Need 727 Trans pan improvement suggestions

[tallhair]

Looking for suggestions and knowledge on the BB 727. I've got some leakage and I don't know if its the pan gasket or something else but the trans is leaking fluid. It's covering the whole pan and dripping and seems to have been for a long while. The car is a 68 Coronet RT, I have no idea when the filter or pan gasket was last changed. It's been sitting w/o starting since approx 2003 so I'm thinking even if it's not leaking from the pan gasket the fluid and filter need changed and I'd like to have a easier method of changing the fluid with the drain plug on the replacement pan.

Any suggestions on an improvement in the pan?

I've read a stock 518 pan is heavier duty, stronger, etc with more capacity but this doesn't exactly look like it fits ??. As far as the drain plug I could put one in I suppose. Don't know if filter extension required.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/518-618-BOT...pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

This one has cooling vent tubes but is pricey with the filter extension


http://www.starperformanceproducts.com/Mopar-A518-A727-Turbulator-Cooling-Transmission-Pan-14110.htm

Other things I'm thinking is something like this

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...EAR=1522949&MAKE=1523433&N=1523452+4294966021

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hup-hp1580/overview/

I'm definitely open to recommendations as to what auto trans owners have done or would do and what I should be thinking about including the fact the leak may be coming from elsewhere, but I'd like to change the pan, filter and gasket anyway to improve cooling w/o putting on an external cooler unless someone has a cool setup to recommend. I've seen them zip tied to the radiator and I don't think I want that look.

If anyone has one with straight pan rails they want to sell please PM me.

 

[snakeoil24]

BUy a deep pan from Mancini that is steel, forget the aluminum. Metal is 1/2 the price. Thern put a check valve in cooling lines so drain back does not leak from trans.

 

[tallhair]

BUy a deep pan from Mancini that is steel, forget the aluminum. Metal is 1/2 the price. Thern put a check valve in cooling lines so drain back does not leak from trans.

Please tell me more about this check valve you speak of

 

[Meep-Meep]

I think having a discussion with your original pan on a flat wood bench with a hammer will straighten it out (pun intended). Yes, a deep pan will need a filter extension. And I will say that your pan in the pics appears to be deeper than stock so you must already have a filter extension??

A leak might be the dip stick tube o-ring, shift selector seal or even the kick down band pivot shaft plug. Or the pan itself as you pointed out. All you can do to pinpoint the leak is to clean the area and see if you find a fresh trail of fluid.

 

[tallhair]

BUy a deep pan from Mancini that is steel, forget the aluminum. Metal is 1/2 the price. Thern put a check valve in cooling lines so drain back does not leak from trans.

I found this mancini one for $70 + shipping still looking though. I'm reading up on check valve's in trans lines now.

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/ma727chdetrp.html

- - - Updated - - -

I think having a discussion with your original pan on a flat wood bench with a hammer will straighten it out (pun intended). Yes, a deep pan will need a filter extension. And I will say that your pan in the pics appears to be deeper than stock so you must already have a filter extension??

A leak might be the dip stick tube o-ring, shift selector seal or even the kick down band pivot shaft plug. Or the pan itself as you pointed out. All you can do to pinpoint the leak is to clean the area and see if you find a fresh trail of fluid.

Thanks for the pointers Meep. I'll get out there and wipe it down and see where it's coming from. I hope just the pan but doubt it knowing how things go. The first pan above isn't my current one mine is stock ol 727 pan. That black on is a 518 deep pan with the ribs i saw on ebag for $25 bucks.

 

[Meep-Meep]

I have a huge leak on my GTS tranny. I haven't looked into it yet because I'm not driving the car now, but at some point I will be exactly where you are - with a detective cap on!

 

[Dako]

If it is in fact the pan leaking, there is no need to buy another pan...short of it being cracked/ dented beyond repair.

Cleanliness and proper sealant cure time are key to ensuring a leak free trans pan:

1. Make sure contact surfaces are CLEAN and free of any old gasket remnants & sealants. Wiping with Brake Cleaner on a rag will provide a oil free surface once clean.
2. Ensure that the pan contact surface is relatively flat.
3. Apply a coat of Ultra Black or Ultra Gray Silicone Sealant to the pans contact surfaces, keeping it out of the support beads. Make sure you have no breaks in the sealant.
4. Lay the gasket onto the coated surface.
5. Apply a liberal coat of Ultra Black or Ultra Gray Silicone Sealant to the gasket surface that will come in contact with the transmission. Again, make sure you have no breaks in the sealant.

(These next three will make or break your efforts)

6. Clean the tranmission mating surface AGAIN with the rag and brake cleaner! Even wipe up inside a bit where you can. This will keep fliud from weeping down onto the mating surface while you get everything in place.
7. Install the pan bolts using a criss-cross pattern (like installing lug nuts) and following the bolt tightening recommendations on the tube of silicone!
8. Wait 24 hrs before adding fluid! Most leaks are a result of not giving sealants their proper cure time before subjecting them to fluid contact and component operation.

 

[67 coronet]

aluminum pans do seal better,but are expensive.one thing to check is do you have clearance for a deep pan?a slightly lowered car will smack that pan alot with normal street driving.factory pan will work fine,just check all sides with a strait edge.tap all holes with a ball peen hammer(from the trans side of the pan)use a fiber paper gasket(the black grey ones)never use a cork gasket.if you buy a chrome pan,sand down the chrome or it will just leak again.as said above,check for other leaks first,trans fluid is very good at finding small places to leak out.

 

[moweepea]

I heard on those new hard gaskets for the 727 you are not suppose to use any sealants??

 

[62MAX]

I heard on those new hard gaskets for the 727 you are not suppose to use any sealants??

That would be correct !!

 

[tallhair]

I have a huge leak on my GTS tranny. I haven't looked into it yet because I'm not driving the car now, but at some point I will be exactly where you are - with a detective cap on!

Yep that's what it feels like Meep which is not a bad thing if it goes as well as it did for Mr SF LOL

- - - Updated - - -

If it is in fact the pan leaking, there is no need to buy another pan...short of it being cracked/ dented beyond repair.

Cleanliness and proper sealant cure time are key to ensuring a leak free trans pan:

1. Make sure contact surfaces are CLEAN and free of any old gasket remnants & sealants. Wiping with Brake Cleaner on a rag will provide a oil free surface once clean.
2. Ensure that the pan contact surface is relatively flat.
3. Apply a coat of Ultra Black or Ultra Gray Silicone Sealant to the pans contact surfaces, keeping it out of the support beads. Make sure you have no breaks in the sealant.
4. Lay the gasket onto the coated surface.
5. Apply a liberal coat of Ultra Black or Ultra Gray Silicone Sealant to the gasket surface that will come in contact with the transmission. Again, make sure you have no breaks in the sealant.

(These next three will make or break your efforts)

6. Clean the tranmission mating surface AGAIN with the rag and brake cleaner! Even wipe up inside a bit where you can. This will keep fliud from weeping down onto the mating surface while you get everything in place.
7. Install the pan bolts using a criss-cross pattern (like installing lug nuts) and following the bolt tightening recommendations on the tube of silicone!
8. Wait 24 hrs before adding fluid! Most leaks are a result of not giving sealants their proper cure time before subjecting them to fluid contact and component operation.

Thanks for the detailed response Dako I've filed it for the hopefully near future ref since I ain't gonna remember it all. I'm being serious though in the thanks for the detail. I'll make sure it's clean as a whistle when the pan goes on for sure.

 

[tallhair]

aluminum pans do seal better,but are expensive.one thing to check is do you have clearance for a deep pan?a slightly lowered car will smack that pan alot with normal street driving.factory pan will work fine,just check all sides with a strait edge.tap all holes with a ball peen hammer(from the trans side of the pan)use a fiber paper gasket(the black grey ones)never use a cork gasket.if you buy a chrome pan,sand down the chrome or it will just leak again.as said above,check for other leaks first,trans fluid is very good at finding small places to leak out.

Yeah the aluminum ones are definitely more expensive. The reason I'm looking for a deep pan is the extra capacity and cooling for the trans. The reason I'm planning on a new pan is the extra fluid capacity and the drain plug for easier maintenance.

The car has the 440/Hemi suspension and has/will have 15" wheels/tires so it sits pretty high and I'll not be lowering it much anyway. It's about 13" at the rocker panel at present

- - - Updated - - -

I heard on those new hard gaskets for the 727 you are not suppose to use any sealants??

That would be correct !!

Whatcha guys talking about?

 

[tallhair]

I think having a discussion with your original pan on a flat wood bench with a hammer will straighten it out (pun intended). Yes, a deep pan will need a filter extension. And I will say that your pan in the pics appears to be deeper than stock so you must already have a filter extension??

A leak might be the dip stick tube o-ring, shift selector seal or even the kick down band pivot shaft plug. Or the pan itself as you pointed out. All you can do to pinpoint the leak is to clean the area and see if you find a fresh trail of fluid.

I'm planning to start the Engine and trans pull this weekend and will check it out real good. Found this gasket kit. Sorry for size but it's a linked image so I hope it doesn't bother mobile followers. It looks like it addresses all the possible leak areas you mentioned and is supposed to be good for sealing.

http://www.binderplanet.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116878

I heard on those new hard gaskets for the 727 you are not suppose to use any sealants??

Is this what you are talking about?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DODGE-DIESE...2-08-NEW-/200707069721?_trksid=p2054897.l4276

will it require longer bolts?

 

[okiemopar]

I have tried the hard gasket with a new pan and mine still leaks, even had it to 2 different shops and no body has stopped it yet. It has all new seals and gaskets on it. Good Luck Ronnie

 

[tallhair]

I have tried the hard gasket with a new pan and mine still leaks, even had it to 2 different shops and no body has stopped it yet. It has all new seals and gaskets on it. Good Luck Ronnie

is the hard mopar gasket in the bottom pic the one you and others are talking about?

 

[tallhair]

I bought Wedge's TCI pan and it should be here any day. I also went digging in the ole garage and pulled out the B&M street and strip trans I got 23 years ago with another 68 RT I had back then.

New thread here if interested in seeing the specs:

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...be-going-in-the-R-T&p=909960036#post909960036

 

[mrkinger]

I bought different gaskets,pans ,sealers and the SOB still leaks,i gave up and installed cardboard on the floor.Maybe i will tackle it this winter,i allso have an aluminum pan from summit

 

[tallhair]

I bought different gaskets,pans ,sealers and the SOB still leaks,i gave up and installed cardboard on the floor.Maybe i will tackle it this winter,i allso have an aluminum pan from summit

I'm having the trans gone through with all new seals and anything else it needs. I'm also going to use the new MP hard gasket with o'rings posted above. Will let you know how it goes.

As far as your trans go's like Meep said there's a bunch of places it can leak. Are you sure it's coming or only coming from the pan seal?

 

[mrkinger]

Ya i had my tranny rebiult also,had the hard gasket also,im pretty sure its leaking between the pan and tranny,but im going to recheck this winter,i replaced the shifter seal and its fine,but i will check the filler tube o ring.seems like everytime i try and fix it,it will leak in a different spot
Thanks
Paul

 

[barnfind]

Ive had the same luck with the hard gaskets (leak). I get the cork/ rubber from a transmission shop and use a thin bead of RTV. I also use the 2 ball peen hammer trick on the bolt holes on the steel pan so there convex not concave. Works great with valve covers too.