Take educated guess?

[ChrycoDUDE]

I got to ask, did I read a few pages back were you had pulled the starter ?
did the battery wire get hooked back up ?
I know sometimes I overlook the chit like that ( :

Ya, the starter motor is disconnected from the motor, but still wired.

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

Making progress......but how does this cam part get past the distributor gear? It is preventing the cam to slide out further....

 

[texas69bee]

It's your distributor gear. It comes out. Sometimes going reverse with cam helps it climb out

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

Yeh....just figured it out..haha.

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

Ok. Cam/Lifters are in. I noticed however none of the lifters are rotating when the cam is turned to simulate a running condition. However there is no "binding", the rotates nice and smooth and went in with hardly any effort..i.e. nothing got nicked (we slopped the cam lobes and bearing faces up good, lol). I thought these little guys were supposed to twirl around in there holes, hehe. Also, trying to line up the timing dots on the cam sprocket and the crank sprocket gears...I assume the crank shaft "0" is turned to match the cam sprocket "0". Pics...

 

[BeatersRus]

dude,seriously,have you Pulled that engine oil pan off yet and Cleaned it?
you had a cam failure all that needs to be cleaned thoroughly.
otherwise it can fail again with all the old shiznit running thru the oil.
deffo check at least the oil pump pickup too.....

and theres a bunch of dirt poised to fall into your distributor hole as well....

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

It wasn't a cam failure, more like one lifter collapsed. Yeah, that oil pan is next after all this. The dirt if I disturb it is gonna drop right thru that whole there...its not dirt either, more like greasy gunk that sticks to everything. None of it will dislodge if I don't mess with it. Once I try to grab or clean it off....straight into the hole.

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

oK update...

Cam and lifters are in. No bearing destruction involved during the install, lol. Actually with all the cam lube it went in almost hassle free. The motor was spun over as it was set up for No.1 cylinder (piston) to be at the top of its compression stroke and the "groove" marking on the balancer lines up properly with the "0" on the timing tab. Now I am a bit confused about the distributor gear. We pulled the distributor out before hand but left the distributor gear in place...it didn't want to come all the way out anyways, it moved up a bit just enough to permit the cam removal/install process. Pushing it back down in place will it automatically sync up with the teeth at the end of the cam shaft when the motor spins over? Or no. Right now it is not in contact with the cam teeth...is it pushed back in to place?

After the top is all buttoned were gonna pull the pan and dump all the old oil (but not in that order, hehe). Thanks for all the suggestions so far =)

 

[texas69bee]

If the distributor gear won't come out all the way, don't go any further till you know why. Finish pulling it all the way out and inspect the bushing and shaft. When it's out, notice the end of the shaft. This has to line up perfectly with your oil pump in order to receive it (sync). It's not in all the way until gears are meshed together. Slot in your pic is correct... Front to back. ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE

 

[texas69bee]

That distributor gear also needs to come out so you can prime the. System before start up. You need one of these.http://m.summitracing.com/search?keyword=Oil pump priming tool

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

Yeh, got one of those...er, the mopar performance version. That distributor gear just will not pull out...I worried about damaging something by yanking on it super hard...for some reason it will not budge out (spin, yes). It feels like I might have to "pry" it out if I have to pull it. It HAS to come then? I did nothing with the oil pump.

- - - Updated - - -

.........about as far as it will go

 

[texas69bee]

How hard does it spin? If it's that far it should be disengaged with the pump. It should turn freely by now. Keep working it in and out with more oil. Your bushing may be shot. That needs to be out to prime it. This is what you are fighting with. http://m.summitracing.com/parts/dcc-3690715

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

How hard does it spin? If it's that far it should be disengaged with the pump. It should turn freely by now. Keep working it in and out with more oil. Your bushing may be shot. That needs to be out to prime it.

Actually it won't spin by hand where its at, only with flathead screw driver...and it is difficult to turn it counter clock wise,

 

[texas69bee]

Another option is to remove the oil pump and insert a shaft to tap it out.

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

Doesn't that mean pulling motor up of its mount a bit? Jeeez all this that just swap a cam and some lifters...before I know it all be dropping the gas tank, hahaha. Think I'll try and pull it out some way. Will it mesh with the cam gear/teeth when going back in?

 

[texas69bee]

Eventually, when everything is in the correct position

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

The crowd goes absolutely wild

- - - Updated - - -

You can take the red pill, or the blue pill, lol

What are we looking for here?...look pretty dark down there.

 

[texas69bee]

I see the bushing came out with it. Get a new one.

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

I see the bushing came out with it. Get a new one.

Ya, otherwise guess all is ok. Gear teeth look ok, not worn down or anything. Get the bushing, and slip it back in.

 

[ChrycoDUDE]

oK. All buttoned up. Trying to get the timing set up so she'll start. Yesterday we tried and it sounded like she wanted to start but no dice ..plus backfired up through the carb one or twice and out the exhaust once. We are going back to square one. We put motor at TDC on NO.1 cylinder (comp stroke). Gotta figure out how/which way to set up the distributor now....rotor is pointing almost directly at no.1 cylinder.....Getting there...lol.