• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Progress on my 73 Charger

Najib

Well-Known Member
Local time
7:23 AM
Joined
Sep 9, 2020
Messages
133
Reaction score
47
Location
Indiana
So after a sandblast and a front end rebuild and a front end paint job and a quick primer to keep it from rusting here it is. I defintly wish that i masked off my side windows better. I pieced my front end kit from rock auto together with some decent parts. It turned out decent. I am getting ready when I get back from my business trip to get sherman quater panels and weld them in. I did an oopsie when i was rolling the car back in from primering it. At the time the front end was stripped down and had some sort of bright idea to use a engine crane to roll around the car and had the front fenders on to primer it and as I was rolling it in the crane fell on its side. Luckly my front fenders werent in the best condition anyway. it bent the passenger side one like crazy. Anyhow, since engineswaps .com hasnt had 440 conversion mounts for a while now i have a cracked 440 block that im going to use as a template for mounts. As for the floor pans im probably going to order both sections soon here and when i get back im gonna weld it in along with the quaters. When thats done im probably going to throw in the fuel system and the engine and trans once its all done and wire the car up and im going to try the cold case radiator to see how she does.
unnamed (1).jpg
unnamed.jpg
 
So after a sandblast and a front end rebuild and a front end paint job and a quick primer to keep it from rusting here it is. I defintly wish that i masked off my side windows better. I pieced my front end kit from rock auto together with some decent parts. It turned out decent. I am getting ready when I get back from my business trip to get sherman quater panels and weld them in. I did an oopsie when i was rolling the car back in from primering it. At the time the front end was stripped down and had some sort of bright idea to use a engine crane to roll around the car and had the front fenders on to primer it and as I was rolling it in the crane fell on its side. Luckly my front fenders werent in the best condition anyway. it bent the passenger side one like crazy. Anyhow, since engineswaps .com hasnt had 440 conversion mounts for a while now i have a cracked 440 block that im going to use as a template for mounts. As for the floor pans im probably going to order both sections soon here and when i get back im gonna weld it in along with the quaters. When thats done im probably going to throw in the fuel system and the engine and trans once its all done and wire the car up and im going to try the cold case radiator to see how she does. View attachment 1198754 View attachment 1198755

Yeah and dont mind the overspray on the tires, the wheels are either going to be powdercoated black or just repolished with some new tires. Yeah definitly not my best work my biggest regret and mistake was getting too excited and not preparing for the job properly
 
Use 000 steel wool and thinner or acetone for the overspray on the glass. Went through this over the summer with PPG single stage on my glass. Light pressure and let the wool and chemical do the work. Order of operation so to speak..., front end (which is done), then brakes and lines, (no point in it running if you can't stop it), fuel lines and tank, rear suspension, engine/trans and finally exhaust. When all this is done its easy to move if need be and then you can focus on the body and not worry about damaging any finished body work or denting panels. If you're getting new tires eventually that doesn't matter now as far as overspray. Just my opinion but, has always worked well for me. Good luck
 
Use 000 steel wool and thinner or acetone for the overspray on the glass. Went through this over the summer with PPG single stage on my glass. Light pressure and let the wool and chemical do the work. Order of operation so to speak..., front end (which is done), then brakes and lines, (no point in it running if you can't stop it), fuel lines and tank, rear suspension, engine/trans and finally exhaust. When all this is done its easy to move if need be and then you can focus on the body and not worry about damaging any finished body work or denting panels. If you're getting new tires eventually that doesn't matter now as far as overspray. Just my opinion but, has always worked well for me. Good luck

Once I get my fuel tank and lines, along with break lines and rear breaks, and master cylinder I have the rear shocks, the only thing that’s holding me back is the fuel thing, by the tank there’s a little block thing that goes from the fuel tank and makes it go to the car it’s like a fuel valve or something
 
Once I get my fuel tank and lines, along with break lines and rear breaks, and master cylinder I have the rear shocks, the only thing that’s holding me back is the fuel thing, by the tank there’s a little block thing that goes from the fuel tank and makes it go to the car it’s like a fuel valve or something
72? In the middle in front of tank? Pull it out and make sure it's clear with compressed air blowing into ( hillbilly **** but it works). Look online for the hose routing for it and redo the rubber lines. Those are the tank vents. Put it back on and move on to the next thing.
 
72? In the middle in front of tank? Pull it out and make sure it's clear with compressed air blowing into ( hillbilly **** but it works). Look online for the hose routing for it and redo the rubber lines. Those are the tank vents. Put it back on and move on to the next thing.

awesome thanks for the advice, as long as it works that’s fine with me, might burn my pocket a little bit less lol
 
I use a razor blade to scrape off overspray on glass.
 
I use a razor blade to scrape off overspray on glass.
wouldnt that scratch the glass or wouldnt you have to use really fine sand paper to smooth it out after being done?
 
nope.

just don't dig with the edge, or scratch back and forth at a 90 degree angle

Use a new or nearly new blade and go slow, at a close angle to the glass, like scraping a gasket.

it'll come right up.
 
...and don't use sandpaper or scotch-brite.

EVER, unless you have 10,000 grit and are a glass shop employee.
 
As long as there's progress, no matter how big or small, the motivation can live on.
That's critical, man. Absolutely critical to any project like these cars is to not get lost
in the process and lose your head of steam.
Just keep knocking off those little steps, one by one.:thumbsup:
 
wouldnt that scratch the glass or wouldnt you have to use really fine sand paper to smooth it out after being done?
YES! It can scratch it very easily. My left rear 1/4 window has a 2" long scratch from the last owner doing that. I've been doing body and paint for 25 years, and learned long before that when I was a detailer you don't use a razor blade on auto glass. The glass is not perfectly flat and you will do more damage before you know it. That is why you use 000 steel wool and something like thinner or acetone as you do it. Safest way. Razer Blade is just an impatient way of doing it but to each their own, been they're done it.
 
Last edited:
As long as there's progress, no matter how big or small, the motivation can live on.
That's critical, man. Absolutely critical to any project like these cars is to not get lost
in the process and lose your head of steam.
Just keep knocking off those little steps, one by one.:thumbsup:

yes, sometimes I get a bit down and just have thoughts of buying a restored one, I still have a feeling it wont turn out like I want to but I was going to use fiber glass to patch my holes but I realized that is just not Right so when I come back to the states I’m going to do it properly
 
I'm not a professional body person, but I've been scraping overspray from auto glass (and house window glass) with a razor for over 35 years and never scratched one.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top