I think you’re definitely right about the yellow being oil pressure sender. It has aftermarket gauges. So that explains one. I’m pretty sure it’s yellow. But, it’s discolored and old. So it may have turned yellow perhaps.
I wish I had a good colored schematic. The one in the manual stinks being it’s black and white. I have a convertible and for the life of me, I can’t get the rear courtesy lights to work. I’ve had the panels off, changed and fiddled around with bulb sockets. They are clean. To no avail. I wonder what the green wire is supposed to ground, as you say. Thank you, greatly
I ll have to check bulb number. It matched end wise.What bulbs are you using in the courtesy lights? They take an odd bulb with both terminals on the bottom, the brass base doesn't serve an electrical function at all.... May times someone puts a more conventional bulb in those sockets with acts as either an open or a dead short depending on how lucky you are...
I thought it was alternator, must go to the original gauge. Those must be the two wires someone disconnected when installing aftermarket gauges. Now that I have a better speedometer and everything works on it. I can see if that gauge works too. I prefer aftermarket gauges. But, it’s nice to know what works and what doesn’t. Thank you, you guys are a good bunch on hereYellow is for the oil pressure switch; dark green apparently goes to the alternator:
http://www.mymopar.com/downloads/1969/69CoronetB.JPG
It’s not bolted to the firewall, both wires are bundled in with some other stuff on the firewall just hanging there loose. I pulled them out for a better pic. I think it is alternator. Explains exactly why those two are unconnected, aftermarket gauges. I’ll run a jumper wire in next few days to check it. I don’t think it was ever bolted to firewall. Someone hacked all of the wiring to alternator to hook up new gauges. But, I know. Eye hole connector makes that theory confusing. You may be right.If that green wire is bolted to the firewall like it looks like in your photo it has nothing to do with the alternator or gauges.....
The only green wire that typically goes to the alternator is on a 70 or newer vehicle....
I offered the link to the actual original wiring diagram to his specific car that shows otherwise.If that green wire is bolted to the firewall like it looks like in your photo it has nothing to do with the alternator or gauges.....
The only green wire that typically goes to the alternator is on a 70 or newer vehicle....
I offered the link to the actual original wiring diagram to his specific car that shows otherwise.
Of course, who knows what changes in the wiring have occurred over the last 50 years, but according to the diagram, there is indeed a green wire going to the alternator.
The purpose of the voltage regulator has nothing to do with a gauge; it is a literal name - voltage regulator.Is the voltage regulator only needed when using the original gauge ? I ll have to take a look at how mine is wired. There’s a new one on the firewall, so this kind of adds to the confusion that it’s not hooked up. It’s definitely a alternator wire. Same exact dark green and gauge thickness.
That’s why I would never go into the renting business of any kind. Yep, that’s what happened to me. Raw fuel that was finally ignited when I eventually connected the green wire. No kidding, it’s been about 20 hrs and my left ear still hurts.That is some funny ****. The backfire was probably raw fuel igniting in the exhaust system.
I knew this one guy years ago....The type of guy that was fun to hang out with but was always doing stupid ****. One time he rented a big U-Haul truck when he moved from Reno to Sacramento. He liked to floor the gas pedal and turn the ignition key OFF for a few seconds, then turn it back on. It made some obnoxiously L O U D backfires....THEN blew the muffler wide open. He coasted it into the rental lot and turned in the keys quickly...