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- Jan 29, 2018
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I'll get you that master kit # that worked for mine in the am... or possibly later tonight if the box is in the shop.
There goes an originality point.Thinking about it now, I think I'm going to order up 4 wheel cylinder kits & take one apart tomorrow. If the master cylinder looks that bad, the wheel cylinders can't be that good either.
Thinking about it now, I think I'm going to order up 4 wheel cylinder kits & take one apart tomorrow. If the master cylinder looks that bad, the wheel cylinders can't be that good either.
Hate the end covers on those wheel cylinders. Imagine they seal better than the ones slip on into a groove. Curious to see the insides of wheel cylinders.
Bet wheel cylinders are rough do'em all and be done with it. Your probably thinking the same.I cleaned up the master a bit and there's some good pitting in the bottom of the cylinder. Looks like it'll have to be sleeved.
I cleaned up the master a bit and there's some good pitting in the bottom of the cylinder. Looks like it'll have to be sleeved.
I just found something out about that unless every rubber part is changed dont go silicone fluid. One drop of dot 3 (ie in the rubber parts already) is enough too contaminate the whole system and it will drastically swell the rubber, seriously.Again, don't shortcut the brake system. Just be logical about it. It is a system and what affects one thing/part affects the rest. If the rubber lines are bad, what do you think the condition of the insides of the metal lines will be. And if you insist on using the old lines, flush every thing with new fluid BEFORE you attach the wheel cylinders or any debris in the lines will get into the new/rebuilt hydraulic components.
And to those changing to DOT 5, you need to completely flush the system with denatured Alcohol.
Need some rubber parts softened up, there you go.Like this Ray...
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