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Trick flow 240 Heads with Factory Six Barrel Intake

i have built a 505” Trickflow 240 engine that retains the oeiginal Six Barrel cast iron intake manifold and carbs. The block was just cleanup decked. It runs very well and we dynoed it with both a Holley Street dominator Intake with Holley 850 and then with the Sixbarrel setup with factory air cleaner.

The results were:
Street Dominator
635 lb ft @ 4400 rpm
594 hp @ 5400 rpm


Factory iron Six Barrel w/ factory air cleaner installed
608 lb ft @ 4300 rpm
576 hp @ 5400 rpm


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Good to know, thanks for sharing.
 
You both are welcome. Here is another pic to show little more detail:

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You both are welcome. Here is another pic to show little more detail:

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I'm starting to wonder if I'm headed in the wrong direction. I want to retain my factory HP manifolds. I have been giving so much grief over that one detail but it's what I want...stock appearing but runs way harder than it does now. I'm trying to find a good compromise. We built my 440 28 yrs ago to stock spec and it's tired. I have a different standard bore 440 I'm going to start with for this next build.

With that said, those heads are super efficient. In my case, would it make sense to use them if I'm not utilizing headers? I understand the HP loss but I'm not bracket racing. I'm super conflicted on this build.

Bill
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Like I said earlier, you need to make some decisions. More head flow always helps, even with manifolds. Ported Stealth heads can get you 500+ easy enough, and they look original. The right cam is the important choice.
 
Like I said earlier, you need to make some decisions. More head flow always helps, even with manifolds. Ported Stealth heads can get you 500+ easy enough, and they look original. The right cam is the important choice.
Yes, my friend is running the stealth heads on his GTX and with them painted they look identical to factory. But if I spend $1,000 on a head that's ported, I would expect the valve job to be correct. Every post I've read says they're great heads but you've got to finish the valve job. I've seen the pictures, I just don't understand why they're not ready to go for that price.

I guess that was also part of my thinking. If I'm going to spend the money, why not spend a couple more hundred dollars on a set of trick flows that are ready to go.

Bill
 
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Call Modern Cylinder Head. Have them get you a set of Stealths and they will CNC port them and make the valve grind right for about the same as the TF heads.

I made 570 hp with these heads, six pack and manifolds.

Or buy the TFs.
 
I'm confused. You're going to use TF heads for the power, but you're using ex manifolds for a stock look.
 
But if I spend $1,000 on a head that's ported, I would expect the valve job to be correct. Every post I've read says they're great heads but you've got to finish the valve job.

You don’t “have to” have the valve job reworked……just like you don’t “have to” build a stroker, or use aluminum heads.
If you run the stealths ootb, you’re leaving flow, and with that, potential power……..on the table. The choice is yours.

IMO, the TF’s are a much better bang for the buck.
 
Thanks for all the information. That's where I'm at right now, information gathering on heads.

I just ordered my 500 stroker kit from 440 Source. Because I'm going with a factory look with a lot more punch, I'm now leaning towards Stealth with CNC port and valve job. They will cost as much as trick flows in the end, but part of my build is the look and Stealths look just like 906's. I get it, trick flows flow a bit better than worked over Stealth heads. With what I'm doing, I will never use this combo to it's full potential and I understand the HP loss. I think the big trick will be a camshaft that will work with the exhaust being restricted.

I'm hoping for something similar to the FAST class but not as wild.
 
Here's a photo of my 505 Stroker with trickflow 240 heads painted up to look stock. I had to clearance the baffles in the valve covers to clear the roller rockers.

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Here's a photo of my 505 Stroker with trickflow 240 heads painted up to look stock. I had to clearance the baffles in the valve covers to clear the roller rockers.

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That's awesome! This is exactly what I'm after.

Are you running exhaust manifolds? Hard to tell from the picture.
 
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I too was concerned about hood clearance and somewhat stockish/day 2 look for the 440 in my 68 Charger. Im running the numbers block so I didn't want to get too crazy. I am using stock crank, forged rods and pistons. I have Stealth heads that I had ported and a valve job done on, Comp Pro Magnum rockers, Comp 284 cam, CH4B intake and an 850 Holley and TTI headers. I chose to stick with the CH4B intake because I wanted to run the stock kickdown linkage and have hood clearance with the stock air cleaner. Anyways, the engine made 530hp/530tq on the Dyno. Engine builder said I'm giving up 20-30 hp by not going to a Performer RPM intake, but I'm not going to be racing the car and would rather have hood clearance and stock air cleaner etc. I feel like 530/530 will be plenty of grunt on the street with 3.23 gears and an auto...
 
Ya that's my hope.

I was super disappointed when the super victor intake on the 408 wouldn't sit correctly with those heads and the intake gasket. Even if we ran a super thin gasket, the gap between the block and intake was way too much to try and fill with goo. Granted they are different manufacturers, but I guess that's just part of engine building. After we milled the super victor, I was able to use the intake gasket, the holes lined up properly and we had the gap we were looking for between the block and intake. I just have zero interest in milling my cast iron intake...won't do it LOL!

Bill
Was your 408 LA or Magnum based? The Magnum block has a lower deck height, and requires the intake manifold to be milled to fit, no matter what heads you run
 
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