Has anyone compared the top aluminum radiators for Mopars?

[themechanic]

Aluminum replacement radiators are made by a handful of companies ranging in price from around $250 to $1500. Top brands include Griffin, Wizard, Cold-Case, US Radiator, Champion, etc.

Although there are a few anecdotal stories about radiator fitment and/or function, there seems to be a lack of direct comparison pointing to radiators that fit and function as they should that are affordable.

That being the case, how about a sticky thread just about aluminum radiators, ones to buy, ones to avoid and all the pros and cons of a given brand?

 

[WileE]

I have a 26" in one of my cars. Wizard. Fits on stock mounting. OE shroud fits on radiator. Most importantly, cooling with OE fan & clutch ( required smaller clutch ) functions very well, no problems.

 

[Nxcoupe]

I got mine from a company on Ebay, painted black, the tanks look just like a stock original, sans part number. It works really well and fit nicely. It was around 280 delivered if I remember correctly. I went from overheating/running hot to cool as a breeze. I will look for a link and edit this post. Comes with hardware to mount the fan shroud and correctish brackets. I plan on putting this into my Coronet from the Belvedere, since the Coronet decided to start running hot.

1966-1972 Mopar B & E Body Aluminum 26" Radiator Road Runner Challenger Cuda | eBay

It is the size of the tubes/rows that provide the best cooling. Usually at a premium price. FITS 1966-1972 B-BODYS AND E-BODYS BIG BLOCKS WITH 26" RADIATOR. BUILT IN TRANSMISSION COOLER.

www.ebay.com

 

[Jeff Peterson]

Here's one.

Cold Case vs. AutoCityClassic (the 'ebay' radiator) Compare-O

 

[j-c-c-62]

I have used Griffin's offerings from like 30? years ago, top quality, no complaints, but at the higher end price point. Last month I got a Champion, it was the lowest cost option available for a custom project/experiment. It looks ok, not as refined as the Griffin offerings, not yet installed, no regrets so far. Not sure there are measurable performance differences comparing apples to apples.

 

[Rusty knuckles]

I got mine from a company on Ebay, painted black, the tanks look just like a stock original, sans part number. It works really well and fit nicely. It was around 280 delivered if I remember correctly. I went from overheating/running hot to cool as a breeze. I will look for a link and edit this post. Comes with hardware to mount the fan shroud and correctish brackets. I plan on putting this into my Coronet from the Belvedere, since the Coronet decided to start running hot.

http://[URL]https://www.ebay.com/itm/304226187491

[/URL]

I love that at a glance this looks factory.

 

[dvw]

I used a Champion in the turbo Duster project. Except for drilling two mounting holes it bolted right in. The offer a lifetime garantee. It's been on the street 1 1/2 with no issues. They offer many different tube configurations. They even sold us a less expensive model than we selected. As the one we were going to buy was overkill. Bought their recomended fan as well. Great prices. I've used generic Northern readiators in my street and racecar. They need homemade brackets. Both are close to 30 years old with zero issue. The other street car has a direct fit Griffin, over 20 years old no issues. It was the most costly of the 4.
Doug

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Are we comparing Apples to Oranges to rotten Apples here without considering that every engine has its issues when it comes to their blocks and heads clean inner bowels, compression, spark plug choices, timing, fan types either electric or manual, shrouds, frontal grill openings, etc?

Maybe a test on a single average street 10.1 or 11.1 compression motor would answer the question even more accurately, but we all have different combos and climates to get a true answer.

 

[GTXDAN]

Here's my combination that works great. 70 GTX 440 that is .030 over, block was decked about .010, with 452 heads that were surfaced .010. Edelbrock performer plus cam #2192, with headers. Stock intake with a 750 Edelbrock and electronic ignition (hei conversion). I have the Auto City Classic aluminum rad with 2, 1.125 tube rows. Stock 7 blade fan with no clutch and stock shroud.
I drove this car just yesterday in the heat (95) just to see how it would do as I never driven it in the heat before. I have an Autometer temp gauge as the factory gauge is inop. Temp was 180 just driving around and when I stopped in traffic it climbed slowly to about 200 and cooled back down to 180 as soon as I started moving. This combination works pretty good as it is all iron with stock water pump.

 

[BMosely]

I started with a Champion 26” 3 row and it did not cut it. Wizard 2 row with the 1.25” tubes made the difference. Running fan, clutch, shroud and 2600 cfm of electric pusher fans to help with traffic heat soak and a/c performance.

 

[themechanic]

It's helpful to note if your car has AC and the smaller water pump pulley for AC. AC cars idling in 85 plus in traffic is a true test of the cooling system.

 

[themechanic]

Here's one.

Cold Case vs. AutoCityClassic (the 'ebay' radiator) Compare-O

Thanks for that link. I had forgotten that I had commented on that post 3 years ago. Getting old.

 

[6PKRTSE]

I had a custom aluminum radiator with dual electric fans built for my Challenger that I added -20 weld bungs to. With over 2-1/2 times the horsepower over stock and it runs cooler than any of my more milder cars. I had it out cruisin around yesterday all day at 90 degree outside and it ran at 167 degrees all day

 

[j-c-c-62]

It seems like your upper Rad hose does not allow much engine/motor mount movement. Is it on a motor plate or not a concen?

 

[6PKRTSE]

It seems like your upper Rad hose does not allow much engine/motor mount movement. Is it on a motor plate or not a concen?

I have a front and mid plate. It doesn't move. The hoses do still have some flexibility.

 

[threewood]

I got mine from a company on Ebay, painted black, the tanks look just like a stock original, sans part number. It works really well and fit nicely. It was around 280 delivered if I remember correctly. I went from overheating/running hot to cool as a breeze. I will look for a link and edit this post. Comes with hardware to mount the fan shroud and correctish brackets. I plan on putting this into my Coronet from the Belvedere, since the Coronet decided to start running hot.

http://[URL]https://www.ebay.com/itm/304226187491

[/URL]

That's the same brand I have in my GTX. Fit and finish are spot on. Radiator cap mount puts the ears on the cap off center. Cools fine if you keep it clean.

 

[Cojohnso1]

It's helpful to note if your car has AC and the smaller water pump pulley for AC. AC cars idling in 85 plus in traffic is a true test of the cooling system.

That is a fair test. I'm from a northern State. Thus none of our cars have air. (At least muscle street performance.) But those that live in Southern states certainly have a bigger stake.

I'll take a Southern boys opinion on topic. Lol.

 

[j-c-c-62]

"AC cars idling in 85 plus in traffic is a true test of the cooling system."

You mean before the sun comes up?

 

[Cojohnso1]

"AC cars idling in 85 plus in traffic is a true test of the cooling system."

You mean before the sun comes up?

Lol. We have a Floridian!

 

[themechanic]

Lol. We have a Floridian!

You're waay off.