the kits are is the same '73-'76 A body parts, except all new parts.

http://www.mattsclassicbowties.com/contents/en-us/d1638.html
 
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