Just found this Hemi swap forum - My Hemi Swap 68

TTSaleen

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:05 AM
Joined
Dec 7, 2021
Messages
69
Reaction score
119
Location
Angier, NC
Feb_17_2022.jpg



New vid -
1st real world driving experience to work and taking my daughter to school.

 

TTSaleen

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:05 AM
Joined
Dec 7, 2021
Messages
69
Reaction score
119
Location
Angier, NC
Principal at our elementary school digs my black 68 :thumbsup:
Ha. That is cool. My kid's principal stands at the end of the car pool line every day, you can see me wave to him in the vid once she gets in the car. I think he remembers me easily as I always show up in some kind of vehicle that stands out amongst the Prius/Mini-van crowd. LOL!
Ryan
 

TTSaleen

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:05 AM
Joined
Dec 7, 2021
Messages
69
Reaction score
119
Location
Angier, NC
New vid of my broken DBW gas pedal and 1st fill up of E85 at gas pump.

 

TTSaleen

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:05 AM
Joined
Dec 7, 2021
Messages
69
Reaction score
119
Location
Angier, NC
Quick check in.
Car is doing great and running fantastic on E85! Love it!

Now it's getting warmer here and I need to fix the AC cooling system.
I have the G3 Hemi AC compressor that came out of the 2006 Charger on the engine now. I also have the condensor. However I need to make up new lines, get a new dryer, and figure out what else I need to convert to R134.

Have any of you made your own AC lines? Do you have a recommendation on the lines, fittings, dryer, etc that I would need to buy to make this myself?
I can buy freon and have access to the professional gauges and a vacuum pump to get this thing filled, but I need a way to get started on making the lines and any other parts.

Thanks for any advice!
Ryan
 

It’s just me

FBBO Gold Member
FBBO Gold Member
Local time
6:05 AM
Joined
Nov 26, 2021
Messages
42
Reaction score
26
Location
TN
For custom lines I’ve always just gone to the local hose and tube shop. They just charge for the hose and fittings, not the assembly. It’s not worth it for me to buy the tools to crimp the ends. Most the O’Reillys here in TN can do it too.
 

furious70

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:05 AM
Joined
Jun 30, 2020
Messages
880
Reaction score
499
Location
Chicagoland
Bought diy kit from bouchilion performance and had a local hydraulic hose shop crimp. Make sure you clock and mark the fittings
 

rolling_Thunder

Well-Known Member
Local time
4:05 AM
Joined
Jul 19, 2008
Messages
801
Reaction score
358
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Quick check in.
Have any of you made your own AC lines? Do you have a recommendation on the lines, fittings, dryer, etc that I would need to buy to make this myself?
I can buy freon and have access to the professional gauges and a vacuum pump to get this thing filled, but I need a way to get started on making the lines and any other parts.
Ryan

As others have stated - I went to Classic Auto Air and got an assortment of lines/fittings but I also scored a hydraulic line crimping tool for like $40 so I just crimp my own --- slightly more work than taking it to a hydraulic shop but it's more than paid for itself
 

TTSaleen

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:05 AM
Joined
Dec 7, 2021
Messages
69
Reaction score
119
Location
Angier, NC
As others have stated - I went to Classic Auto Air and got an assortment of lines/fittings but I also scored a hydraulic line crimping tool for like $40 so I just crimp my own --- slightly more work than taking it to a hydraulic shop but it's more than paid for itself
Thanks. Question, what did you do for the pressure switch and wiring (if you added them)?
I have the hotwireauto wiring harness and the only wires I have are to the compressor itself. The harness has a blue trigger wire that when 12v is applied, it turns the compressor on.

I have considered buying the crimper kit so I can make my own lines, I am just unsure on the fittings and adapters needed to convert from the factory firewall connections to my newer items (2006 charger condenser and compressor and I need to pickup a new style drier).
Ryan
 

rolling_Thunder

Well-Known Member
Local time
4:05 AM
Joined
Jul 19, 2008
Messages
801
Reaction score
358
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Thanks. Question, what did you do for the pressure switch and wiring (if you added them)?
I have the hotwireauto wiring harness and the only wires I have are to the compressor itself. The harness has a blue trigger wire that when 12v is applied, it turns the compressor on.

I have considered buying the crimper kit so I can make my own lines, I am just unsure on the fittings and adapters needed to convert from the factory firewall connections to my newer items (2006 charger condenser and compressor and I need to pickup a new style drier).
Ryan

The pressure switch should just be wired between the triggering relay and the compressor - this essentially deactivates the A/C system if there is a pressure issue.

The factory firewall fittings are IIRC a 10 and a 6 or something like that. The -10 should use a normal o-ring fitting that is commonly available. The -6 is a male with an attached nut means you'll need a threaded fitting to receive it like this one

s-l1000.jpg


As for the compressor, Bouchillon Performance sells adapter blocks that bolt to your compressor and allow the use of the commonly available A/C fittings.

Available Here

If you plan on going to a full R-134a conversion remember to rebuild your factory A/C box and replace all the O-rings with R0134a compliant ones.
 

TTSaleen

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:05 AM
Joined
Dec 7, 2021
Messages
69
Reaction score
119
Location
Angier, NC
The pressure switch should just be wired between the triggering relay and the compressor - this essentially deactivates the A/C system if there is a pressure issue.

The factory firewall fittings are IIRC a 10 and a 6 or something like that. The -10 should use a normal o-ring fitting that is commonly available. The -6 is a male with an attached nut means you'll need a threaded fitting to receive it like this one

View attachment 1285158

As for the compressor, Bouchillon Performance sells adapter blocks that bolt to your compressor and allow the use of the commonly available A/C fittings.

Available Here

If you plan on going to a full R-134a conversion remember to rebuild your factory A/C box and replace all the O-rings with R0134a compliant ones.
Thanks! Got a link to that -6 male fitting with the attached nut?
I appreciate the help. I am looking to get this AC working soon as the temps here (in NC) have started to see 80's to 90's this coming week!
Ryan
 

rolling_Thunder

Well-Known Member
Local time
4:05 AM
Joined
Jul 19, 2008
Messages
801
Reaction score
358
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Thanks! Got a link to that -6 male fitting with the attached nut?
Ryan

negative brother - the factory A/C box already has the nut attached to the tube coming out of the box - so you need the fitting pictured above to connect to it. So in short the fittings are very much around and making the lines are not difficult especially when you have the crimping tool.

Beyond that, I haven't made my lines yet as I am building another Gen III for my 68
 

Sixpactogo

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:05 AM
Joined
Feb 2, 2014
Messages
1,586
Reaction score
1,412
Location
Eau Claire, WI
Thanks. Question, what did you do for the pressure switch and wiring (if you added them)?
I have the hotwireauto wiring harness and the only wires I have are to the compressor itself. The harness has a blue trigger wire that when 12v is applied, it turns the compressor on.

I have considered buying the crimper kit so I can make my own lines, I am just unsure on the fittings and adapters needed to convert from the factory firewall connections to my newer items (2006 charger condenser and compressor and I need to pickup a new style drier).
Ryan
I used the compressor that came with my 2006 6.1 on my 68 Charger. I rebuilt the heater box and had the evaporator tested. I bought a new condenser, drier and expansion valve (stock for 68 with R12) I had a shop fab the plumbing under the hood. Since you have electric fans you will need to buy a Trinary pressure switch for the drier because you need the extra contract to turn the fans on when the AC is activated. Charged it with 134 back in 2015 and it has worked perfectly since then.
 

TTSaleen

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:05 AM
Joined
Dec 7, 2021
Messages
69
Reaction score
119
Location
Angier, NC
I used the compressor that came with my 2006 6.1 on my 68 Charger. I rebuilt the heater box and had the evaporator tested. I bought a new condenser, drier and expansion valve (stock for 68 with R12) I had a shop fab the plumbing under the hood. Since you have electric fans you will need to buy a Trinary pressure switch for the drier because you need the extra contract to turn the fans on when the AC is activated. Charged it with 134 back in 2015 and it has worked perfectly since then.
Great info, thanks!
 

TTSaleen

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:05 AM
Joined
Dec 7, 2021
Messages
69
Reaction score
119
Location
Angier, NC
Few days of driving around and I have a few small bugs to work out.
NOTE - I also swapped the American Racing wheels back onto the car that came on it when I purchased it in Dec 2020.

1. If I have the AC on/running which has the inside fan blowing and turn the ignition off, the car will continue to run. It is as if the inside fan is acting as a small generator and keeping the ignition alive. It will eventually slow and turn off, or I can simply push the off button on the AC and it will shut off. What have you guys done in this situation to isolate the voltage so that it only flows to the fan but not back towards the source?
2. It appears to be heat soaking the starter in this summer heat (90 plus degrees this week) and my long tube headers. It is slow to turn over after I park it and try to restart within a few minutes, but if I let it sit for say 30 minutes it turns over fine. I already have large cables, good grounds, and a fresh battery. So I will probably heat wrap the battery cables and the starter to keep as much heat away as I can.

I took the car over to the original owner's house today to show it to him.
Sadly he was quarantined due to his grandchild giving him Covid so he could not come outside to see the car or talk to me in person. So I texted him and sent him a picture from his driveway and told him I would come back at another time to show him the car and let him drive it again!

D3CEDC25-2E76-4432-ABA8-7A36F24726B8.jpg
 

CoronetDarter

Well-Known Member
Local time
4:05 AM
Joined
Oct 13, 2013
Messages
1,766
Reaction score
2,162
Location
Lincoln, CA
What a great thread. Thanks for posting your progress, and the vendor links too.

You have a beautiful car that you can really be proud of. Hats off to you.
 

Sixpactogo

Well-Known Member
Local time
6:05 AM
Joined
Feb 2, 2014
Messages
1,586
Reaction score
1,412
Location
Eau Claire, WI
Few days of driving around and I have a few small bugs to work out.
NOTE - I also swapped the American Racing wheels back onto the car that came on it when I purchased it in Dec 2020.

1. If I have the AC on/running which has the inside fan blowing and turn the ignition off, the car will continue to run. It is as if the inside fan is acting as a small generator and keeping the ignition alive. It will eventually slow and turn off, or I can simply push the off button on the AC and it will shut off. What have you guys done in this situation to isolate the voltage so that it only flows to the fan but not back towards the source?
2. It appears to be heat soaking the starter in this summer heat (90 plus degrees this week) and my long tube headers. It is slow to turn over after I park it and try to restart within a few minutes, but if I let it sit for say 30 minutes it turns over fine. I already have large cables, good grounds, and a fresh battery. So I will probably heat wrap the battery cables and the starter to keep as much heat away as I can.

I took the car over to the original owner's house today to show it to him.
Sadly he was quarantined due to his grandchild giving him Covid so he could not come outside to see the car or talk to me in person. So I texted him and sent him a picture from his driveway and told him I would come back at another time to show him the car and let him drive it again!

View attachment 1307129
I suspect that Dakota Digital apparatus you put in to run your fans is what keeps your engine running after a shutdown. Probably needs a diode in the circuit. I would call them to see how to handle it. As for your starter issue, I would find some way to wrap it or the header since it is so close on that side. It sounds like you need some sort of heat barrier to keep the starter temp down.
I didn't have either of those issues since I have the truck transmission with the starter on the other side with much more clearance and I used the Trinary switch on my dryer for fan control when the AC is on so when I shut down the engine my fans are done along with everything else. I'm sure you will get it ironed out.
 
Top