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Time to hit the Track.

looking good malex keep it coming.
 
Had the welding helmet on today and making a little more progress.

Today I weighed both the complete Leaf / Cal Trac set up and the complete ladder bar set up.
COMPLETE LEAFS / CAL TRACS: 106 LBS
COMPLETE LADDER BAR SET UP: 77 LBS. (Chrome Moly Bars)
Shaving close to 30 Lbs off by switching over to Ladders.

Upper shock and front cross members are ready for some paint.
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Housing brackets are on and boxed.
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Got to lay a fresh coat of paint on the diff as well. Wait - take a look at those studs...
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1/2" studs should be adequate, no idea what brand these screw in studs are. The wheels came off ok, guess they spiraled off.. Glad I didn't lose a wheel and now I need to check and see what the axles look like..
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My studs are only 1/2". Just make sure you torque them. Once they're torqued after a few passes they tend to stay that way. By the way where the rear of the ladder bar mounts as far as height makes no difference. More of a convenience for floor clearance. We've found the 36" length to be a good choice on mine. You can triangulate the shock mounts with a piece of 3/8" tube at a 45 angle.
Nice gussets. Use short welds and let it cool. You can pull the housing around a fair amount.
Doug
 
Malex, them studs look like a bunch of broken fingers. :D
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Isn't that the truth! I guess I was getting some good hook! I always check my wheel nut torque between rounds, they must be made out of chinese steel. I'm going to replace them with ARP studs. I'm hoping I can get them to straighten before unthreading them, otherwise I'll cut them off flush with the axle.
 
We had this issue with my sons turbo car. The cause was lack of surace area where the wheel contacted the rotor. It runs steel wheels. Was solved by welding a plate to the rear of the wheel to increase contact. The wheel is driven by friction between the wheel and the rotor, not the studs. Studs bend when there is insufficient friction between rotor/drum and the wheel causing the wheel to push against the stud. This is determined by surface area and clamp load from the stud. Simple, either the surface area was insufficient or the studs were loose or stretched.
Doug
 
We had this issue with my sons turbo car. The cause was lack of surace area where the wheel contacted the rotor. It runs steel wheels. Was solved by welding a plate to the rear of the wheel to increase contact. The wheel is driven by friction between the wheel and the rotor, not the studs. Studs bend when there is insufficient friction between rotor/drum and the wheel causing the wheel to push against the stud. This is determined by surface area and clamp load from the stud. Simple, either the surface area was insufficient or the studs were loose or stretched.
Doug
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Thanks Doug, amazing how those steel wheels was the problem. In my case, the wheels were always tight, studs screwed in all the way. But looking at it close today it appears that it was my error.
There is 2 sets of holes in the rotors. The set not being used are the 1/2" holes. The studs are protruding through the 5/8" studs holes. The extra space must be enough to have let the studs bend. The error was mine. New studs, 1/2" holes used and problem will be gone.
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On another note, a couple of cross members got welded into place today.
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Ladder bar upgrade is done. Will be a different car come next year. Can't wait to hit the track next year.

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You do not mess around. Great job my friend. I am sure you will be very happy with new results.
 
You do not mess around. Great job my friend. I am sure you will be very happy with new results.
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Thanks Wooks! It turned out pretty good. Doing all the mock up with the leafs still in place sure helped. Got to get it back to race weight now and then fine tuning. I admit that I need to do some research on set up.
 
And painted too... Looks great and moving along smartly. Nice job Malex. :thumbsup:
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Thanks! Yes the painted crossmembers... I don't have my temporary paint booth set up these days so what I did was convert my wheel barrow to a cross member jig. Rolled them out behind the shed, run a couple lengths of air hose, base coat with fast reducer and a coat of clear followed and back into the garage.
 
Ladder bar installation is complete and the Plymouth is in hibernation for the winter.

All in place, ladder bars set at 2 degrees downward and 3 degrees pinion angle.
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ARP wheel studs have been installed and winter storage tires are on. I had earlier mentioned that I had my wheel studs in the 5/8" stud holes in the rotors. Turns out that the other holes in the rotors were for 4-3/4" bolt pattern, so I was using the correct holes. I was torquing my bolts to 90 lbs, will be increasing that come next year, at least 110.
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The ladder bar look is good.
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The 64 is put away and the Donation Dart project rolled in.
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Metal work / replacement will be both front half floor boards, a small amount of trunk floor repair, mini tubbing, quarter panel skins on both sides, stretching the rear wheel openings, frame connectors and a roll bar.


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And I dragged out the rotisserie today and will be hanging the winter project onto it the next few days..
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SO, being this is not a B body, I guess this thread is pretty much done until the '19 season.
 
Stance of the car looks great!
 
Malex, it appears you have your offseason all planned out. Your '64 looks ready and willing to give you those magic numbers, in the spring. Nice job. :thumbsup:
Bob :moparsmiley:
 
Malex, it appears you have your offseason all planned out. Your '64 looks ready and willing to give you those magic numbers, in the spring. Nice job. :thumbsup:
Bob :moparsmiley:
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Have a great winter Bob! Yes I have the off-season all planned out! After hours parking underneath.

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