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Stroked 383 issues

dcala84141

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On top of my clutch issues which is on the burner right now I have some other serious problems. # 1 Stroked 383 to 450cu. Motor has less than 100 mi. on it. Seemed to developed main seal leak (I will follow the forums on this ) I took the car on expressway and got into it just a little got back to garage and the top of valley pan intake was covered with oil front to back. My other issue is every time I cold start the car it takes 4 or 5 seconds for oil pressure to come up and my roller valve train makes noise after 4 seconds all is fine 60 lbs. pressure. I have a Mellon volume pump. Why is my oil bleeding down? Called Mellon they said faulty oil filter. Changed it not the problem.Anybody have any ideas what is going on?
Much appreciated Bill
 
Do you have your PCV installed properly? 440'
 
Rear main seals are tricky to seal on these. You may have to redo it.
Valley pan oil is likely coming from the top corners of the intake/valley pan where it seals to the block. Could also be wicking up through the intake bolts too I suppose. Hard to say without seeing it
Hydraulic roller or solid roller cam?
 
On top of my clutch issues which is on the burner right now I have some other serious problems. # 1 Stroked 383 to 450cu. Motor has less than 100 mi. on it. Seemed to developed main seal leak (I will follow the forums on this ) I took the car on expressway and got into it just a little got back to garage and the top of valley pan intake was covered with oil front to back. My other issue is every time I cold start the car it takes 4 or 5 seconds for oil pressure to come up and my roller valve train makes noise after 4 seconds all is fine 60 lbs. pressure. I have a Mellon volume pump. Why is my oil bleeding down? Called Mellon they said faulty oil filter. Changed it not the problem.Anybody have any ideas what is going on?
Much appreciated Bill
On my stroked 400, it had leaks due to insufficient gaskets on the intake. It had one gasket and the valley pan. I sandwiched the valley pan between two gaskets and that fixed the geometry and also the leak.
For your valve train (assuming you have hydraulic), you might want to check the preload.
20191128_134200.jpg
 
I would try adding the correct pcv valve to one cover then hose going to the carb base plate large nipple. Pressure build up can push oil past seals and gaskets.
Just grab a napa one and correct grommet. Pretty cheap test before tearing into it.
 
Well on the bright side you may not have a main seal leak, any oil you see underneath is probably seeping down from the top. Oil is pesky and seems to end up in all kinds of weird places...
 
Rear main seals are tricky to seal on these. You may have to redo it.
Valley pan oil is likely coming from the top corners of the intake/valley pan where it seals to the block. Could also be wicking up through the intake bolts too I suppose. Hard to say without seeing it
Hydraulic roller or solid roller cam?
Hydraulic roller
 
17BA43A3-BFB6-477A-BFFC-57A77500E5C4.jpeg
OK I started to rip into the motor
I used the 440 source valley pan with the cut out for the rpm performer intake manifold and individual intake manifold gaskets because my heads are cnc ported and was told u couldn’t use the oemstyle valley pan. Also to note I did not build the motor I had someone else
So I remove the intake and this is what I saw a pool of oil sitting in the cutout
Called 440 source and they said I have to remove the head to install and remove this type of valley pan. Didn’t want to hear this I have roller rockers and lifters so due I just unbolt the rocker shaft or is their a specific sequence I have to follow
Disgusted!
 
I would try adding the correct pcv valve to one cover then hose going to the carb base plate large nipple. Pressure build up can push oil past seals and gaskets.
Just grab a napa one and correct grommet. Pretty cheap test before tearing into it.
I may take up your suggestion after I put this engine back together. I hear u about pressure build up but I know plenty of people not using a pvc valveI also have only 6lbs. of vacuum at idle
 
On my stroked 400, it had leaks due to insufficient gaskets on the intake. It had one gasket and the valley pan. I sandwiched the valley pan between two gaskets and that fixed the geometry and also the leak.
For your valve train (assuming you have hydraulic), you might want to check the preload.
View attachment 1036980
Are your heads ported? What brand of valley pan U used?
 
You probably dont have to remove the heads. I've removed the Indy valley trays more than once. Cut all the RTV with a box cutter. Push the tray rearward and drop the front into the valley. Then it will lift out.
Doug
 
DEE151D1-835A-42B4-9E6F-74F9121A2580.jpeg
You probably dont have to remove the heads. I've removed the Indy valley trays more than once. Cut all the RTV with a box cutter. Push the tray rearward and drop the front into the valley. Then it will lift out.
Doug
I used 440source one of the heads has to b off to install and remove this type valley pan because there is a lip on both sides that goes under the heads
Going to call Indy I just learned I can use theirs
 
View attachment 1037242
I used 440source one of the heads has to b off to install and remove this type valley pan because there is a lip on both sides that goes under the heads
Going to call Indy I just learned I can use theirs
The Indy goes under the heads also. Two pics here. Once you slide it rear ward it drops into the valley.
Doug

0601131439.jpg


20180417_164518.jpg
 
The Indy goes under the heads also. Two pics here. Once you slide it rear ward it drops into the valley.
Doug

View attachment 1037298

View attachment 1037297
So how do u seal along the lengths of the heads?
I suspect that is where I was leaking oil
Also I called Indy and they said there valley pan will not fit my application because I’m using RPM manifold with the heat cross over
 
The entire plate is sealed with RTV. You can check it for leaks before the intake goes back on. Seal all 8 intake bolts by coating them with Teflon sealer and threading them in 3/8" or so. Then plug one breather hole. Fab a fitting to connect low pressure air to the other breather hole. Add 3-5 psi compressed air and pressure the crankcase/valve cover/ valley area. I use my leak down tester to turn the pressure down, but any regulator will work. Spray the sealing area of the motor with soapy water. It bubble at any leaks you may have. Itll find them all.
Doug
 
The entire plate is sealed with RTV. You can check it for leaks before the intake goes back on. Seal all 8 intake bolts by coating them with Teflon sealer and threading them in 3/8" or so. Then plug one breather hole. Fab a fitting to connect low pressure air to the other breather hole. Add 3-5 psi compressed air and pressure the crankcase/valve cover/ valley area. I use my leak down tester to turn the pressure down, but any regulator will work. Spray the sealing area of the motor with soapy water. It bubble at any leaks you may have. Itll find them all.
Doug
Hi Doug I was thinking of pressurizing the motor to check my rear main seal after seeing it done on UTube, but that person used a steam generator to pump steam into the block and check for leakage
I will take up your suggestion and maybe it will knock off two birds with one stone
Thank u so much!
 
It works very well. My racecar runs a vacuum pump so nothing can leak or the pump will suck air. I found very small leaks by this method. Large leaks will push whatever oil was in the leak path out. So if the engine is clean you may see oil running out the leak spot before you ever spray soapy water.
Doug
 
The 440 source pan is your problem...unfortunately they can't seem to make the edges that fit under the heads long enough.

Every one I've seen is like this:
20201209_165537.jpg

20201209_165608.jpg


Sure you have some wiggle room with the bolt holes but closing the gap at one end simply makes it bigger on the other end. I can't understand why they don't make them a little longer and let the end user file/sand/grind them to fit snugly if they end up being a little long. Silicone has it's limitations.
I like 440source but their valley trays are junk.
Oh...Hughes makes a two-piece stainless one that can be installed with the heads on, and it's edges are short at the ends as well. WTF people!
 
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