Re-Rebuilding the 440-493 in a 1970 Charger

ckessel

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Are the big plugs 1 41/64" or 1 5/8"? Hopefully 41/64".
 

Kern Dog

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I’ll check the sizes. Maybe I am lucky but I have yet to have a core plug pop out.
With the engine finally back….

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On the engine stand ready to start work.

2C81D046-794A-49FD-857D-58803F7DA79D.jpeg
 

Kern Dog

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I looked closer at a few of the markings.

EC76FD43-35B6-4311-A470-046C4ACA3E11.jpeg

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I don’t know what this stuff means.
In 2004, I had a recently rebuilt 440 throw a rod so I bought this block to replace it. It is a 1974 casting.

I tried to fit the Lunati cam in. It cleared the first three bearings but stopped at #4.
I pulled out my trusty cam bearing clearance tool:

image.jpg

I packed the cutting grooves with bearing grease and slipped it in. It stopped at #4 bearing too so I slowly rotated it until it went in…then it stopped at # 5. I spun it some more but it wouldn’t move in anymore. Using a rubber mallet, I tapped it in.
From there, I spun it until it moved freely.
When I pulled the cutter cam out, I saw this:

B7C566D4-E1A6-4C0E-9489-18DED6357CC3.jpeg


#3 bearing moved to the rear. I was able to get it back in place with a paint stick and mallet but then I found the bearing was loose in the block.
I’ll have to take the block back to the shop to have my guy replace the one bearing.
Weird story…. Thursday the man called to say that the rearmost bearing wouldn’t stay in place. I bought another set of cam bearings and brought them in. Now #3 is doing the same thing.
 

Kern Dog

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Since I have been waiting for this engine for 9 weeks, I wasn’t going to just call it quits. I decided to paint it.
First up was etching primer:
image.jpg


I’ve read that the top coat of paint may not be compatible with etching primer so I bought this :

image.jpg


Then I sprayed it THIS:
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Yeah…. GoManGo orange!




A062D384-127C-4067-A3FB-A20F2A169F07.jpeg

0589DB6D-5D61-4308-834E-E8BFB1625604.jpeg
 

Kern Dog

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This paint is tangy.

29FF89F5-0E01-4C11-9BFC-F58981EBA617.jpeg




7DBD0435-A70F-4226-A63D-FC3F4AFA7FDD.jpeg

I love the color and the shine.
Does anyone know what this means:
3F5A3A77-1787-49FA-B596-80DC5EFD2C87.jpeg

5R ?
 

Kern Dog

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Color comparison.

FE6F50CB-A317-4095-84F2-28D75F7ABBEC.jpeg


ADA284C7-B82A-464A-8858-DD5DA2100A13.jpeg


The GoManGo is darker but shines a lot more.
 

69Bee

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I don't understand "Thanks" to my question. Do you have a gasket choice in mind already?
 

Kern Dog

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With these aluminum heads, I have used the Fel Pro blue Perma Torque and Cometic MLS styles. Both have worked well. This time I am going back to the Fel Pro since I have them and my compression rate is based on the .039 thickness.
Since Mary went out to dinner with a friend, I did this......

318 R.jpg
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I'm going to paint the intake and heads with flat silver header paint, then matte clear. That is what I did to this water pump housing:

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These aluminum components are so porous, they get dirty and stained so easily.
 

69Bee

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Not worried about the heads, MLS or Composite will work, but I can see by the pic of the block deck that it is way too rough for an MLS gasket. Just wanted to point that out to you before you had issues.
 

Kern Dog

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I noticed that too. This will be the last time I use that machinist. He does good work but there are some peculiarities. He is semi-retired and only works a few hours 2-3 days a week. The shop barely survives financially and the tooling is old. The owner can't afford to update anything. Their balancing machinery broke a few years back and the man didn't spend the money to fix it.
 
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69Bee

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Yeah, I get all the damn flywheels because the other shop (my friend) doesn't want to fix it...
 

69Bee

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This is what they look like how I do them. I use CBN for cast iron, and Diamond for aluminum...

IMG_0160 (2).jpg
IMG_0161 (2).jpg
 

Kern Dog

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The last time I had the engine in his shop was 2011 and the deck finish was about like yours above. I used MLS gaskets then.
 

Kern Dog

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Did you resolve the cam bearing issue?
No. I'm going to take the block back next week. I'm hoping I can drop in, get it changed out and bring it right back.
I really want to make progress on this.
I'm ready to order my brakes this weekend. 13" front rotors with 2 piston aluminum calipers and 11.7" rear rotors. The car will be faster so I'll need more braking force.
 

69Bee

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If you can remove the cam bearings before you take it back and clean up any gouges and raised material including breaking the edge of all of the drilled oil holes. that will help out a lot.
 

Kern Dog

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I don't have a cam bearing tool. I can knock this one out but getting a new one in may not be as easy.
The first set of bearings had a loose fitting # 5 bearing so I bought another set. He installed #5 and I thought I was set.
I left the rest of the second set with him so he has them at the shop already.
I might do as you suggest though, Maybe there are some burrs to file down.

I just noticed this......

302 R (2).jpg



Look how the bearing is off to the right and there are some odd marks at the edge of the cam journal.
What the heck ??
 

69Bee

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almost looks like a weld splatter. That definitely needs to get cleaned up.
 
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