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Some changes for LemonWedge

It only takes the u-bolts to be a bit loose for that to happen. Have you checked the torque on the suspension system bolts recently?
 
Just throwing fuel cell picture out there

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I talked with John Gay at Calvert this morning. He says they have seen this before, but it’s very rare. He felt the weight of my car coupled with the age of the springs (7 years) and the fact that they have seen a fair amount of street use could all be factors. But said it is still a very rare occurrence. He’s sending me out a pair of new locator studs. I’ll raplace them both; Should be good to go.
Hello lemonade. Just curious, have you ever been in the Renton area? Return to Renton car show? Reason im asking is there was a guy that cruised area in a car painted the same color years ago.
That’s racing....... On to the improvements!
 
I’ve never cruised Renton in this car. I Did hit the Renton loop when I was a kid back in the late ‘80s in my 68 4-speed GTO, and a really nice 69 Buick GS400 I let get away. I am in Renton these days on a weekly basis, however. The car doesn’t see cruise duties too much anymore. I’ve been infected with a pretty deep case of “bracket racing”. If it went 500 miles this year, 496 of them were within the Pacific Raceways Property.
 
Looking good . I would say a Victor 440 would be better if you have a RB , used both .
The PBR 29.5x10.5 are great i use them , if you can go a wider rim i would they are designed around a 10" rim . I started with PBR 28x10,5 on 8s then T thrustd 8 1/2 now 10s contact patch widened with each rim increase . Mini tub kind of makes it a no brainer . I moved the diff back 1/4" to fit the 29.5
Good luck

Tex

I went with the M1 because it will fit under my hood Tex, which a victor won’t do. Also, my engine operates in a lower RPM range than I think the Victor really fits. Good point though, I’m looking forward to seeing if the M1 will offer anything over the RPM.
I’ve reconsidered wheel choice, and may be willing to look at the Torque Thrust D, which would open the size choices to a10”w rear, and narrower front as well. I guess I’m sort of a snob, but I really prefer the shape of the TH original spokes. We’ll see.
 
The bracket racing bug is powerful. Once you win a race it really kicks in. The M1 should work well. I'd try the new tires on the 8" rim, see if they look OK on the wear pattern. Back in the day I ran 11.5x29.5W Stones. Recommended wheel width was 10-12". I started with 10" Keystones, worked real well. Switched to 12" Centerlines & no real big difference. Today the same 11.5x29.5W is recommended for 12" wheel only, same tire. Try what you have.
You will like having more tub & the springs in.
 
I’ve never cruised Renton in this car. I Did hit the Renton loop when I was a kid back in the late ‘80s in my 68 4-speed GTO, and a really nice 69 Buick GS400 I let get away. I am in Renton these days on a weekly basis, however. The car doesn’t see cruise duties too much anymore. I’ve been infected with a pretty deep case of “bracket racing”. If it went 500 miles this year, 496 of them were within the Pacific Raceways Property.
Oh ok. Maybe I'll see you next year at Pacific raceways.
 
Excellent to see you making some changes LW, good changes too! Will keep an eye on your progress.
 
I went with the M1 because it will fit under my hood Tex, which a victor won’t do. Also, my engine operates in a lower RPM range than I think the Victor really fits. Good point .
its funny talking about rev range . With my 440 i shifted@6000trapped about 64/6500 (28x10.5 PBR). With my first 505 shift@6000 trap 67/6900 (28x10.5PBR). Both ran the same Victor intake/carb/heads . When i fitted TF270 and Super Victor/dominator had to raise shift to 6300 as the vert flash moved from 5800 to 6000 (i also went 29.5x10.5PBR around this time)
When i split the 505 i put the TF270 heads,Super Victor/1050 on the 440 and shifted @ 6000 trap about 65/6600 (29.5x10.5 PBR)
Now World 505 same top end shift@ 6500 trap 6750ish .
The extra 90lbs meant 2-300 more in the 2 step and 200 more on the shift . But its a lot safer block.

Tex
 
With the current combo, I shift at 6150 and trap at 6400. We’ll see what the same cam and heads likes breathing through the M1. I’m figuring I’ll shift about same, but with deeper gearing it will have to stretch out a little more at the big end. Calculators say I’ll gain about 220 RPM with the gearing and tire change. (From 28” PBR’s and 4.10’s to 4.56’s and 30” PBR’s).
 
its funny talking about rev range . With my 440 i shifted@6000trapped about 64/6500 (28x10.5 PBR). With my first 505 shift@6000 trap 67/6900 (28x10.5PBR). Both ran the same Victor intake/carb/heads . When i fitted TF270 and Super Victor/dominator had to raise shift to 6300 as the vert flash moved from 5800 to 6000 (i also went 29.5x10.5PBR around this time)
When i split the 505 i put the TF270 heads,Super Victor/1050 on the 440 and shifted @ 6000 trap about 65/6600 (29.5x10.5 PBR)
Now World 505 same top end shift@ 6500 trap 6750ish .
The extra 90lbs meant 2-300 more in the 2 step and 200 more on the shift . But its a lot safer block.

Tex
—-
Your trap RPM reminded me of my top end layover problem that I was experiencing for the last year plus. I did have a fuel system that was too small. Got that figured out but still had a top end lay over. I found it the last race day. Had a good run going and sure enough it started fluttering at 65- 66 range before the stripe again. Rev limiter was set at 6800. Turned it up to 7100, next pass out, no more layover and straight into the 9.90’s. I dialed 10.0, went 4 rounds. Yeah, something isn’t calibrated right, I’m sure looking forward to next year.
 
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Your trap RPM reminded me of my top end layover problem that I was experiencing for the last year plus. I did have a fuel system that was too small. Got that figured out but still had a top end lay over. I found it the last race day. Had a good run going and sure enough it started fluttering at 65- 66 range before the stripe again. Rev limiter was set at 6800. Turned it up to 7100, next pass out, no more layover and straight into the 9.90’s. I dialed 10.0, went 4 rounds. Yeah, something isn’t calibrated right, I’m sure looking forward to next year.
Malex , i am just conservative on the rpm . As a bracket racer i see little value in wringing the snot out of my motors . And as it is my daily i want some life as well . I had the 440 put together in late 2007 or very early 2008 , never touched the bottom end since , changed cam, intake and heads though . Probably 70000miles or so , sat for 15 months till split 505 then ran for about a year . I have plenty of fuel and limiter is set @ 7300 . Hopefully back on track on the 31st

Tex
 
Malex , i am just conservative on the rpm . As a bracket racer i see little value in wringing the snot out of my motors . And as it is my daily i want some life as well . I had the 440 put together in late 2007 or very early 2008 , never touched the bottom end since , changed cam, intake and heads though . Probably 70000miles or so , sat for 15 months till split 505 then ran for about a year . I have plenty of fuel and limiter is set @ 7300 . Hopefully back on track on the 31st

Tex
---
I'm on the same line of thought as you. I shift at 6200 and run it out to the stripe. With the 4.10's and 96" roll out I never thought I'd get into the rev limiter. Well, if I want to run consistent 10.04 to 10.06 all I need to do is set the rev limiter back to 6800. Ha.
Tex, was it you that had Trick Flow head problems a couple years back? Maybe I'm getting you mixed up with another member.
 
Malex ,
No not me . I have been very happy with my Tflows

Tex
——
That’s good. Yeah a member had bolted a set on OOTB and had problems. I believe it was a tight guide issue. It was unfortunate. Those Tflows sure have proven themselves.
 
You would be amazed at how long the 1/2 shift takes to complete with a factory based valve body. The quicker the car the more rpm between the shift light an the actual shift. The shift takes the same amount of time for the band to grab the drum regardless of ET range. In my case it was close to 800 rpm. The 2/3 range is much closer, about 200 rpm. We even modified the T/A valve body by milling all the 2nd gear servo feed passages larger. It now takes about 500 rpm. Fortunately my shift light is adjustable for different rpm/shift. You guys may want to try 1/2 earlier.
Doug
 
You would be amazed at how long the 1/2 shift takes to complete with a factory based valve body. The quicker the car the more rpm between the shift light an the actual shift. The shift takes the same amount of time for the band to grab the drum regardless of ET range. In my case it was close to 800 rpm. The 2/3 range is much closer, about 200 rpm. We even modified the T/A valve body by milling all the 2nd gear servo feed passages larger. It now takes about 500 rpm. Fortunately my shift light is adjustable for different rpm/shift. You guys may want to try 1/2 earlier.
Doug
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Doug, have you much experience with the manual forward shift valve bodies? Are they as good as the reverse pattern? Edit: i should mention that I’d like to use an old Hurst Auto Stick shifter in my project car, and it’s a forward shift. The current valve body is stock with a TransGo Kit.
 
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thanks Doug , certainly something to think about . I have a Griner rmvb in the footbrake trans and i believe a A1 in the transbrake (current use ) trans .
Sorry for the hijack Lemonwedge

Tex
 
Different valve bodys could vary. But if the valve body started as a factory casting, the fluid has a winding path. This has been documented with a play back tach on 2 different cars.
Doug
 
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