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Lookie what $5000 buys you....

Installing a unit like this alone really sucks but I am impatient and hard headed.

View attachment 1403414

First off, I answered my own question regarding the foam seal. It appears that once the oval duct retaining collar is removed…

View attachment 1403415View attachment 1403417

The cowl area is flat. It did have some crud to clean though.

View attachment 1403419View attachment 1403420
Muscling the heater box into place isn’t that hard IF the holes in the firewall match the studs on the box. These two did…

View attachment 1403424
…. Mainly because the right side of this patched in firewall is from a Non A/C car.
The stud at the far left end….
View attachment 1403425
I thought I had a hole in the firewall for it but I did not. At all. Again, this unit isn’t heavy but it is awkward to try to hold it, prop it up, get out and attach the nuts and tighten them.
I made a support strap from a piece of sheet metal.
View attachment 1403426
The seal fits snug.
View attachment 1403427

There isn’t a whole lot of heater nipple to grab though. View attachment 1403428
It should be enough…. I hope.
 
@FASTEDDIE1960 This isn't a for sale thread.....if you are interested in something another member has, either start a 'wanted' ad or contact the member directly. Thanks.
 
It has been awhile since I updated things but I took a few moments to tinker today.
I’m pondering what to do about this:

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The car isn’t actually going 145 mph. Of the three speedometers I had, this one had the cleanest face. Keep in mind, I have been diligent with this project to make the car functional and reliable using as few new parts as possible. Call me silly but I find that to be fun. I may have to pull the instrument panel and see if I can live the speedo mechanism. That speedo is original to this car:

9CDA32FC-10C9-4B54-AB2C-C29B5DB87CBF.jpeg


It never bounces or hopped around. It was smooth in the red car. More to come on that.
The engine won’t start with the key but starts fine by bridging the terminals on the starter relay. Often this is the relay itself but could also be the ignition switch and wiring. More on that later too.
Finally….

13E72A84-3BF7-4B90-AE16-104C211506F8.jpeg


A member asked here about a radio delete plate. I mentioned that I made one out of a warped section that normally fits over the glove box hole.

7DFA933C-B359-429B-A9E8-BD43B487B1FA.jpeg


I just took the old panel and cut it down to serve as a block off plate until I restore the interior. ZERO cost. I like that.
I finally put in the glove box liner and was ready to mount the door but…

BD5B8CAD-7951-40A3-8DD6-8A7DE215B57C.jpeg


No hinge on the glove box door.

A4D02566-36EE-46F6-BF1F-CDAE8E1570BD.jpeg


I’m sure the 1970 is one year only but these should be the same for all 1970 B bodies, right? It shouldn’t matter if it is standard or Rallye dash, right?

C7B0B585-7D19-4F76-B2A4-673ECAABDC48.jpeg
 
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Hey what tach is that? I’d like to do a dash tach, the tictok tach is too damn expensive.

Thanks
 
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