Rebuilding LemonWedge.

[LemonWedge]

I know I’m bouncing around a little here, but just want confirmation from someone that’s removed torsion bars before. I’ve heard horror stories on this task.
Once I have the adjuster studs completely removed from the lower control arms; all should be safe, correct?
Remove the retainer clips from the rear of the bars / backside of crossmember. Clamp the tool onto the bar, and tap it backwards until it slips out of the control arms. Then remove the control arm. Then the bar should be able to slide forward far enough to remove it from the crossmember.

Sound correct?

 

[malex]

I know I’m bouncing around a little here, but just want confirmation from someone that’s removed torsion bars before. I’ve heard horror stories on this task.
Once I have the adjuster studs completely removed from the lower control arms; all should be safe, correct?
Remove the retainer clips from the rear of the bars / backside of crossmember. Clamp the tool onto the bar, and tap it backwards until it slips out of the control arms. Then remove the control arm. Then the bar should be able to slide forward far enough to remove it from the crossmember.

Sound correct?

Yep. Or if there’s nothing behind the torsion bar (like a welded in crossmember) you can keep going right out the rear.
Mine has a crossmember added but the torsion bars will slip past underneath.

 

[khryslerkid]

I know I’m bouncing around a little here, but just want confirmation from someone that’s removed torsion bars before. I’ve heard horror stories on this task.
Once I have the adjuster studs completely removed from the lower control arms; all should be safe, correct?
Remove the retainer clips from the rear of the bars / backside of crossmember. Clamp the tool onto the bar, and tap it backwards until it slips out of the control arms. Then remove the control arm. Then the bar should be able to slide forward far enough to remove it from the crossmember.

Sound correct?

If you're upper control arms are still attached, remove the bump stops under them to allow the lower control arm to drop that much more.

 

[dvw]

Remove the torsion bar adjusters, strut rod nuts, pop the knuckles loose at upper ball joint, remove the torsion bar pivot stud nuts. Then tap on the pivot studs with a piece of brass. It'll all come out together.
Doug

 

[LemonWedge]

It has to have a fore/aft limiter. Put it where it's the easiest. I've used the hole down below the fuel pump seen in this picture. Weld a tube vertically in the K frame sticking up at the same height as the block ear. Then run a bolt through the block hole (requires a reducer sleeve) to the tube with a piece of 1/8"x1" strap. Works well, out of the way. I couldn't do it on the current car as the part of the block was milled off.
Doug

Do the limiters I’ve seen in this thread at at the transmission ears to crossmember satisfy this, or are you suggesting limiters at each end?

 

[dvw]

Either will work. When the current block didn't have the ear at the front the block idea was out. I came up with the transmission ear idea. Didn't know if it was strong enough when it was built. But they have proven themselves. Run the heims 90 degrees to each other to elimnate bind. These just used old parts that were laying around. The limiters pictured in post 105 are mine.
Doug

 

[Tex013]

I agree the 9 second zone is more intense. I didn't mine doing the cage and other minor stuff. The pain in the but is recertifying the cage every 3 years. The don't do anything except a 5 minte sonic check on a few bars. What is the hell is that? They learn nothing. If it certed the first time all the bars are there. I mean I didn't cut them out. But it's only a mere $275, then there's the seatbelts. You can run 2" factory belts forever, but 3" race belts evaporate after 2 years. And lets not forget the $250 NHRA license. I pay it. I don't like it. Fortunaly no one ever checks the dates on the trans shield, flexplate shield, balancer and God only knows what else.
Doug

Doug ,
our tech is every 2 yrs never seen sonic check done . Belts for me are lifetime under ANDRA , sub 135mph , and 10 yrs under IHRA . Just need the trans blanket , not date limited for me .Balancer flex plate only need sfi no time limit

Tex

 

[LemonWedge]

Doug ,
our tech is every 2 yrs never seen sonic check done . Belts for me are lifetime under ANDRA , sub 135mph , and 10 yrs under IHRA . Just need the trans blanket , not date limited for me .Balancer flex plate only need sfi no time limit

Tex

Belts are the biggest obvious cash-grab here in the States under NHRA tech. Two years, then recert or replace. It’s really a joke if you ask me. Other items are similar as you describe, Tex.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Belts are the biggest obvious cash-grab here in the States under NHRA tech. Two years, then recert or replace. It’s really a joke if you ask me. Other items are similar as you describe, Tex.

Pro 1 Racing & Safety Products
This is a good company to get seat belts from. You can send in your expired Pro1 belts and get them re-certified. They are high quality seat belts made in the USA.

 

[LemonWedge]

The two items that were a great help for access was pushing the firewall back and enlarging the trans tunnel. The firewall goes back pretty easy with a bottle jack and some wood across the the front of the firewall. The bottle jack on the K frame and a 4x4 betweeen the jack and firewall board. Move a little and move the board around. The tunnel enlargement makes using the standard TCI aluminum trans shield a breeze. Cut the hole at the front abouut 2" larger. Leave the rear of the tunnel at the trans crossmember and the throttle pedal mounting area. Then shove an oversized piece of sheet metal up in the hole. After tack welding (start at the top and work down). Trim the excess and finish weld. You cage looks nice.
Doug

View attachment 1950141

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View attachment 1950143

I’m inserting DVW’s outline from another thread in here so he doesn’t have to go over it again. I think it’s pertinent to this conversation as well.

Doug, I have a full front floor pan available to me from the other clip I have. I’m thinking of cutting mine out, splitting it down the middle and welding each half back in place approx. 2” outboard from its original location. Then using a strip from the donor clip to fill the approx. 4” void created down the middle. I should also be able to raise the tunnel slightly, massaging the sheetmetal to achieve that. Thoughts?

Can you offer more detail on the firewall mod. Sounds to me like simply once the tunnel is cut, the firewall just gets bent back in the middle in a controlled manner (??). Attachment at the A-pillar areas is unchanged, correct? And how much are we talking here? I suppose even just 1/2” would give back the thickness of the motorplate, so you could essentially now move the entire engine & trans rearward that 3/8” or even a scosh more….. until we consider the transmission mount at the crossmember. Any magic tricks to share there?

Donor sheetmetal:

 

[dvw]

The firewall will bend even with the floor pan attached. Depends on how far you want to go. Mine kinked slightly but was and easy repair befor paint. I like you ides with the trans tunnel.
Doug