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Header Valve thingy on right hand side

Morrie01

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Can anyone please yell me what the valve thingy is on the right hand side header as per in the photo.
It turns. Maybe something was attached at some stage from the original carby
I can hear an exhaust leak down there somewhere as well but not sure if its coming from this valve or not.

IMG20251209210158.jpg
 
And, it forces exhaust gases to travel up through the passages in the cylinder heads, through the intake manifold, releasing heat to speed up the vaporization of the fuel and better combustion. The shaft has bushings which wear out and leak and the antirattle spring rusts out and falls off.
Mike
 
It's kinda of an up to you thing. My one car that has stock exhaust manifolds, yes, I rebuilt mine. Other people weld them open, not for me. If you go the rebuild route, you should check your heads and intake manifold passages to make sure that they are not blocked off with carbon. They need to be open for the heat riser to operate the way it's supposed to.
 
Right that all makes sense.
The spring is long gone by the looks so the valve can just do its own thing.
I take it the spring holds the valve shut and the pressure from the exhaust gas exiting holds it open?
Leaking from it makes sense too.
Maybe time for new headers...
 
My spring is gone also, I have a piece of mechanics wire holding mine open. Warms up the choke in about 3miles/kilometers. Not perfect, but it’s still there. Cold weather driving would make totally operative a necessity.
 
Well, headers would actually make it worse, or the way it is. Not trying to discourage getting headers. Headers, aluminum cylinder heads, and aftermarket intakes do away with the heat crossover. They are just cold hearted till they get up to temperature.
 
Well, headers would actually make it worse, or the way it is. Not trying to discourage getting headers. Headers, aluminum cylinder heads, and aftermarket intakes do away with the heat crossover. They are just cold hearted till they get up to temperature.
Whats the best thing to do mate?
Get a new spring or whip the header off and recon the valve so its fully operational?
 
Just to clarify: what you speak of that you are referring to, Morrie01, is a stock exhaust manifold with the "thingy". A header is something different, regarding an exhaust system. In reading this thread, it seemed like (but I might be wrong), this went off in a different direction because of the term "header".
 
Right that all makes sense.
The spring is long gone by the looks so the valve can just do its own thing.
I take it the spring holds the valve shut and the pressure from the exhaust gas exiting holds it open?
Leaking from it makes sense too.
Maybe time for new headers...
The clock-spring is of bimetal construction, like a carb choke spring, and opens/relaxes with heat. The weight on the other end of the shaft helps balance the opening action. In the old days I sprayed Chrysler solvent/lube on the shaft/bushings at every tune-up.
Mike
 
Headers don't have a heat riser set-up. If in fact the flapper valve is intact in your manifold, it would be easy to add the springs to make it operable again. If it is missing and you don't drive your car in cold weather, IMO, you don't need the heat riser. I would verify if the flapper is in place and whether it is stuck shut or open and verify where the exhaust leak is and deal with it from there. It may not even be the source of the leak. It could very well be a gasket.
 
Just to clarify: what you speak of that you are referring to, Morrie01, is a stock exhaust manifold with the "thingy". A header is something different, regarding an exhaust system. In reading this thread, it seemed like (but I might be wrong), this went off in a different direction because of the term "header".
Oh right, I thought a stock exhaust manifold and a replacement header were basically the same thing except the header would'nt have the valve.
Ok yeah I dont think I want to replace with headers then as this will likely cause me more drama's. I think even taking the stock manifold off might be hard too as I would imagine the bolts will be seized.
The best thing would be just to leave the valve as it is but it sounds as though its leaking so not sure what to do. And the spring is gone.
 
The recondition kits are available if you go that way. The whole assy was in the kit that I bought.
 
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