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Stock Oil pan and pressure?

jimbosride

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New 383 in my coronet with about 100 miles on it. It was built and dyno ran before install. When i do a hard acceleration in 3rd gear oil pressure goes to zero. When I let up it goes back to 70psi. So I'm
assuming this is oil starvation? The pan has no baffles. Should I run more than 5 qt of oil?. Engine runs great with lots of power.
 
Last edited:
New 383 in my coronet with about 100 miles on it. It was built and dyno ran before install. When i do a hard acceleration in 3rd gear oil pressure goes to zero. When I let up it goes back to 70psi. So I'm
assuming this is oil starvation? The pan has no baffles. Should I run more than 5 qt of oil?. Engine runs great with lots of power.
I think I would drop the pan and first check to make sure the pickup is at the very bottom of the pan if it’s a stock type pickup then install baffles in the pan. There some templates either here or over on the FABO site that someone posted I’ll look them up and post the link here for you.
 
I had a similar issue but on deceleration.
I installed a Miladon 8 qt pan that has baffles. Problem solved.
 
When it was run on the dyno at high rpm did it have any oil pressure issues? Were the oil and filter changed after break-in?
 
Thanks for the reply ..... didn't think a stock oil pan would have this issue .....

engine1.jpg
 
after dyno they change the filter and cut open the old one to inspect it for bearing (ect) material. then do a pressure test. The oil was change last weekend with Lucas 10 40 ... and a zinc additive ..... I think maybe add another Quart and give it a try??
 
As you can see ...I have posted this pressure issue before on this issue when the engine was being installed .....
 
IMO I wouldn't be comfortable overfilling the oil. If your crank is spinning in the oil then you'll have other problems. I would try the recommended baffle or an easier way is buy the windage tray with the gasket. That has a built in baffle. My engine rebuilder told me to use 10w30 conventional so I was surprized you are using 10w40.
 
after dyno they change the filter and cut open the old one to inspect it for bearing (ect) material. then do a pressure test. The oil was change last weekend with Lucas 10 40 ... and a zinc additive ..... I think maybe add another Quart and give it a try??
I run all stock pan stuff 1 quart over (6 qts).
Found that out through trial and error just like you did. When the engines running, the level goes down, no worries about the crank running in the oil.
Won many bracket championships, ZERO bad bearings.
 
just had the same problem, windage tray from jegs with built in gasket it's fiber glass or plastic, i cut about 6 extra slots mostly above the sump with a cut off wheel to drain the oil back to the pan faster. plus running an extra 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart of oil. don't know why you have 65 lbs of oil pressure with a stock pump unless you changed the spring.
 
Regardless of your pan Capacity, if you're only 1 Qt away from Any interrupted or Reduce oil on pressure gauge from Any driving condition, you're Band-aiding a Serious oiling problem...Drop the pan & double check Everything & Fix the probs .... I've Always run Baffled pans & just never have gauge psi issues....Your hot idle psi Deff seems Really low for a fresh built motor....
 
in 1967 Chrysler started using windage trays in there performance cars, in my Newport no tray or baffle and on take off with the extra power it's now making would uncover the pick up. when running the 1/4 mile at staying at high rpms oil pressure was going down. oil coming back down was getting whipped around by the crankshaft and not getting back down to the pick up so that's why the windage tray. now running a HV pump with 65-75 lbs of pressure adds to the problem. adding an extra 1/2-3/4 quart of extra oil is good insurance and with the tray on there will not hurt any thing. i see no serious problem with the new rebuilt engine itself. 15 lbs at idle is not a problem.
 
10 psi per 1000 rpm is a good rule on oil pressure.
 
Ok ... been driving the coronet and the oil pressure is great when hot or cold and engine run very good. My Question is how long after you start your cold engine does the light
go off and pressure on the gauge ? I think mine takes far to long? ... But I don't remember on my last big block. The oil line to the gauge a larger braided line not the little plastic
tube .... would that make a differences?
 
Are you running a Fram oil filter. I was told they overfilter and reduce pressure. On my Nissan truck with a Fram, the oil light would stay on for many seconds after startup, now with other brands it goes right off.
 
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