Pulling my 904 this weekend

[Moms68]

I'm removing the 904 tranny this weekend to have it rebuilt properly, and will also be replacing the torque converter. Any helpful hints for the removal? Admittedly it's been a while since I've done this.

I'll have the front of the car on ramps and the back up on jack-stands. I have a low lift scissor type tranny jack also.

Thank you.

 

[Darter6]

Sounds like you got it covered.One suggestion is use 2 wrenches when removing the cooler lines.
many times the the fitting turns in the case or radiator thus twisting the cooler line.

 

[Ironbuilt]

Since you're not going to have a lot of room to work with, you might want to pull the dipstick before lowering the transmission.

 

[440Coronet500]

Make sure to support the rear of the engine or remove the distributor. If not it will hit the firewall. I'm assuming this is a small block motor because it's hooked up to a 904. 440'

 

[Don Frelier]

A few more tips that might be helpful from my experience:

Get the car as high as possible I would remove the drivers side front wheel.
If you can find some big flat sheets of cardboard slide them under the car.
Easier to move around, catches drips and is warmer than concrete.
MAKE SURE THAT SUCKER IS STABLE, I ACTUALLY GRAB THE BUMPER AND YANK ON IT TO SEE IF IT MOVES AT ALL.
Not a fan of ramps they take up too much room for me.
I would disconnect the cooler line from the radiator on the drivers side that should be the pressure line from the trans.
Take a piece of hose and direct it into a catch jug or pan, start it in neutral and pump the fluid out.
Shut it down as soon as the flow subsides.
Remove the driveshaft and tape the rear caps from the differential so they don't fall off and get dirt in the bearings.
Disconnect the battery and remove the starter you can just hang it from a wire or strap and leave the wires connected.
Take off the dust cover and remove the torque converter bolts.
I usually use a breaker bar and a big socket to roll the engine to get at them.
If you are strong you can just grab the crank and belt and turn the engine a bit.
Take off the cooler lines and linkage (pictures of the linkage might be a good idea)
Remove all the housing bolts except the lower two.
Now support the trans below the pan usually a square piece of plywood on a good jack.
Remove the cross member.
Last two bolts.
Pull back there are two dowels that align it push the converter into the trans and lower it.

Lastly and most important step:
Grab a beer and take a break.

 

[Darter6]

Not a fan of ramps they take up too much room for me.

Yep.

 

[Moms68]

Make sure to support the rear of the engine or remove the distributor. If not it will hit the firewall. I'm assuming this is a small block motor because it's hooked up to a 904. 440'

Can I support the engine from below? The headers and exhaust are still installed I don’t picture it tipping too much. I read somewhere are using a 2x4 in the engine bay too. Not sure about how that works. Thanks to all that responded so far!!

 

[Don Frelier]

The exhaust won't help much in supporting the engine.
Yes you can support underneath or cut a 2X4 to sit between the inner fenders and hang it from above.
We are not talking about a huge amount of weight to keep it from tipping.
Can you pull the starter with the driver's side header attached? (Probably not)
Then job just got a little bigger.

 

[Darter6]

A 1'' ratchet strap works with and without exhaust.
Though this picture is holding the 904 in place you can hook and cradle a short 2x4 across the engine oil pan.

 

[threewood]

The clearance between the torsion bar and the ground needs to be bigger than the 904 bell housing height. I have never been able to pull one out while on the trans jack, always too high.

I like to hold the engine up with a floor jack. You can lean the engine back a touch making it easier to slip the trans back.

Use a c clamp to hold the torque converter in place on the input shaft before you pull the trans.

 

[440Coronet500]

Can I support the engine from below? The headers and exhaust are still installed I don’t picture it tipping too much. I read somewhere are using a 2x4 in the engine bay too. Not sure about how that works. Thanks to all that responded so far!!

I typically use a piece of 2x4 between the oil pan and the center link for support. Since I don't know what you're working on not sure if that's going to work for you. 440'

 

[Moms68]

Should have mentioned the car is a ‘68 Charger. I started prep work when I got home for work today. I have the 4’ long 2x4 across the inner fenders, with each end sitting on a short piece of 2x3 on each end sitting the long way on the fender. Used a ratchet strap around that to support the 340 engine. The starter is a mini so that won’t be an issue to remove.

Nixed the ramps and will use 4 heavy duty jack stands instead. My buddy will come over to help when it comes time to pull it.

 

[440Coronet500]

A 340 68 Charger? 340's are my favorite engine! That Charger originally come with a 318? 440'

 

[Moms68]

A 340 68 Charger? 340's are my favorite engine! That Charger originally come with a 318? 440'

Yes. Still have the numbers matching 318. Car has 50k original miles but I wanted a bit more power than the 318.

 

[1 Wild R/T]

Once the torque convertor is unbolted from the flex plate bolt a 3/8" wrench to the lower bell housing area to trap the torque convertor so it can't fall out....

Picture is of a GM & instead of a wrench they used a piece of metal and they mounted it up high which means it has to be removed at the time when it would actually be useful...But you'll get the idea...

 

[Don Frelier]

It's a good idea to do something similar to wilds picture when installing the transmission. The torque converter needs to be fully seated before mating up with the engine block. I've used a beam clamp right at the bottom of the bell housing. Worked well.

 

[Hilljack68]

A 340 68 Charger? 340's are my favorite engine! That Charger originally come with a 318?

Oh heck yeah! I had a 69 Charger that the previous owner had dropped a 340 in... loved it so much that when I built my Coronet I pulled the 318 and planted another 340 in it. Those are great engines... but I have a 440 in the barn in case I have a change of heart some day.

 

[Moms68]

A big thank you to all that offered tips and advice! It went very smooth and with my buddies help we had it out in about 3 hours.

Now it’s off to the rebuild shop.

 

[Don Frelier]

Good to hear.
That torque converter looks pretty new?

 

[Moms68]

It was supposed be rebuilt when I installed the 340 about 6 years ago. That torque converter is original to the car with 50k miles. I have my doubts on the quality of that rebuild as the rest of trans bebuild couldn’t handle the added HP. Time to have it done right.