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Need an opinion!

Red63440

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I went to a garage yesterday to look at some parts. The guy had two 440 blocks sitting on what looked like the frames of old shopping carts buried behind a bunch to scrap. They look like they had been there for a long time and are pretty rusty. Its a very damp, old building and the blocks are open, not protected and as I said, very rusty. How bad does a block have to be before it can't be used? The caps are on both of them and they are on the carts upside down with one crank between the pair of them.
 
the first thing I would do is take my finger nail and scratch the cylinder walls and see if they scratch clean (no pitting )as long as there not pitted I would take a chance on them as long as there cheap like 100.00 each with crank..they should be well sesoned......Artie
 
Check to see if the blocks have been bored,standard bore blocks would be a good find these day,s
 
I agree with the above.
Also look for the same thing in the lifter bores, if they are in bad shape they can be sleeved.
 
The lifter bores might be an issue depending on how rusty they are.
 
I am pretty sure these are stock bore blocks.
 
Get them cheap if not too rusted they can be machined.
 
I just got off the phone with him and he gave them to me, along with the forged crank. No charge.....:thumbsup:
 
OK, now help me come up with a game plan for building one of these...:nike:
 
Well, the price was right. I'm with Cranky on the rust issue. Another thing to consider is the rust can hide inside the oil galleys and you would want to make darn sure those are cleaned out. I'd get some muriatic acid and carefully fill the galleys with it and use it to clean the lifter bores. Have baking soda near by to neutralize it and don't be down wind of the fumes.

What is your goal? Hot street motor for many thousand miles or track only?
 
Nothing will be done with them until spring and then it will be taken to a machine shop to be cleaned and checked to make sure they are worth the effort. Street motor built for occasional track use.
 
Cleaned, bead blasted, line bored, bored .030 to .040 over and decked. I will need pistons, rods, stroker crank, cam, heads, headers, intake and carb.
 
Well, the price was right. I'm with Cranky on the rust issue. Another thing to consider is the rust can hide inside the oil galleys and you would want to make darn sure those are cleaned out. I'd get some muriatic acid and carefully fill the galleys with it and use it to clean the lifter bores. Have baking soda near by to neutralize it and don't be down wind of the fumes.

What is your goal? Hot street motor for many thousand miles or track only?

Hot street motor.....:3gears:
 
511 stroker,indy cnc EZ heads,11 to 1cr,hydraulic roller,indy dual plane for hood clearance or single plane,main girdle.Just keep shift points below 6500 and will last a very long time.
 
511 stroker,indy cnc EZ heads,11 to 1cr,hydraulic roller,indy dual plane for hood clearance or single plane,main girdle.Just keep shift points below 6500 and will last a very long time.

What cam and what carb? Running an automatic, what size convertor and gears for street use?
 
What cam and what carb? Running an automatic, what size convertor and gears for street use?

me i would think 3:55 ratio rear with 3 spd auto or 3:90 with 4 spd auto. whatever cam used will determine the stall.
 
That depends on how hot of street car you want.How much your willing to deal with.low 11sec car or a 10second car?
 
That depends on how hot of street car you want.How much your willing to deal with.low 11sec car or a 10second car?

10's would be nice....:3gears::3gears::3gears::3gears::3gears:
 
512 stroker kit in rb block,11 to 1cr,indy EZ cnc maxwedge port eqaulized chambers at 83cc,640 lift solid roller low 260'[email protected] on in take and high
260'[email protected] on the exhaust,indy dual plane will work better for street the single plane 4150 flange will work better at track,T&D rockers or harland sharp minimum,829-16 comp roller lifters,Smith bros push rods,isky springs 9315 work well for street use and clearance issues.Make sure to get the valley tray with the access plate.You will have to service the lifters every so often.

Your car is probably 3850# use a 4.30 gear 29.5x10.0 tire or 30"tall tire,3500 converter or 91/2 about 4200rpmThat depends on the intake setup.

These are parts that I use personally and have great success with!Hope this strikes your intrest and lights the fire for ya!!!
 
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