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Picking up a 69 Charger next week, not sure if rear-end is SureGrip or standard? (Pics Inside)

Indetrucks

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Good day all,
I have lurked this forum in the past and finally got around to creating an account now that I am finally going to own a 69 Charger.
I have attached pics of the fender tag and build sheet as well as a picture of the pumpkin in hopes to figure out if the diff is sure grip or just the old one-tire-fire.
Thank you all for your time, I look forward to learning as much as possible from the experts here :)

290156866_404981098246137_8266437027305149964_n.jpg


fendertag.jpg
 
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Welcome aboard post more pics when you get it. And that is a strange place for the voltage regulator.
 
Welcome from Alabama, the build sheet is to blurry for me to read. The picture of the rear end doesn't show the housing numbers. Also there may still be ratio and sure grip tags on it.
 
Welcome aboard post more pics when you get it. And that is a strange place for the voltage regulator.
I thought so too! I have never seen one put there, it also has flat slotted screws which tells me it was put there a while ago. Nobody really uses flat head screws these days?
 
Welcome from Alabama, the build sheet is to blurry for me to read. The picture of the rear end doesn't show the housing numbers. Also there may still be ratio and sure grip tags on it.
Not sure why it was uploaded so small, my image is quite large. Ill try again, but without embedding it.
*edit* Still showing a small picture. Odd. Here are some links to an outside host.

Pumpkin
Fender tag
 
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Can't tell for sure here on my phone screen.
Oh, first, a lynch road fender tag might tell you about the rearend, I don't think St.Louis does. (Yours).
On the fourth line of your broadcast, under "axle", if that says 589, that's a 3.23 open.
Give us a zoomed in view of line four.
 
Can't tell for sure here on my phone screen.
Oh, first, a lynch road fender tag might tell you about the rearend, I don't think St.Louis does. (Yours).
On the fourth line of your broadcast, under "axle", if that says 589, that's a 3.23 open.
Give us a zoomed in view of line four.

Sorry for my ignorance (my first Mopar) but what does "open" mean?
I zoomed in on the build sheet and captured it in 3 sections. Let's see if it shows here.
Just to add, the original owner special ordered it during something called the White Hat Special back in 69.
 
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Can't tell for sure here on my phone screen.
Oh, first, a lynch road fender tag might tell you about the rearend, I don't think St.Louis does. (Yours).
On the fourth line of your broadcast, under "axle", if that says 589, that's a 3.23 open.
Give us a zoomed in view of line four.
I zoomed in on it and looks like 589 on the build sheet.
 
There is no way to tell what is in the pumkin just by looking at the case. When you get the car, jack it up and turn one of the rear wheels by hand. If the other rear turns in the same direction, you have a sure grip. Just because the build sheet says one thing, remember that these cars are over 50 years old and the center chunk could very possibly been swapped out in the past.
 
Hunt is absolutely right. Only way to KNOW what is the rear is to check for open or sure grip, and ratio, yourself.
Lots of videos on you tube if you don't know how.
 
There is no way to tell what is in the pumkin just by looking at the case. When you get the car, jack it up and turn one of the rear wheels by hand. If the other rear turns in the same direction, you have a sure grip. Just because the build sheet says one thing, remember that these cars are over 50 years old and the center chunk could very possibly been swapped out in the past.

Thank you. What is the preferred way to go about making the rear diff posi/limited slip/SureGrip? Is it as basic as swapping out the gears? If so, who's the vender to buy from?

I will work on getting pics and posting ASAP. Thank you all for your help!
 
Welcome! You will get lots of valuable information on here. I have.
 
There are three carriers typically used in muscle Era mopars, and each needs its own matching ring and pinion. 741, 742, and 489 (last three digits of casting number on the pumpkin. If yours is stock, most likely a 742, a real good one.)
The ring gear carriers themselves, whether open or sure grip interchange in all housings.(don't call them "posi's" here, you'll get slapped upside the head, lol)
There are multiple ways to get a lsd. (Limited slip diff).
There is cone type sure grip (ok), clutch type (better) gear style (truetrac) locker (very strong, but noisy) and spartan lockers (lockright) than convert your open carrier to an Lsd.
By far your best option would be to talk, by phone, with Cass, Dr Diff on the web. Mopar lover, driveline and brakes maven extraordinaire.
 
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Build sheet has no number stamped in the sure grip area...1 wheel peal from factory
 
There are three carriers typically used in muscle Era mopars, and each needs its own marching ring and pinion. 741, 742, and 489 (last three digits of casting number on the pumpkin. If yours is stock, most likely a 742, a real good one.
The ring gear carriers themselves, whether open or sure grip interchange in all housings.(don't call them "posi's" here, you'll get slapped upside the head, lol)
There are multiple ways to get a lsd. (Limited slip diff).
There is cone type sure grip (ok), clutch type (better) gear style (truetrac) locker (very strong, but noisy) and spartan lockers (lockright) than convert your open carrier to an Lsd.
By far your best option would be to talk, by phone, with Cass, Dr Diff on the web. Mopar lover, driveline and brakes maven extraordinaire.

Thank you VERY MUCH for this information. I appreciate you and everyone else who has chimed in. I will keep that word (posi) outta my mouth around these parts :D
 
Thank you. What is the preferred way to go about making the rear diff posi/limited slip/SureGrip? Is it as basic as swapping out the gears? If so, who's the vender to buy from?

I will work on getting pics and posting ASAP. Thank you all for your help!
Cass, aka Dr. Diff is who I buy all my rearend and brake stuff from. He is the best at what he does out there imo, and a very good guy to boot. He can set you up with whatever you want.
 
Cass, aka Dr. Diff is who I buy all my rearend and brake stuff from. He is the best put there imo, and a very good guy. He cab set you up with whatever you want.

Thanks, I will first determine that I do indeed have an open diff. If so, do you know what info needs other than my carrier number and desire gear ratio?
 
Thanks, I will first determine that I do indeed have an open diff. If so, do you know what info needs other than my carrier number and desire gear ratio?
To get started, you will need to know the center section #. 741, 742, or 489. Then call Cass and he will explain your options.
 
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