RM23M9A
Well-Known Member
Especially Classic Industries Dimmer Switches, NEVER again- ;-)
Headlight switche don’t work, headlight switch and dimmer switch warm
- Thread starter Purepony
- Start date
Especially Classic Industries Dimmer Switches, NEVER again- ;-)
Purepony
Well-Known Member
What headlights are appropriate ? Is there a brand to look for ? Should I convert to a h4 bulb ?
YY1
Well-Known Member
I disconnected the harness at the bulkhead to troubleshoot mine just this past week.
That separated the circuit into two segments- one inside the cabin and one in the engine compartment, effectively letting me work on 50% of the system at a time.
Lucky for me, the problem was in the easy to work on forward harness, and not the "upside down fetal position of death" under dash harness area.
That separated the circuit into two segments- one inside the cabin and one in the engine compartment, effectively letting me work on 50% of the system at a time.
Lucky for me, the problem was in the easy to work on forward harness, and not the "upside down fetal position of death" under dash harness area.
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Gold Rush
Well-Known Member
Same practice I use to teach the your airman back when I was active duty Air Force. There are leterally hundreds of miles of wire on most aircraft. Divide and Concur is an effective troubleshooting technique.
Nacho-RT74
Well-Known Member
I don't get the disagrees on my reply.
( well one of them is not unusual latelly
)
Bad contacts casues heat, still on new switches which latelly are bad quality so these won't hold up the stock loads. That's the starting heating point, then radiates throught all the metal lines, so the bad contact area is the hotter point. What´s incorrect on that ?
Just like the loosen bulkhead conections.
( well one of them is not unusual latelly
)Bad contacts casues heat, still on new switches which latelly are bad quality so these won't hold up the stock loads. That's the starting heating point, then radiates throught all the metal lines, so the bad contact area is the hotter point. What´s incorrect on that ?
Just like the loosen bulkhead conections.
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Stock wiring, 50+ years down the road? Even the stock Incandescent tungsten bulbs (4-10amp potential total) suffered from connection resistance/heat build-up over time. Not sure you can get the original bulbs anyway, reasonable. Stock or not, do the relays, if the ammeter is present, make the load connection at the alternator stud. Any headlamps will benefit from relays. If you have any electrical skills at all, don’t need to buy a kit. Can be put together with a small investment.
What would I recommend? I run Hella E-spec H-4 and H-1s. On high beams total of 540 watts (40 amps) through the bulbs and 300ma (relays primaries current draw) through the stock lighting switching and wiring. For various reasons, not a fan of the current LED offerings for these old cars.
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Crackedback
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Doing it yourself to install relays is fine. If you have the correct crimpers and how much you value your time to do it, get after it.
Same trade off with many items we all put in our cars. What's my time worth versus doing it myself.
Same trade off with many items we all put in our cars. What's my time worth versus doing it myself.
Purepony
Well-Known Member
Do you have a part number for this system ?
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A part number for this system? Not a kit with a single part number. Here are the lamps I use for the four lamp systems, including upsized bulbs.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-002850811
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-002425831
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-h1-100wtb
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hla-h4-100-80wsb
Other components source individually.
And I agree, if you don’t have the skill level necessary or the correct tools for this kind of electrical work, better off to buy a pre-made relay kit.
siroadrnr
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Hey, I'd like to reach you to order a headlight harness, but your box is full, plus i have a question about "ammeter delete"...email [email protected]
Crackedback
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@siroadrnr Sent an Email.
I'm also trying to get in touch to order something. I'm at [email protected] if that is easier.
gtx6970
Well-Known Member
Ive been dealing with a similar issue. On my coronet.
After driving a while all my lights go out.
. Seems to be worst after i flip it to high beams for a while
My switch gets warm. And i ckd it against the temp of the switch in my Satellite and they are about the same. And i have zero issues with that car.
I put a new head light switch in it and so far so good
After driving a while all my lights go out.
. Seems to be worst after i flip it to high beams for a while
My switch gets warm. And i ckd it against the temp of the switch in my Satellite and they are about the same. And i have zero issues with that car.
I put a new head light switch in it and so far so good
Purepony
Well-Known Member
That’s probably going to be a temp fix. I hope it isn’t but most likely
Magen I replaced the dimmer it stopped heating up then a few months later the connections are melted again, I just caved in and bought a headlight kit relay that I haven’t installed yet but will this month coming up
gtx6970
Well-Known Member
Might be.
Ive already done the wipe / cleanup on the bulkhead connector. Also.... Removed and cleaned the lamp ground on the radiator support
But after leaving the lights on in both the Coronet and Satellite for near the same time frame. ( Keep in mind....on Both cars I just have simple sealed beams in them. )
And on both cars the head light switches felt about the same temperature.
And i have ZERO issues with the Satellite.
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