Engine swap ideas

[xRickyBobbyx]

I searched but couldn't find a thread where this is discussed. Sorry if I missed it.

I just bought a 1969 Coronet 440 4 dr with a 318. Im thinking of going a few different ways and would like some input on what you guys think. I won't be doing any racing (strip or track). I want to have a nice reliable weekend cruiser with decent power. I already plan on updating the whole suspension and going with a coil over kit. That opens the door for dropping anything I want in. Here are my thoughts.

Rebuild my current 318. It'll be inexpensive. And from what I've heard, can get close to 400hp. But it's more of a high revving engine.

Get a 360. Also inexpensive. More hp and low end torque.

5.7 or 6.1. Both bolt to the 727. More than enough power. Further electronic upgrades possible (i.e. abs).

If you can give me your thoughts, or other suggestions I'd appreciate it.

 

[Gus chiggins]

They have stroker kits for the 318. The gen 3 hemi swap is good, but can get pricey.

 

[xRickyBobbyx]

They have stroker kits for the 318. The gen 3 hemi swap is good, but can get pricey.

What type of power could I expect from a stroker kit?

 

[Gus chiggins]

What type of power could I expect from a stroker kit?

Not sure, you might have to do some research.

 

[Sam69sat]

Don't forget 360 magnum swaps where you take a modern 360 magnum out of a 90s's early 2000's durango, ram truck, etc. Magnum Engine Swaps

 

[slepr1]

Rebuild my current 318. It'll be inexpensive. And from what I've heard, can get close to 400hp.

You'd need to put allot of money into a 318 to get 400hp. A stock 440 doesn't even produce 400hp.
Coil overs are a bad idea imo. Tortion bars are far more a comfortable ride than coil overs.
You engine needs all depends on your budget. You start getting into big dollars when you want to increase power.
If you have a good budget ($10k++) with allot of elbow grease you could go from your small block to a rebuilt big block and now you are going to be closer to 400hp with everything needed to support that increase in hp.

Imo, stay with the stock 318 or upgrade to a 360. A stock 318 produces 230hp, a 360 produces 255hp. If you can get a 340 then its 275hp. If you stay with the small blocks you can use your stock k-member.

I started with a 318 in my Cordoba. I upgraded to a stock 360. Underwhelmed with that I added a 4 barrel Holley, intake and dual exhaust. Its better but I wanted more, so in goes a 440 (stock 375hp). After many upgrades, time and money I'm at 500hp. I guess it all depends on your budget and wants.

 

[Gus chiggins]

You'd need to put allot of money into a 318 to get 400hp. A stock 440 doesn't even produce 400hp.
Coil overs are a bad idea imo. Tortion bars are far more a comfortable ride than coil overs.
You engine needs all depends on your budget. You start getting into big dollars when you want to increase power.
If you have a good budget ($10k++) with allot of elbow grease you could go from your small block to a rebuilt big block and now you are going to be closer to 400hp with everything needed to support that increase in hp.

Imo, stay with the stock 318 or upgrade to a 360. A stock 318 produces 230hp, a 360 produces 255hp. If you can get a 340 then its 275hp. If you stay with the small blocks you can use your stock k-member.

I started with a 318 in my Cordoba. I upgraded to a stock 360. Underwhelmed with that I added a 4 barrel Holley, intake and dual exhaust. Its better but I wanted more, so in goes a 440 (stock 375hp). After many upgrades, time and money I'm at 500hp. I guess it all depends on your budget and wants.

K member is for small, and big blocks, except for hemi, and slant six

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Turbo slant 6!

 

[sam dupont]

The 318 gets good fuel economy, is powerful enough to cruise at at any speed limit and get you all the speeding tickets you want. At one time, Chrysler said it was their best warranty motor, so it is dependable. Unless it has a miss or burns though oil, I would enjoy it for what it is, and drive it rather than work on it.

...or to echo cheapsunglasses, Turbo 318

 

[Gus chiggins]

The 318 gets good fuel economy, is powerful enough to cruise at at any speed limit and get you all the speeding tickets you want. At one time, Chrysler said it was their best warranty motor, so it is dependable. Unless it has a miss or burns though oil, I would enjoy it for what it is, and drive it rather than work on it.

...or to echo cheapsunglasses, Turbo 318

318's are good motors. A set of good heads, intake manifold, cam will wake them up nicely

 

[Purepony]

Stock 318 is more than plenty especially for a four door.

I never understood the need for 400-600 hp on a street car ?

My vote would be Stay as stock as possible or depending on money and time (I don’t know maybe your a millionaire who owns a custom shop or a 16 year old who got his first car) you could end up working on a car that doesn’t drive for the next 5-10 years

Any running car beats a money loaded paperweight.

 

[Kern Dog]

I see this frequently....A guy buys an old Mopar and says that he intends to swap in some aftermarket front suspension kit in it.
These guys rarely seem to have thought it through. They often think that if it is NEW, it must be better. Their old car is all over the road, the tires squeal when turning and since it needs to be rebuilt, why spend the money on restoring old technology?
Here is why:
When the car is rebuilt to mostly stock specs and aligned to modern standards, the ride and handling are amazing. Mopars had better geometry and durability than most other American cars of the same era. The Mopar torsion bar suspension is designed for these unibody cars to keep the weight low and toward the rear. Coil over kits move weight forward and up. Their manufacturers brag about weight savings but the comparison isn't apples to apples. They weigh a power steering equipped stock setup to a manual rack and pinion coil over setup. Of course their kit weighs less. Try comparing your stuff to a manual steering car and the weights are not that different. The coil over kits do have better exhaust clearance but so what? TTI and Doug's make headers to fit any chassis anyway. The coil over kits are not as durable. The suspension travel is less than stock. The turning radius is often wider than a stock torsion bar car. The coil over kits often cost upwards of $4,000. A stock rebuild can cost half of that and provide a great ride, durability and handling while saving a bunch of money.
If they were better, I'd be happy to endorse their use. I'm not married to everything that Mopar did. I support aftermarket brakes and transmissions in the classics because they do provide actual improvements over stock stuff.
I run larger torsion bars in my cars along with big sway bars and good shocks. I also went with the improved Borgeson steering box in my red car. The car drives and rides quite well.

 

[Gus chiggins]

Stock 318 is more than plenty especially for a four door.

I never understood the need for 400-600 hp on a street car ?

My vote would be Stay as stock as possible or depending on money and time (I don’t know maybe your a millionaire who owns a custom shop or a 16 year old who got his first car) you could end up working on a car that doesn’t drive for the next 5-10 years

Any running car beats a money loaded paperweight.

Stock 318 is more than plenty especially for a four door.

I never understood the need for 400-600 hp on a street car ?

My vote would be Stay as stock as possible or depending on money and time (I don’t know maybe your a millionaire who owns a custom shop or a 16 year old who got his first car) you could end up working on a car that doesn’t drive for the next 5-10 years

Any running car beats a money loaded paperweight.

Funny, i have a 383 in my 4 door 67 belvedere. This is America, and if people want to run 400 to 600 horsepower so be it. No worries I'll stay off your lawn

 

[CTMopar]

I am not a fan of modern drive lines in classic cars. To me that takes away the nostalgia of having a classic. I have had modern Chargers and Challengers and enjoyed them but would never want that driveline in an old car. Those cars are an automatic skip for me at car shows and cruise nights. If it’s a running, driving car, I would upgrade the exhaust to get a nice rumble and see if that gives you all you need. If you aren’t racing who will know if it’s 230 or 400 hp?

 

[Gus chiggins]

I see this frequently....A guy buys an old Mopar and says that he intends to swap in some aftermarket front suspension kit in it.
These guys rarely seem to have thought it through. They often think that if it is NEW, it must be better. Their old car is all over the road, the tires squeal when turning and since it needs to be rebuilt, why spend the money on restoring old technology?
Here is why:
When the car is rebuilt to mostly stock specs and aligned to modern standards, the ride and handling are amazing. Mopars had better geometry and durability than most other American cars of the same era. The Mopar torsion bar suspension is designed for these unibody cars to keep the weight low and toward the rear. Coil over kits move weight forward and up. Their manufacturers brag about weight savings but the comparison isn't apples to apples. They weigh a power steering equipped stock setup to a manual rack and pinion coil over setup. Of course their kit weighs less. Try comparing your stuff to a manual steering car and the weights are not that different. The coil over kits do have better exhaust clearance but so what? TTI and Doug's make headers to fit any chassis anyway. The coil over kits are not as durable. The suspension travel is less than stock. The turning radius is often wider than a stock torsion bar car. The coil over kits often cost upwards of $4,000. A stock rebuild can cost half of that and provide a great ride, durability and handling while saving a bunch of money.
If they were better, I'd be happy to endorse their use. I'm not married to everything that Mopar did. I support aftermarket brakes and transmissions in the classics because they do provide actual improvements over stock stuff.
I run larger torsion bars in my cars along with big sway bars and good shocks. I also went with the improved Borgeson steering box in my red car. The car drives and rides quite well.

View attachment 1343165

The only aftermarket parts i used are qa1 upper/lower control arms. I installed HP manifolds (383), my car is a 67 b body, but the manifolds are 68 castings. The people at accurate exhaust told me just order the 1968 b body exhaust system. It all bolted together without a hitch.

 

[Gus chiggins]

I am not a fan of modern drive lines in classic cars. To me that takes away the nostalgia of having a classic. I have had modern Chargers and Challengers and enjoyed them but would never want that driveline in an old car. Those cars are an automatic skip for me at car shows and cruise nights. If it’s a running, driving car, I would upgrade the exhaust to get a nice rumble and see if that gives you all you need. If you aren’t racing who will know if it’s 230 or 400 hp?

I hear stuff all the time about four door cars, i ignore those people. What's good about having a car like mine is you don't have to worry about snob know it all purists picking on a gtx, roadrunner, etc for having the wrong color paint on a hood spring. One day i will own a 1970 dodge coronet 4 door with either a stroked 383, or 440, it will have the cop car vibe to it. Black, or the modern mopar granite clearcoat, black cop car wheels dog dish h caps. Life is good.

 

[Gus chiggins]

I searched but couldn't find a thread where this is discussed. Sorry if I missed it.

I just bought a 1969 Coronet 440 4 dr with a 318. Im thinking of going a few different ways and would like some input on what you guys think. I won't be doing any racing (strip or track). I want to have a nice reliable weekend cruiser with decent power. I already plan on updating the whole suspension and going with a coil over kit. That opens the door for dropping anything I want in. Here are my thoughts.

Rebuild my current 318. It'll be inexpensive. And from what I've heard, can get close to 400hp. But it's more of a high revving engine.

Get a 360. Also inexpensive. More hp and low end torque.

5.7 or 6.1. Both bolt to the 727. More than enough power. Further electronic upgrades possible (i.e. abs).

If you can give me your thoughts, or other suggestions I'd appreciate it.

Don't be ashamed of having a four door car. I saw a 72 dodge polara 4 door with a 440, and it was black with black steelies with dog dish h caps. It looked sinister.

 

[Purepony]

Funny, i have a 383 in my 4 door 67 belvedere. This is America, and if people want to run 400 to 600 horsepower so be it. No worries I'll stay off your lawn

Lol sure no worries man.

This is America But that doesn’t mean everyone has some common sense.

You are forgetting that the car is also a four door and it’s his car so you and him can do whatever you want, it’s your money but I’ve been on this hobby long enough to know that most of what he sinks in he won’t get back.

Anyway it’s just a discussion and I can agree to disagree

 

[Purepony]

I see this frequently....A guy buys an old Mopar and says that he intends to swap in some aftermarket front suspension kit in it.
These guys rarely seem to have thought it through. They often think that if it is NEW, it must be better. Their old car is all over the road, the tires squeal when turning and since it needs to be rebuilt, why spend the money on restoring old technology?
Here is why:
When the car is rebuilt to mostly stock specs and aligned to modern standards, the ride and handling are amazing. Mopars had better geometry and durability than most other American cars of the same era. The Mopar torsion bar suspension is designed for these unibody cars to keep the weight low and toward the rear. Coil over kits move weight forward and up. Their manufacturers brag about weight savings but the comparison isn't apples to apples. They weigh a power steering equipped stock setup to a manual rack and pinion coil over setup. Of course their kit weighs less. Try comparing your stuff to a manual steering car and the weights are not that different. The coil over kits do have better exhaust clearance but so what? TTI and Doug's make headers to fit any chassis anyway. The coil over kits are not as durable. The suspension travel is less than stock. The turning radius is often wider than a stock torsion bar car. The coil over kits often cost upwards of $4,000. A stock rebuild can cost half of that and provide a great ride, durability and handling while saving a bunch of money.
If they were better, I'd be happy to endorse their use. I'm not married to everything that Mopar did. I support aftermarket brakes and transmissions in the classics because they do provide actual improvements over stock stuff.
I run larger torsion bars in my cars along with big sway bars and good shocks. I also went with the improved Borgeson steering box in my red car. The car drives and rides quite well.

View attachment 1343165

Well said but one thing you forgot to add. Your charger Drives and rides quite well but look magnificent while doing it!

 

[sam dupont]

Saw a 4 door 64 Fury yesterday. Not a scratch on it and in original paint. Fine looking car I would be proud to drive.