Rear Axle Green Bearing Install Questions

[MT_Mopar]

I have a new set of Moser Engineering rear Axle Bearings 9400M coming on the UPS truck. I've had a small leak on one side of my 8 3/4 rear axle for a while, so I decided to switch them both out with the green snap-ring style.

I have a new Eaton Tru-Trac that I installed with the thrust block in the diff, after my shop presses on the green bearings I will need to remove the thrust block correct? Can I just push it out? If I remember correctly I put it in with some grease prior to installing my oem axles. With the green bearings the axles will stick in the housing further?

Also, any tips on removing and installing the inner seals?

Thanks

 

[5.7 hemi]

You can leave the inner seals, they wont hurt anything. The thrust block has to go, sometimes a magnet will get it out.

 

[Jim Bob The Dancing Bear]

I would replace your seals. You can rent a slide hammer from an auto parts store with the correct 3 or 4 finger removal tool. Then install using a seal installation tool also available from your auto parts store. I had my housing out and in the back of my truck. I handed the counter guy my wallet and used the tools in the parking lot and then returned the tools.



*Disclaimer: I live in a smallish town where I can trust the parts guy to not go through my wallet. Granted I am married and don't have cash anyway.

 

[MT_Mopar]

Yes, the kit comes with inner seals and I plan on replacing them, thanks for the info Hemi and JB!

View attachment 204428

 

[67 coronet]

it is easy to pull the old seal.use the end of the axle,just before you pull it out past the old seal.push it sideways and it will catch and pop out the old seal.much easyer then a slide hammer.install with seal installation tool or a perfect size socket.

 

[MT_Mopar]

Got the new Green Bearings all pressed in and installed, also put in new inner seals. Nice.

I was assuming the the thrust block would be happily waiting in the middle of the center section for me. When I put a flashlight in there... NO fricken thrust block. Damn! the thing had fell down into the abyss of the diff, ... %$^&*#!

I had a strong magnet that I rigged up to piece of fence wire and after the third try it came out! Amazing! Took a little while but it worked!

I was dreading having to pull that whole thing apart to get that s.o.b. out of there. Anyway, I am here to report that a thrust block can successfully be removed with a magnet and thanks for the tip 5.7 Hemi!

 

[66four40]

Sorry to dig up an old thread but I need to perform the same operation on my ride. I have a 741 case sure grip, and the full green bearing kit from Dr. Diff with new seals. If that thrust block falls in the housing, do I just fish it out and use it as a paper weight? There is no need for it to go back in?

Thanks,

Derek

 

[MT_Mopar]

Hey Derek, with the Green bearings you do not need to re-install the thrust block, if it falls into the bottom of the diff case it will not be easy to get out, it can be done though and you will need a strong magnet on a long stiff wire.

I was actually very surprised that I got mine out after it fell down. I can take a picture of my magnet setup if you want.

Good luck!

 

[66four40]

That is the answer I was hoping for. Strong magnet and some patience. Thank you again. How strong of a magnet, I have one that can pick up 3lbs?

 

[Badvert65]

Is there a thrust block in OE Sure Grips? And does it also need to come out? I ask because I have a 3.55 Sure Grip in my 65 Belvedere and when I switched to the non adjustable bearings I didn't pull anything from the center section. (the directions never mentioned anything had to be removed).

 

[Cranky]

The cone type SG's have a large thrust pin and it's trapped by the cross shaft and can't fall out on it's own but the clutch type is nothing more than two buttons connected by a roll pin and can work it's way out of place. I always pull them out before they can come out on their own. This is the cross shaft with spiders gears and the thrust pin is in the middle and is what goes into the cone type SG. Once it's installed into the SG unit, the thrust pin sits between the side gears and won't go anywhere but I still like to take it out instead of letting it just ride free...sorry, I don't have pic of what the thrust pin for the clutch type unit looks like.

 

[MT_Mopar]

As Cranky shows below, the sure grip unit is not the same.

Mine is a Detroit Tru-Trac with a individual differential thrust block (shown in the picture on the right side of my axle).

The cone type SG's have a large thrust pin and it's trapped by the cross shaft and can't fall out on it's own but the clutch type is nothing more than two buttons connected by a roll pin and can work it's way out of place. I always pull them out before they can come out on their own. This is the cross shaft with spiders gears and the thrust pin is in the middle and is what goes into the cone type SG. Once it's installed into the SG unit, the thrust pin sits between the side gears and won't go anywhere but I still like to take it out instead of letting it just ride free...sorry, I don't have pic of what the thrust pin for the clutch type unit looks like.

 

[watermelon]

MT are you keeping rear drum brakes?

I have been considering the Trutrac for my 66 Net for sometime and want to keep my rear drums n 2.76 gears. I may go Wilwood disc brakes in rear at some point in the future and they require the Green Bearings.


Thanks

 

[MT_Mopar]

I love my TruTrac, I have been hammering on it now for a while and is seems extremely solid with 3.73 gears. I am not racing though, just using street tires and burning a little rubber here and there.

Yes, keeping the rear drums for now, the front disc's can be upgraded significantly by using large caliper brackets, 11 3/4" rotors and Bendix Titanium pads. (15" Wheels)

See here: http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/mopar...-Montana&p=910245248&viewfull=1#post910245248

MT are you keeping rear drum brakes?

I have been considering the Trutrac for my 66 Net for sometime and want to keep my rear drums n 2.76 gears. I may go Wilwood disc brakes in rear at some point in the future and they require the Green Bearings.


Thanks

 

[vitamin c]

I don't think you need to remove the center thrust block with stock axles. The green bearings don't change the location of the axle in the housing.

 

[Cranky]

I don't think you need to remove the center thrust block with stock axles. The green bearings don't change the location of the axle in the housing.

If the aftermarket axles are cut to the right length, then it's not really an issue but I still don't care for the center pin to be left in place on the clutch type SG units. Half the time they came out on their own with stock axles and bearings and especially did so if someone adjusted the bearings too snug.

 

[vitamin c]

I would agree with that. I just had my B body, 489 cone type apart and the previous owner had the green's installed and had left the thrust block installed. it did have the pin through the center so no worry of it falling out. it did take me a bit to figure out what was going on. my previous A body build had aftermarket axles that required the thrust block to be removed,

 

[Koop500]

This is the same as the thrust block I pulled out of my 65 Sat

 

[66four40]

Maybe a silly question but I just yanked out the axles tonight and was wondering how I would know if the thrust blocks fell in the housing? When I look down the tube, am I looking at them pointed at me?

 

[66four40]

I confirmed that I have a clutch type SG. The pins don't seem to want to come out. I have fished a magnet down there and they are staying put in the carrier. I test fit the axles, after the green bearings have been pressed on the axles, and the retainer plates snug up tight. Do I need to pull the carrier out to remove these pins, or will the diff survive with them in place?