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The Roach

Don't many body guys ?
now use the 'all metal fillers/with aluminum' or other noniron metals
mixed in them for the deeper fills on seams etc.
that are on top & exposed, after they are welded
where the lead, 'used to be the standard'

My stepdad Bob was really good with lead,
hardly any sanding/molding after, a quick file & done
old-school lost talent for sure

I watched Gene Winnfield do some leading on one of his chops
49 Ford, back in the later 90's, it was cool

I don't think I'd want to be inhaling or sanding on that **** (lead) a lot
having lead particles in the air etc.
I know a few plumbers that had issues from lead/soldering copper joint
or packing black iron pipe rope joints
for decades on end, not sure if from the flux or the lead
later they had no-lead solder, harder to solder but less deadly

anyway carry on
 
Don't many body guys ?
now use the 'all metal fillers/with aluminum' or other noniron metals
mixed in them for the deeper fills on seams etc.
that are on top & exposed, after they are welded
where the lead, 'used to be the standard'

My stepdad Bob was really good with lead,
hardly any sanding/molding after, a quick file & done
old-school lost talent for sure

I watched Gene Winnfield do some leading on one of his chops
49 Ford, back in the later 90's, it was cool

I don't think I'd want to be inhaling or sanding on that **** (lead) a lot
having lead particles in the air etc.
I know a few plumbers that had issues from lead/soldering copper joint
or packing black iron pipe rope joints
for decades on end, not sure if from the flux or the lead
later they had no-lead solder, harder to solder but less deadly

anyway carry on
The stuff was deadly at one time, as you stated, and you're right about all of it.
The one thing about body work that few would believe, is that the best most cars will ever be, is the day it was built. Back in the late 80's or so, it became a law almost, so to speak, that bondo would NEVER again be allowed in or near a Chrysler car facility, period. Chrysler was sued when a NEW car was involved in an accident and the damage area on the car showed signs of bondo. Bondo is and will always be for repairs, new cars are not allowed to be classified as new if they've been repaired. Chrysler lost the suit and it forever changed how new cars were repaired when in system damage occurred. Most everything on the body of a car can be replaced except rear quarters. I watch a van be repaired by hand, that had hit a corner post by a exit door leaving the plant. The whole thing is pulled, straightened and flat filed to brand new. The dentless people came in and setup booths, lights and taught a handful of people how to repair a car to the point that the only other option left would be to scrap it, if they couldn't fix it. NO bondo or skim coat. The car had to be repaired once the born on date is generated, Vin number or report it to Detroit and the federal government as a loss and the Vin number buried. If you find a new car with bondo on it, you've just won the lottery, no such thing as skim coat. Uniprime tank, paint, clear coat and done. Lead was the go to in the early days for all repairs and flaws in the metal. As lead was deemed to time consuming, I watched dozens of side apertures and body parts go to scrap and get charged back to the stamping plant, hammer and flat file only for repairs. Time has made building vehicles an art and now we have quality control, the word quality was really never a big thing in the early days, just look at them and tell me I'm lying....

I got this history lesson on all of this when I needed bondo to fix dents in metal pedestrian doors, door frames and dents in wood that was painted. I had always used it building Advertising displays, drys fast and hard. The engineers just laughed and said good luck, never going to happen. After I got it, it was my responsibility to protect it with my life, yeah right. The stories are endless and sometimes scary.

As always Mark, your car looks great and I can't wait for it to touch down on all four and roll out into the sunshine, born again, better than it was on day one!!.......... Ulli
 
I went to see the car today and I asked him why lead instead of fibrous bondo & he told me that the lead was stronger. Plus, those seams are so thick, there’s no chance of lead shrinking over time, unlike bondo.

These are the next spots to rebuild before the Dutchman panel goes in.

IMG_9630.jpeg


IMG_9631.jpeg
 
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I went to see the car today and I asked him why lead instead of fibrous bondo & he told me that the lead was stronger. Plus, those seams are so thick, there’s no chance of lead shrinking over time, unlike bondo.
Lead is stronger and can flex a bit instead of cracking. It bonds better too.
 
Lead is stronger and can flex a bit instead of cracking. It bonds better too.
Absolutely right as far as I'm concerned. Bondo in those areas that were leaded would not last as long as the lead did. The joint is the weakest spot. imo
 
The C pillar seam body filler had cracks in my car when I got my car in 2000. I used filler again but also added frame connectors that limit flex.
 
Every car had joints that were a problem. It's was cost prohibitive to do it right years ago. Their thought is that the car is disposable in so many years. Today, with the cost, they have to last longer, still disposable. LOL
 
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The factory would have used bondo on the quarter to roof joints on a vinal top car. The non vinal top cars got lead. The lead will last longer and hold up better than the bondo. The early 68 cars were done with lead regardless of if they came with a vinal top or not, Some bean counter decided that they could get away with using bondo under the vinal tops and save the company a few bucks on each car.
Curious what the advantage to releading those joints are. Just asking because nobody around here does it, probably because nobody around here knows how. They get welded solid and then covered with fiberstrand filler.

Maybe the lead has some flexibility, just thinking out loud…
 
Maybe the lead has some flexibility, just thinking out loud…
Maybe, but I have owned a couple cars in the past that had issues at the lead joints as well. Probably isn't any product made that is perfect for those areas.
 
Maybe, but I have owned a couple cars in the past that had issues at the lead joints as well. Probably isn't any product made that is perfect for those areas.
I've had several cars that were old school leaded. My last one was my 240Z. The wheel wells were done and after about 8 years you could see the outline of the lead as it lifted from moisture under it. Lord only knows what's under the paint on my 65. I've replaced a 6 inch square on my passenger door. The spot was as big as a dime, but like most cancer, you cut big and get it all. The problem with cancer is, it comes back. Cancer has no medical cure, but with our cars, you just throw more money at it...... they both suck!
 
Maybe the lead has some flexibility, just thinking out loud…
It is a soft metal but there are different hardnesses with it like just about all metals.
Maybe, but I have owned a couple cars in the past that had issues at the lead joints as well. Probably isn't any product made that is perfect for those areas.
Who is doing the lead work has something to do with that also. Also some care more about their craft than others.....some could care less and don't like what they are doing for a living.
 
Is there ANY old Mopar that doesn't rust in the back window corners??? :poke:
My 66 Belvedere still looks pretty good around the window. The bad spot was the left rear footwell and probably because the car took a bit of a hit many years ago and the door seal leaked and being a rubber mat car, the water didn't evaporate. Kinda odd that the car also had factory AC and the right side floorboards are perfect.
 
Looks great!! A day at a time!!
 
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