The drive shaft was part of the whole kit. $5978 to my door! The underside of the back end of the console. I took ABS glue and smeared it on the console, then stuck a piece of 1/8" thick plastic sheeting to add some stiffness. I have another console that is cracked in the same spot! Time to install the drive shaft. I grabbed the Locktite... The trans end was a tight fit. The rubber boot on the tailshaft housing looks like it is tighter than I'd expect. I hope this doesn't pose a problem. I lubed the outer polished part of the yoke with assembly lube. The other drive shaft sometimes made contact with the edge of one of the mufflers. Because of this, I was curious if this larger diameter "propeller shaft" would be worse. It clears by more than enough. Awhile back I had the RH tailpipe out to make a few clearance dents. Maybe I somehow accidently made some room? Old drive shaft:
The console top plates have been painted. I attached the center vinyl inlays....The stuff should be dry enough to install tomorrow. LOVE the look of that shifter!
i was keeping fingers crossed for you so that you didnt have to mod the exhaust around the new driveshaft...its beefy. watermelon
The console in my 70 RR had the crack in the same exact spot. When I converted it from auto to a 4 speed, I eliminated the console.
Loving all this attention to detail, the care taken in doing a good job and documenting all the little things as Greg goes.... *SCREEECH!* Uhhhh, did you say "electric trunk release"? Awwww, dat's so precious!
I will take some pictures of my conversion. There may be two items you may consider and one you really should.
Perhaps check it through full suspension travel. Mine will sometimes touch my x-pipe at the fully unloaded position, but doesn't anywhere else. Maybe there is a spot in your suspension travel where they might touch?
Today was a detail day. I cleaned and reinstalled the left side fresh air vent, cleaned the parking brake lever and repainted the black section of it. The console was assembled and installed. I had a bit of trouble with the forward console top plate. With it attached and slid forward as much as I could, there wasn't enough gap to allow the console door to close. These pieces all came from different cars, maybe even different years so who knows if there were some slight variances. I had to slot the mounts to allow me to slide the plate forward another 1/4". Please forgive the dirty carpet.... I know that some won't like the loss of the chrome finish but I like it. I was aiming to make it look a bit more modern looking. I found the shop vac.... Seats are in. I finished connecting up the wiring that was rerouted way back in the beginning. The Wife offered to help bleed the clutch but I wanted to have all the other details finished. I am amazed that I haven't had more trouble with lost hardware. This is a big project to do so it is common to lose stuff. I do have spares but it is better to be able to reuse the same screws, nuts and bolts from before.
You could always use a grey or graphite color to highlight the edges of the top plates that used to be chrome if you think the console looks like it's too much black. The color contrast would bring out the detail of the tops without being too blingy like chrome. Seeing it all black,it seems to get lost between the seats.
I actually like it. It turned out exactly the way that I wanted.. I am closing in on the final steps here unless something unexpected happens. By Saturday, I'm hoping to be taking the first drive with it.
Yeah, if I decide that I want to either return to stock or if I want a different look. It is easier changed than painting a car!
The clutch switch arrived today. Pretty simple really. I would just have to put that thin lever in the path of the clutch pedal. I would probably change the plug since I don't have the other end to match this one. In the meantime, I rigged up a ground wire for the brown wire terminal on the starter relay. The car starts and runs! No leaks so far. The gauges work. I don't know about the speedometer. The 727 had a matching speed sensor to signal the Dakota Digital speedometer. The Tremec also has a speed sensor but I don't know what may be different. The guys at Dakota Digital said it would work but me being electrically "challenged", I'll have to drive it to be confident. Calibration is pretty easy though. I have a calculated mile near the house. I press one button, drive the mile, then press another button. Done. The following is not for the purists or the squeamish.... I know that many here like the stock stuff for their cars. I usually do too but I had to do this car my own way. Aftermarket gauges, steering wheel, seats and the Tremec and console....all a deviation from stock but meant to make the car more to my liking.
Bleeding the clutch master cylinder..... The bleeder screw is pointed upside down, which does puzzle me a bit. It is the only way that it could be mounted though and it matches the assembly pictures.
