• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Torque strap

I drilled a hole through the top of the diver side frame rail and installed a sturdy size eye-bolt. Then attached to a front bolt of the block (440) with an matching size turn-buckle to the eye-bolt. This set up gave me the flexibility to adjust it slightly loose for daily driving, then less tight for racing.
 
I use poly mounts on mine. Zero movement when you rev the motor But I will use a torque strap also just in case.
 
I always make my own, the Schumacher ones are nice but there isn't any rocket science in there and as it relates to projects this has to be one of the easiest to do. You do not need to make ones using heim joints or anything fancy, there are lots of alternatives (turn buckles, chain, flat stock, etc.). I do usually use heim joints because I can and we have a local lumber store that has an amazing supply of fasteners to include joints.
 
I used a solid mount on one side for a few years....couldn't wait to get rid of it. Vibration and noise was terrible.
Nothing wrong with good quality NEW rubber mounts.
 
Fyi, if you have poly mounts, inspect them.
Poly mounts suck, they have an inherent design flaw.

Imagine them without the poly, the two metal sides of the mount do not touch, but you could slide them apart. The idea, I think, is they will stretch to a point, and stop.

The problem is the direction of the slide is up/down, and as you know when torque is applied, the left side of the engine wants to twist up, and the right wants to twist down.

I've gone through 3 sets of poly mounts, all warrantied by Schumacher. After the first time, they asked me to make heat shields, which I did. In my case it shouldn't matter because the left mount is in the front, far from the header.

I also have Schumacher headers, and they wouldn't warranty the mounts unless I did. I also have a chain, 2 actually, as there is no torque strap for a BB a-body.

With a tr and a hole in the hood it was obvious when the right mount failed because when opening the hood it would make contact with the carbs on the right side. Engine shows no sign of movement when revving it with the hood open, or when driving it.

The reality is both mounts failed no matter what.

A friend told me he had the same mounts and had no issues. I noted his motor isn't through the hood, so it wouldn't be obvious. A close inspection showed the same as mine.

2 different mounts pictured, both are the left side.

20170617_153501.jpg 20190531_190004.jpg
 
My mounts are a million years old, I should put a chain!
 
Matthon; were those pics of Schumacher poly mounts? I ran his poly’s for a while until I noticed my deep oil pan tilting. My drivers side mount had torn, but not separated. He was great over the phone, trading my two poly tranny mount for the engine mounts. I installed my old rubber mounts in the chassis/engine brackets and welded them together with metal. Doesn’t vibrate bad.
 
Did a bailing wire fix at the drag strip one night when a stock mount broke on my 340 car. Was just going to go home until a buddy said no and gave me a roll of wire. Placed a couple of small jack stands under the tail of the flat bed trailer and drove the front end of the car up on it then removing the ramps, the 'sewing' job commenced. Made several passes that night and actually left the wire fix on it for nearly a month before finally fixing it right.
 
Matthon; were those pics of Schumacher poly mounts?

Yes. Both had 'slid' and caused the engine to tilt towards the passenger side.
There was no visible movement of the engine when driving it, they were still together, but had moved and would not move back.
I actually cut one apart to see what's up, and it was a pain to do so.
Just poor design.
 
I was reading here about Schumacher closing up recently and a number of people wondering where they could get a torque strap. Might l suggest they make their own. I made mine out of a piece of thick wall tubing, threaded it the size of the Heim joint of your choice. I welded a mounting tab onto a piece of flat stock and drilled a few holes and "Bob's Your Uncle" l bought a mig welder shortly after buying my car and getting some quotes for body work. Let me tell you, that welder has paid for itself many times over.

View attachment 901014
View attachment 901008
Look up S&W Race cars, I've bought many parts from them including kits with tubing you can cut to length, weld in threaded ends , Hiem joints and spacers, etc. you can get everything you would want or need to build a variety of supports or brackets to fit anywhere - I built a few for my cars and they are pro race pieces so they look great ! I run a mid plate and needed support front to back as well and they have anything you could need or they can make it if you're not up for it.
 
Go to S&W , you can get a kit w/tubing, threaded inserts and heim joints, weld or bolt tabs on K wherever is good, if you don't weld you can take tubing to a friend once you measure & cut length you need, have him install threaded inserts and bolt it on - you'll have adjustment like your tie rod ends / I made several / but since I put front & mid plates this time around I didn't need them - you don't need Schumacher for that part, it's only a straight rod ( no rocket science involved ) even if your car is a rocket ? - LOL
 
Go to S&W , you can get a kit w/tubing, threaded inserts and heim joints, weld or bolt tabs on K wherever is good, if you don't weld you can take tubing to a friend once you measure & cut length you need, have him install threaded inserts and bolt it on - you'll have adjustment like your tie rod ends / I made several / but since I put front & mid plates this time around I didn't need them - you don't need Schumacher for that part, it's only a straight rod ( no rocket science involved ) even if your car is a rocket ? - LOL
S&W? Smith & Wesson does sound like what you were thinking guns. What S&W were you talking about.
 
Last edited:
 
Has anyone here had any torque issues with spool type motor mounts?
Mike
 
When I worked a CHRY PLY dealer 69 to 73 we sold 73 ply Furys to the PD. They traded in 68 dodge coronets. I seem to remember the police package had a strap of steel, kind of an upside down J hook, bolted under the left motor mount bolt and it hooked over the bracket between the block and the mount ...
 
Then install a machine screw all the way through it and put a self locking nut on the other side with about an eight inch slack.
"Eight inch slack"??
Holy crap Jerry, I'd think all sorts of bad things would happen before that rascal got tight?
Visions of air cleaners bashing up against the underside of the hood, trans/clutch linkages binding
and bending, things like exhaust getting bent....
 
I got a question (that's sure to be subjective as hell) of everyone:
How much HP and/or TQ does an engine need to be making before one doesn't trust the stock
mounts and feels the need to install something more?
 
"Eight inch slack"??
Holy crap Jerry, I'd think all sorts of bad things would happen before that rascal got tight?
Visions of air cleaners bashing up against the underside of the hood, trans/clutch linkages binding
and bending, things like exhaust getting bent....
Sorry 1/8" slack.
 
I got a question (that's sure to be subjective as hell) of everyone:
How much HP and/or TQ does an engine need to be making before one doesn't trust the stock
mounts and feels the need to install something more?
I don't have a TQ number for my roadrunner but based on 1/8 et's she has produced in the past I'm around 525 at the rear wheels and I wouldn't dare trust my engine mounts alone without the torque chain.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top