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OK, so I need to know how bad this is - broken crankcase cap

I don't get the reasoning on replacing all caps. They are all going to be face cut then reinstalled and then aligned be it with a cut or a hone however, I like finding caps that are as close as possible for the machining operation. Personally, I like em honed. Been a machinist for a long time and know what I'm talking about.....

If you can find a cap really close line hone is ok
Line bore is more costly but best for this operation
 
I have a 5 gallon pail full of caps and used to try and find matches
most nowdays are afraid of blowing their block so try and band aid with high buck caps, girdles, etc
but I tell them they can break anything (usually by a bad tune and detonation)
you have this new high buck short block- sneak up on the tune
I like a hone too but many times I do not find it necessary to hone after a fine feed line bore final cut
armature line hone jockies can really screw up your block- find a cranky in your area
 
Just make sure the one you find isn't too cranky :D
 
The guy that did the .003" out of round job was experienced....very experienced but is known for his drinking and drugs. I guess he did it on a Monday or started drinking early on Friday. :( Wasn't very happy about it and let the owner (now gone from the earth) know I wasn't too happy. It came back on the money the second time around and on spec.
 
Personally, I like em line honed just like the cylinders. Smoother bore finish. Most respectable shop will check their work. Been doing it since72. Some machinists are better than others. Your name is on that job when it leaves the shop. It don't take that much more time to do it right the 1st time.
 
Personally, I like em line honed just like the cylinders. Smoother bore finish. Most respectable shop will check their work. Been doing it since72. Some machinists are better than others. Your name is on that job when it leaves the shop. It don't take that much more time to do it right the 1st time.
How many guys check the shop's work before they assemble the engine? Very few and I disagree with you on 'most' shops check their work...even respectable ones. Another shop that's supposed to be respectable gave me a freshly machined block with a .001" hour glass finish in one cylinder. I would ASSume he checked some of the cylinders.....but he sure didn't check that one. If he did, he didn't care. We can agree to disagree or continue to give each other red X's......
 
Everyone would like new steel or aluminum or hd whatever caps
economics dictate a stock replacement cap on low performance engines
I would do studs if I was going to replace a cap and line bore
bottom tap, hard washers the whole 9 yards
but remember studs help most when the engine is going to be torn down on a regular basis
and the fine threads give better torque/ clamp control
if your are putting it together once for the long haul bolts work fine
example sorta (Studs We don't need no stinking studs)
on our Rambler 199 +.010 for 210 cu in we ground the tops of the caps flat and installed steel straps using stock half inch head bolts for the mains
over 1,200 hp on several pulls and over 1000 for 30 minuets never any crank problems with either stock high psi nodular iron or aramasteel cranks
60 lbs boost twin turbos, methanol, rich
on a BBM the girdles do help but you can break anything, also a short fill b4 the line bore
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In regards to the one broken cap so the rest are probably weak ! ? Really dude! He stated it went sideways they brake like that it's kinda common! Second to say find another matching set is well to be blunt not smart ! How do you know what your installating? It could be worse off then what came out ! Get new cap check with micrometer let it rip!
 
The steel bearing shell does not care about cylinder hone crosshatch pretty
you use a line hone where it helps and where core is good enough you do not have to take the time to set up line bore
I do not think cap replacement meets that test unless you are really really lucy with the replacement cap
We had a line bores set up for sbc bbc and sbf (and Merlin/ Packard :) everything else had a choice of a smaller or larger line bore
 
Personally, I like em line honed just like the cylinders. Smoother bore finish. Most respectable shop will check their work. Been doing it since72. Some machinists are better than others. Your name is on that job when it leaves the shop. It don't take that much more time to do it right the 1st time.
Why you disagree? Cranky
 
How many guys check the shop's work before they assemble the engine? Very few and I disagree with you on 'most' shops check their work...even respectable ones. Another shop that's supposed to be respectable gave me a freshly machined block with a .001" hour glass finish in one cylinder. I would ASSume he checked some of the cylinders.....but he sure didn't check that one. If he did, he didn't care. We can agree to disagree or continue to give each other red X's......
Well Cranky, maybe you need to find another shop. We check every job before it comes out of machine I don't want to do them again!
 
The steel bearing shell does not care about cylinder hone crosshatch pretty
you use a line hone where it helps and where core is good enough you do not have to take the time to set up line bore
I do not think cap replacement meets that test unless you are really really lucy with the replacement cap
We had a line bores set up for sbc bbc and sbf (and Merlin/ Packard :) everything else had a choice of a smaller or larger line bore
We only align bore when the bearing housing is fubar'ed.Your right the bearing doesn't give shi where it sits. But, it looks good to customers when they pick up their blocks!
 
Well Cranky, maybe you need to find another shop. We check every job before it comes out of machine I don't want to do them again!
The good ones all retired or moved away and the lousy ones are dead. The only place that I trust these days is 50 miles one way :( Thing is, I haven't done engine work in quite awhile now so it doesn't really much matter now. Decided it was a lot less headache to concentrate on building rear ends but I've slowed way down on that even over the past few years.
 
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