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awesome work....... relentless persistence is the only way it gets done
Re-Rebuilding the 440-493 in a 1970 Charger
- Thread starter Kern Dog
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Thanks, guys. The car has been down for over 4 months and I'm anxious to drive it. I'm curious how the brakes will feel compared to the prior setup I had. I've read that hydroboost can be touchy. I'm hoping for brake confidence like I have with manual brake A body disc-drum setups or most newer cars. The front discs I have are 13" with 2 piston calipers. Nothing super exotic but certainly a step up from what I had.
I'm going with DOT 5 silicone fluid for the brake system this time. I need to remove the master cylinder to bench bleed it. Lots of small tasks to do. I'll chip away at it after work each day. It seems like my Saturday obligations that I've had for over a month are over so I'll have full weekends unless something else pops up.
I'm going with DOT 5 silicone fluid for the brake system this time. I need to remove the master cylinder to bench bleed it. Lots of small tasks to do. I'll chip away at it after work each day. It seems like my Saturday obligations that I've had for over a month are over so I'll have full weekends unless something else pops up.
Once I removed and reinstalled my engine that way in 2014/2015, I vowed never to do it again. I have since removed/reinstalled 3 engines since then, and all the same way. I will never go back to dangling an engine on a chain if I can help it.
Nice work!
Nice JOB.
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I will probably still do some engine swaps from the top.
I see advantages to both.
With an automatic transmission, mating the engine to the trans is a lot easier. Leaving the trans in place saves time on linkages, drive shaft, cooler lines and spilled ATF.
For a car not ready for a restoration, leaving the k member and brakes intact is a time saver too.
I see advantages to both.
With an automatic transmission, mating the engine to the trans is a lot easier. Leaving the trans in place saves time on linkages, drive shaft, cooler lines and spilled ATF.
For a car not ready for a restoration, leaving the k member and brakes intact is a time saver too.
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Today's update may not thrill many members but it is part of the process.
I started bolting in the front accessories. I'm accustomed to the NON A/C arrangement. Those I can put together with no problem.
This is a factory style A/C pulley and bracket arrangement here.
I forgot the order in which it all goes. I took pictures but the angles were not good. I figured it out but it wasn't a "one and done" deal.
I have to wait to bolt up the A/C compressor. The thermostat housing goes on first.
I had to pull the shroud to gain access to install the 4 groove crank pulley. I should have installed that pulley when the engine was out.
Typical little obstacles.....Nothing I can't handle.
I mocked up for the hydraulic lines for the power steering and hydroboost.
The HB unit gets pressure directly from the P/S pump. I'm not sure how this will all go. I cut down a couple old P/S hoses to see what angles and shapes that I'll need.
This is the route of the line from the pump to the HB unit.
I'm going to see if the man can save and reuse the line coming off of the pump.
Same goes with this next line....It goes from the HB unit to the steering box.
I knocked the torsion bars in....I like the way it sits now compared to the hard rake it had.
I started bolting in the front accessories. I'm accustomed to the NON A/C arrangement. Those I can put together with no problem.
This is a factory style A/C pulley and bracket arrangement here.
I forgot the order in which it all goes. I took pictures but the angles were not good. I figured it out but it wasn't a "one and done" deal.
I have to wait to bolt up the A/C compressor. The thermostat housing goes on first.
I had to pull the shroud to gain access to install the 4 groove crank pulley. I should have installed that pulley when the engine was out.
Typical little obstacles.....Nothing I can't handle.
I mocked up for the hydraulic lines for the power steering and hydroboost.
The HB unit gets pressure directly from the P/S pump. I'm not sure how this will all go. I cut down a couple old P/S hoses to see what angles and shapes that I'll need.
This is the route of the line from the pump to the HB unit.
I'm going to see if the man can save and reuse the line coming off of the pump.
Same goes with this next line....It goes from the HB unit to the steering box.
I knocked the torsion bars in....I like the way it sits now compared to the hard rake it had.
Cheapsunglasses
In Rust We Trust!
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Great work (and nice flag) 
ckessel
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Like it!
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Regarding the hydroboost fittings, I thought the NAPA machine shop guy would have what I needed.
He did not.
This is going to take some thinking. I did a search on this forum but found nothing helpful. The HB unit looks like so:
The brass fitting on the left is input directly from the pump. I need a 6 AN fitting with a 90 or even a 110 degree bend. The brass fitting on the right is output to the steering box. It needs a 6 AN fitting with a 180 degree bend to go under the HB and master cylinder. I may have to contact a tractor repair facility to see about getting hoses made.
I read somewhere that P/S hoses needed some type of bends in the hard line to even out the harmonics. The theory is....The pump pressure is in a series of pulses and the bends in the line brings the pulses together. Without the bends, the steering can be "notchy".
It makes some sense but I'd need someone with more knowledge on it to get me to really understand and believe it.
He did not.
This is going to take some thinking. I did a search on this forum but found nothing helpful. The HB unit looks like so:
The brass fitting on the left is input directly from the pump. I need a 6 AN fitting with a 90 or even a 110 degree bend. The brass fitting on the right is output to the steering box. It needs a 6 AN fitting with a 180 degree bend to go under the HB and master cylinder. I may have to contact a tractor repair facility to see about getting hoses made.
I read somewhere that P/S hoses needed some type of bends in the hard line to even out the harmonics. The theory is....The pump pressure is in a series of pulses and the bends in the line brings the pulses together. Without the bends, the steering can be "notchy".
It makes some sense but I'd need someone with more knowledge on it to get me to really understand and believe it.
Cheapsunglasses
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Have you talked to summit racing? Maybe someone there can help.
Surly there’s someone here that knows, this forum is full of knowledgeable people.
Surly there’s someone here that knows, this forum is full of knowledgeable people.
any decent hydraulic/hose shop should have the fittings you need....
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I found a few local hydraulic equipment companies that can make lines to order. One is on the way home from work. I'll stop by tomorrow.
4406bbl
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I know there was a tsb on some dodge and chryslers in the 2000s that had you put about 3 ft of extra return line in loops that are 6" diameter or more to cut down on the noise/notch issue, it worked in my case.
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I sent an email to Dr Diff.
The Hydroboost unit came with adapter fittings of an unknown size. The ends that thread into the HB housing look unusual.
The left side where the arrows point are what threads into the HB housing.
I am trying to keep the hydraulic lines close to the HB unit so they clear everything as well as look good. A fitting like the one above but with a 90 degree elbow would be much better.
The picture below is of the A/C fittings. I don't know if anyone makes them but what I'd really like is something like these.
These would have the collar that would be crimped over the rubber hose.
The Hydroboost unit came with adapter fittings of an unknown size. The ends that thread into the HB housing look unusual.
The left side where the arrows point are what threads into the HB housing.
I am trying to keep the hydraulic lines close to the HB unit so they clear everything as well as look good. A fitting like the one above but with a 90 degree elbow would be much better.
The picture below is of the A/C fittings. I don't know if anyone makes them but what I'd really like is something like these.
These would have the collar that would be crimped over the rubber hose.
Both are common hydraulic fittings
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A shop in town had these....They are like the ones in the first picture above.
Maybe I am being picky but a stack of fittings doesn't look as good to me as one that has an elbow and threads into the case. I have power steering hoses with threaded male ends but they are nothing like the brass fittings with that O ring in it.
Maybe I am being picky but a stack of fittings doesn't look as good to me as one that has an elbow and threads into the case. I have power steering hoses with threaded male ends but they are nothing like the brass fittings with that O ring in it.
I worked in fluid power (hydraulics) for a few years, never saw that exact O ring fitting.. Probably special just for hydra-boost
On the other any hose shop should have a few versions of this
On the other any hose shop should have a few versions of this
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Yeah, there are a few ways to go from what you have shown and what I'm seeing online.
Dr Diff sent me a link to a CPP ebay deal with banjo fittings:
If these work, they would tuck the hoses close to the HB unit and allow some articulation. I'm just curious how well they would seal.
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I suspect that the HB unit has metric threads. I'm looking at some custom stuff here.
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