Just purchased a '67 Coronet 440, and it's slow...

Fuel and Air Systems

  1. toolmanmike

    toolmanmike Henchman #2 Staff Member FBBO Gold Member

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    Just got a call from a buddy with a 70 Bee with a 440. It was a dog. A fuel filter took care of it. Back to smoking tires!
     
  2. R413

    R413 Well-Known Member

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    I can see you have a B engine block, 361, 383, 400 by how close the end rail bolt is to the intake. A 440 is wider than that and will have the end rail extended past the bolt.

    why is it a dog? Dozens of reasons from not getting full throttle, secondaries not opening, timing problem, distributor problem, kinked fuel line, vacuum leak, dead hole, etc. Do you have 2.76 gears with tall tires? That will make it a dog.

    Could cost $1.00 or $5000 to fix. Look it over and figure it out.

    It could be rejecting the GM carb from a 250 cubic inch engine. I’ve a Q-jet from a 472 Caddy, that might work better.

    View attachment 1128739

    438E8EE4-F31F-437B-AF36-69071535EC3F.png
     
    Last edited: Jun 23, 2021
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    • chillbill

      chillbill Active Member

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      So this is on the driver side. 246813012. Google say this is a 383.

      IMG_9040.jpeg
       
      Last edited: Jun 23, 2021
    • chillbill

      chillbill Active Member

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      The vin decoder says it's a 383. The previous owner swears it's the original engine.
      The plastic fuel filter was replaced with the metal one after the pic above. Also, the car has a new gas tank and fuel lines.
      I've cleaned the carb and will try to figure out where the leak is.
       
    • Don Frelier

      Don Frelier FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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      The first thing I would do is a compression test.
       
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      • 69 Sleeper Bee

        69 Sleeper Bee Well-Known Member

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      • diesel_lv

        diesel_lv Well-Known Member

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        So what you have is a 383 w a 75-76 400 thermoquad intake. Even if that carb is from a 4.3 GM V6, if it is tuned properly, will have excellent off the line w an automatic. So if it's a dog, the many above suggestions should be tried from least invasive to most.
         
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        • chillbill

          chillbill Active Member

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          I'll start by checking the plugs and timing. The distributor cap and rotor look to be in good shape.
          What's the proper timing for these engines? Also, what's a good source for this kind of info? Manual? Some website?
          And I guess I can change the fuel filter too and get that out of the way.
           
        • BSB67

          BSB67 Well-Known Member

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          I'm surprised at how often we're seeing posts today from folks that have recently acquired an factory original, low milage, unaltered or relatively unaltered car.

          Do you know the detailed history of the car since 1967? Was it driven 1,500 miles per year for 54 years, or was it driven 10,000 mi/year (typical for that time period) for 9 years and then stored since 1976 for 45 years?

          I started in this hobby in 1975. By 1980, I had 5 late 1960's and one 1970 Mopars. 80K at that time was considered lower than normal milage.

          Just be open to maybe it not being exactly what has been stated.

          Finally, be open to there not being anything wrong. Especially if someone has been in the motor in the last 54 years (i.e. highly likely). A 1967 B body car with a 383 2 bbl would be slower than a late model Dodge minivan.
           
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          • Don Frelier

            Don Frelier FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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            And if the cylinders read 100- 110 psi you can spend time and money on ignition and carbeuration and it will still be sloooowwww.
             
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            • diesel_lv

              diesel_lv Well-Known Member

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              I must've been extremely lucky. I inherited my '67 4dr from my Great grandmother, 383 2bbl auto. I changed it to electronic ignition and dual exhaust the week I got it in '96. It had 78k original miles, yes it had been parked and driven once a month for many yrs before I got it. But it would legit take a stock 5.0 light to light with only that done.
               
            • Durandal25

              Durandal25 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              Dump that carb, and go with an edelbrock 1406, 650 CFM unit. I have a rebuilt one if you need it. Electric choke makes for a great upgrade.
               
            • Don Frelier

              Don Frelier FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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              It's a spreadbore manifold I believe...
               
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              • Durandal25

                Durandal25 FBBO Gold Member FBBO Gold Member

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                ....offf, then no the 1406. But in truth, it would be happier with it. I've got an extra 67 cast manifold too.......heavy sucker....
                 
              • BSB67

                BSB67 Well-Known Member

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                Not lucky at all. Just not common, even 25 years ago. Today, after 54 years, is it still unmodified factory original with 78K?

                And not saying it cannot happen today
                 
                Last edited: Jun 24, 2021
              • BSB67

                BSB67 Well-Known Member

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                As you mentioned earlier, a cylinder pressure test would tell a lot.
                 
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                • diesel_lv

                  diesel_lv Well-Known Member

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                  Oh Hell No!!! I parked it the next yr w 92k. I drove it like crazy that yr. Then it sat until last June. During that time I rebuilt everything mechanical. Engine is now 496 stroker. 96k miles on it now. But it'll never be sold. Pass it down to my grand or great grandchildren. Not until the DMV refuses to give me a license anymore though.
                   
                • BSB67

                  BSB67 Well-Known Member

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                  Perfect. Use it and have fun!
                   
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                  • chillbill

                    chillbill Active Member

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                    I managed to pull only two plugs (this is harder than I expected) on the driver side and they don't look bad to me. They're cheap Autolite 85s and probably not gapped correctly.
                    Will try to pull the others over the weekend.

                    PHvCHD6mKLaPMJI3_JpTM0kV7Whh79eaGRatsHpJFmZ3LRx_hL3HsURpVajDSB_B3HLPb8OLazkw=s1892-no?authuser=0.jpg
                     
                  • chillbill

                    chillbill Active Member

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                    Speaking of gaps, I think i should check and adjust the valve clearances too.
                    What gap should it be? And again, what’s a good source for this kind of information? A shop service manual?
                     
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