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Lead or fiberglass which is best?

redman

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I am getting ready to fill these seams and was wondering what is the best way to go? I have heard pros and cons of both ways.
 

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Lead wins between the two. Metal to metal will also work fine in that C-pillar area. Seen some folks use Duraglas without issue in that area as well.

Good luck what ever route you go.
 
I'd go fibreglass. Simply for the reason that it's much easier to do.

Remember, fibreglass today, is different than fibreglass 40+ yrs ago. They leaded then because it was the best way to fill the seams. Today, not so.

If you're doing a 100 point restoration, by all means use lead.
 
I use synthetic lead, a bit safer (you can actually sand it), not quite as easy to work as real lead, but overall, I think the benefits outweigh the detractors. Its listed as a bit more tensile strength. Eastwood and a few others carry it.
 
I use All-Metal and have heard nothing but good things about it. It's hard to sand so you don't want to use more than you need, but I'd recommend it 100%
 
Lead only, don't waste your time with Fiberglass, Bondo or the new crap lead free. Go to Johnson Metal supply. 1/2 the price of Eastwood. You don't grind lead period. Map gas, a few used 1/2 round files, transmission fluid for the files to keep lead out of files and a used Cement flat and your done. Lead does not crack, it flexes and you will need to have the metal white clean.
 
Ya know, after reading all these posts, I think I'll try my hand at leading.
 
We use Duraglass for a base and then filler. All 3 of my current cars were done this way. I race all my cars. 12.5@110 stick 10years,11.0@123 auto 25 years, 9.25@147 Auto 2 years. None have cracked. All have very nice paint.
Doug
 

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I like lead used it for over 40 + yrs.
 
If applied correctly. fiberglas most likely won't crack. The problem you can and most likely will run into though , especially on a dark colored car, is that the seam will "witness" in the summer sun. This is where you can see the seam, (though you can't feel it) when the car is hot. Pull it into the garage and go look at it tomorrow and *POOF* it's gone. Plastic seems to be more problematic than glass, but this doesn't happen with lead.


And to expand on Steve's safety tips - lead is readily absorbed through the skin, so wear gloves at all times, clean up after yourself so you're tracking the **** through the house and wear a respirator.

And another source for solder is:

http://www.rotometals.com/Solder-s/25.htm
 
I would choose lead if I had the stuff and knew how to do it but I don't so I welded my roof seam solid, filled it with glass and finished it with regular filler. Maybe my next car I'll learn how to do it.
 
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I would choose lead if I had the stuff and knew how to do it but I don't so I welded my roof seam solid, filled it with glass and finished it with regular filler. Maybe my next car I'll learn how to do it.

I have welded seams solid first, before duraglass. I've duraglassed over lead. I've done pure lead. When done properly they will all work. And no, my roof seams don't "move in the sun". How straight is this car?
 
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