Lowering rear end - what's the proper way?

[funknut]

I currently have all stock components in the rear of my 68 Charger plus Caltracs (they were on when I bought the car, probably don't help anything, but I don't mind the look, so they stayed) and I'm looking to lower the rear 1"-2".

I've read you can flip the front spring hangers, get the Mancini hangers with 2 bolt holes, different leaf springs with a shallower arch, etc.

There are also threads that say there are negative effects to some of these modifications, like changing driveline angles.

I'm looking for the right way to do this without causing myself additional problems down the line, and I'd prefer not to buy new leaf springs unless completely necessary. This is just a street car that sees 1-3k miles per year.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Ballast?? Beer? Beer Ballast!!!

 

[Sam69sat]

Lowering blocks. No experience with them though so i don't know if there are any pitfalls.

 

[Cranky]

I would go with lowering blocks as they keep the axle pretty close to being in the same plane as it is now. Lowering the front hangers will change it more imo. Never done the hanger deal before but have done lowering blocks before and lowering 2" didn't mess with the driveshaft angle enough to feel or make a difference in u-joint wear.

 

[#41]

Aluminum lowering blocks is the easy way. I have used these on several cars. I currently have 3 inch blocks on my 60 Plymouth. 1-2" blocks should not affect your driveline angle enough to worry about, but you can always check it and add shims at the same time. Easy stuff. The only time I would not add lowering blocks is if you corner really hard like in auto cross, and even then it's probably ok at 1-2 inches and new U-bolts. I get them at Summit Racing.

 

[Cranky]

Aluminum lowering blocks is the easy way. I have used these on several cars. I currently have 3 inch blocks on my 60 Plymouth. 1-2" blocks should not affect your driveline angle enough to worry about, but you can always check it and add shims at the same time. Easy stuff. The only time I would not add lowering blocks is if you corner really hard like in auto cross, and even then it's probably ok at 1-2 inches and new U-bolts. I get them at Summit Racing.

I always drove my cars hard and nothing ever moved with 2" blocks installed. Just have to make sure the centering pin diameter is the same on the pads and springs.

 

[Timmayy]

A few years back I bought this 65 Coronet off a kid. He lowered it with blocks. Pretty simple. The only issue was if there were two people in the back seat then the tires would rub over bumps. I solved it by only allowing one person back there.

 

[RemCharger]

Should be able to get a lower rear segment for the caltrac leaf. That portion gives it the height.

 

[BMosely]

The front spring drop bracket worked well for me and then you have the option to go back up.

 

[Kern Dog]

Lowering blocks. No experience with them though so i don't know if there are any pitfalls.

The "right" way is a subjective thing....technical minded guys and engineers may suggest to remove the springs and have them flattened at a spring shop.
Me? I tried the dropped front hangers for awhile. It does change the pinion angle a bit.
I changed back to stock spring hangers and slipped in 1 inch lowering blocks. There are no bad effects from the blocks in my car.
I drive easy sometimes. Other times I have the car sideways with the tires spinning and smoking with a smile on my face. The springs don't care if there are blocks between them and the axle housing. The blocks are just fine for me.

 

[R413]

Should be able to get a lower rear segment for the caltrac leaf. That portion gives it the height.

So easy. You call cal tracs and buy the rear half of the split leaf spring That will lower your car. Super nice folks with great customer service.

 

[khryslerkid]

 

[Sam69sat]

View attachment 1534745

^^^Let this be a warning to any of you mopar youngsters who might be thinkin of going "hogging"^^^

 

[funknut]

So easy. You call cal tracs and buy the rear half of the split leaf spring That will lower your car. Super nice folks with great customer service.

Sorry, I should have been more clear. I'm running stock leafs with caltracs traction bars.

 

[funknut]

Thanks everyone for the ideas and feedback. I'll give 1-1/2" lowering blocks a try.

 

[toolmanmike]

Saggy ol' springs will do it.

 

[493 Mike]

Ballast?? Beer? Beer Ballast!!!

View attachment 1534634

I agree but, it should be in cans-no breakage!
Mike

 

[PRND21]

View attachment 1534745

Kid, I just can’t bring myself to hit ‘like’ or ‘thanks’ for a picture like that. Besides, I think that’s my neighbor’s daughter!

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Couple things I don't like about lowering blocks.... 99% are made for Chevies which means the center pin & receiving bore are 17/32... Mopar uses 1/2" or in Chevy terms 16/32 so the part that should locate the axle doesn't...

Second most aluminum blocks are cast... 20-30 years ago they were cast in a US foundry...... Guess where they are made these days? I've seen two sets fail in the last couple years...

 

[khryslerkid]

Kid, I just can’t bring myself to hit ‘like’ or ‘thanks’ for a picture like that. Besides, I think that’s my neighbor’s daughter!