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The Willomet Charger

Wheelhouse extension done, with overlap from the inner to the outer. These things are time vampires.

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One more piece to fill the front inner corner profile, and then I’ll start to mirror on the other side. But first, it’s time to go deer hunting.

David
 
Christmas Day, again.

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Lots to organize tomorrow, but everything to put the car on its own weight is here.

David
 
What all tools are you using to get it smoothed out after the dolly work, just an english wheel? Your work looks phenomenal!
 
Question don't you have a contract or work for chassis works? And if so did you design these parts for them or did you order what they have off the shelf to fab and fit?
And by the way your fab work is top notch.
 
What all tools are you using to get it smoothed out after the dolly work, just an english wheel? Your work looks phenomenal!
English wheel, slap hammer, and a bit of the shrinking disc. Thanks man. Lots of hours, but I enjoy the work.

Question don't you have a contract or work for chassis works? And if so did you design these parts for them or did you order what they have off the shelf to fab and fit?
And by the way your fab work is top notch.
I don’t have a deal with or work for Chassisworks. I spent about the same as anyone else would to get this gear. It’s all made to measure, so it’s specifically for my car. Appreciate the kind words.

David
 
None of what I said was about money, it all was about your fabrication. I thought I read somewhere they hired you because of your talent. I thought some of those parts was something you designed that’s all maybe my comments were unclear. Sorry for the confusion. Jesse
 
None of what I said was about money, it all was about your fabrication. I thought I read somewhere they hired you because of your talent. I thought some of those parts was something you designed that’s all maybe my comments were unclear. Sorry for the confusion. Jesse
I regret the misinterpretation on my part.

Everything from CW is straight from their catalog. The Fab9 (like all their rear ends) is made to order to my measurements. The front end has a few different width selections, and the torque arm has a handful of different lengths.

I first met those folks at SEMA, and we started up a conversation on how to make one of their Chevelle designs adapt to the Charger. They’re only a few inches different in length and axle placements. But, all that slick stuff is their design, and I really dig it.

David
 
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English wheel, slap hammer, and a bit of the shrinking disc. Thanks man. Lots of hours, but I enjoy the work.


I don’t have a deal with or work for Chassisworks. I spent about the same as anyone else would to get this gear. It’s all made to measure, so it’s specifically for my car. Appreciate the kind words.

David
Thanks, I'm looking into buying some metal shaping tools since I tend to be shaping metal often but didn't know what piece to start off with? So you don't use a blanishing hammer? Watching videos it looked like it would work great for smoothing out metal in tighter areas?
 
Kind of depends what you want to do; a plenishing hammer is awesome for smoothing out metal, creating domes, etc. however it does have limitations. An English wheel can do the same but so much more, but both have their place. My favorite piece of metal shaping equipment is my bead roller.
 
Patience is the key for sure. There’s no fast way (I don’t think) to do any of this very well. It’s lots of incremental steps, none of which are too hard, but do require prolonged focus for an amateur like me to get the kind of results I want.

I listen to books or Jazz while I work. That keeps me in a zone.

David
Just getting caught up and I have to say you put a lot of professionals to shame. Impressive skillset and patience as mentioned before. This will be an amazing car when done.
 
I'm looking into buying some metal shaping tools since I tend to be shaping metal often but didn't know what piece to start off with? So you don't use a blanishing hammer?
I plan on buying a pneumatic planishing hammer. It will do all the same stuff as body and slap hammers, but far faster and it gives you a little leverage that comes with that “third hand.”

If you’re building one or two cars, I’d favor a planishing hammer. It’s great for small to medium sized area work, like fender flares, weld seams, and so on. I just scored the English wheel for free, and ended up getting it first. It take up a lot of floor space, and I’d sooner recommend the hammer for a space efficient tool.

Whatever you choose, just get started making stuff. Experience is a great teacher, and you don’t need more than a few YouTube videos to get going.

a plenishing hammer is awesome for smoothing out metal, creating domes, etc. however it does have limitations.
They’re powerful tools, no doubt. To me, it’s just a matter of which you get first. Hard to go wrong with either.

Just getting caught up and I have to say you put a lot of professionals to shame. Impressive skillset and patience as mentioned before. This will be an amazing car when done.
That’s high praise, and means a lot coming from you. I’ve always dug your work, and taken my share of inspiration from it. Thank you.

David
 
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Everything is sorted, paperwork is cataloged, and parts are stowed. These are just some photos of a few of my favorite components.

Wide track arms will make for a 60" wide front end, their widest dimension available. This also confirms the notion that a charger is a factory widebody. Also, the front unit bearing is an evolved version of a C6 Z06 made to handle lots of side load from slinging heavy cars around on sticky rubber.

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The rear unit bearing is the same as the front with a different flange for the floater Fab9.

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Rear 35 spline chromoly shafts.

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24" trailing arms. Their longest and lightest available.

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48" torque arm. This is one size longer than their 39" for a Chevelle.


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Also, I forgot to order the watts link, like a dummy. I'll get that incoming next week.

David
 
Thanks for the input, think I start with the planishing hammer since everything I'm doing at the moment won't fit in and English wheel.

Love watching your build come together, great motivation.
 
Back to work.

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I’ll slice the front and extend the material to match the “torque box” frame section.

David
 
Profile adjusted.

It’s only about 3/4” wider, but I cut in this larger section to avoid blending two welds so close together.

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David
 
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