Even more electrical questions

[66plysat]

I've been fighting my electrical problems for a couple of weeks now. I removed the dash when the car (66 Satellite) was painted. I labeled the connections and put them all back together. I will list the problems.
1. No dashlights
2. 1st fuse (accessories) slot on fuse block has no power. All other fuses have power
3. Horn worked a couple days ago. I tried to remove the horn ring to check the connections in the steering column and couldn't remove the horn ring. Now the horn doesn't work.
4. I've read about the headlight switch causing problems with the electrical when the switch is bad so I replaced it with a new switch, didn't solve any of my issues.
5. New headlight switch and old one has a folding terminal on the case. I have nothing that connects to it. could it be for a ground wire. (1st & 2nd picture)
6. I have this under dash connector that I cannot figure where it connects (3rd picture)
I have other electrical issues but I'd like to solve these so I can permanently reinstall the dash.

 

[Jerry Hall]

#2, turn the ignition switch to accessory position and then check for power on that fuse.
Download the wiring diagram and find a purple wire and see where all it goes. It looks familiar but I just can't remember right now.
Clean and check grounds everywhere.

 

[JimCoronette]

Make sure the fuse holder clip is making contact with the fuse, check with a meter.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Also your Dimmer switch can cause issues. Check that connection and condition.

 

[Don Frelier]

Violet with a trace appears to be power to reverse light switch, schematic shows it comes from the wiper switch (which is weird).

 

[Moparnocar]

Make sure the fuse holder clip is making contact with the fuse, check with a meter.

This: you can have 12v, but it won't carry the load (amps) clean sockets

 

[66plysat]

Here's another question, when I check the circuit boards on the dash with a probe, the light flashes. What does that mean?

 

[Jerry Hall]

Here's another question, when I check the circuit boards on the dash with a probe, the light flashes. What does that mean?

What do you have the probe hooked to battery or ground? Your supplying one or the other to complete a circuit to light the light.

 

[66plysat]

What do you have the probe hooked to battery or ground? Your supplying one or the other to complete a circuit to light the light.

The alligator clip is attached to a ground and I touch the point of the probe to the powered threaded screws/nuts that are on the circuit board. When touched with the point of the probe, the probes light flashes.

 

[70chall440]

Either it is a function of the tool (meaning it is supposed to do that) or you have an intermittent connection.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Or you could be getting 5 volt pulses from the voltage regulator on the rear of the cluster. The only things that work off the 5 volts are the Fuel gauge and the water temp. Other than that its all 12 volt. Threaded bolts and nuts on the back of the cluster would indicate that you were testing the fuel gauge or temp gauge. The only other threaded gauge is the ammeter.. The Ammeter might pulse if its going through the voltage regulator under the hood. I haven't looked at that part of the schematic. But do look at the way the ammeter is ran through the harness.

I just looked at the schematic..

The red from the ammeter ends up going to the starter.
The Black wire has a multi wire junction in the harness. But if you follow it into the engine compartment it ends up going to the alternator. So you could see a pulse from the alternator if the car is running while testing.

At the multiwire splice you have a red wire that comes from that junction and goes to the ignition switch. And a black with a white tracer that goes to the headlight switch.

 

[66plysat]

Or you could be getting 5 volt pulses from the voltage regulator on the rear of the cluster. The only things that work off the 5 volts are the Fuel gauge and the water temp. Other than that its all 12 volt. Threaded bolts and nuts on the back of the cluster would indicate that you were testing the fuel gauge or temp gauge. The only other threaded gauge is the ammeter.. The Ammeter might pulse if its going through the voltage regulator under the hood. I haven't looked at that part of the schematic. But do look at the way the ammeter is ran through the harness.

I just looked at the schematic..

The red from the ammeter ends up going to the starter.
The Black wire has a multi wire junction in the harness. But if you follow it into the engine compartment it ends up going to the alternator. So you could see a pulse from the alternator if the car is running while testing.

At the multiwire splice you have a red wire that comes from that junction and goes to the ignition switch. And a black with a white tracer that goes to the headlight switch.

 

[66plysat]

Thanks Beep, I finally figured out what the flashing light was from and you just confirmed it. I knew I could rely on FBBO for help. Looks like my only issue now is a lack of instrument dash lights. I'll be troubleshooting that today.

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Check all the bulbs and the circuit on the board. If I am thinking correctly its an orange wire on the harness that plugs into the cluster. Should have 12 volts.

Here is the wiring schematic for the cluster. Follow the orange wire.. It goes to the radio. Check there for 12 volts.

 

[66plysat]

First of all, thanks to all the FBBO people who gave me guidance with my electrical issues. I finally found out what the issue was....new Chinese made crappy sockets for the dash bulbs. I ordered new sockets to replace the missing one. I installed all the new sockets in the dash, nothing worked. After two weeks of tracing the wires with a probe, replacing the light switch and adding grounds, I reinstalled the old sockets and the lights lit. I even installed the led bulbs that I bought months ago to brighten my dash and they worked. I feel like I hit the lottery. Miracles do happen, thanks again!