valves floating?

[daytona kid]

I've also been wondering if I may have the wires going to the ballast plugged on wrong. Anyone know how I can check those?

 

[66Satellite47]

Does the ign module/box need to be grounded to the car/frame? A bud said yes and now I wonder if that's true if my stainless firewall panel is not letting it ground good. I put foam seal strips under the ss to waterproof in between the it and the original firewall , ss screws holding it on also. Does stainless conduct/ground ok for this situation?

My Mopar box needed a GOOD ground.

 

[66Satellite47]

I've also been wondering if I may have the wires going to the ballast plugged on wrong. Anyone know how I can check those?

View attachment 987158

Check both resistors, see if they're the same. Some of the Mopar boxes needed different resistance between start & run. You need the wiring diagram for your box.

 

[Bee1971]

Dual Ballast

One side will bee 5 ohms - Was used on the 5 pin ECU
Will just lead to nothing on the 4 pin ECU and is not needed anyway

The 4 pin ECU grounds thru the case

Other side of Dual Ballast should bee 1.2 ohms

Car in run position , engine running , charging system working
You should have 14/14.5 Volts on the one side of Ballast - Brown/Blue

Probably around 6 - 9 Volts on the other side of Ballast and the same at positive side of coil - Blue

 

[Bee1971]

If the ECU is not grounded

Car will not start , and probably destroy ECU

 

[66Satellite47]

Dual Ballast

One side will bee 5 ohms - Was used on the 5 pin ECU Ground
Will just lead to nothing on the 4 pin ECU and is not needed anyway

The 4 pin ECU grounds thru the case

Other side of Dual Ballast should bee 1.2 ohms

Car in run position , engine running , charging system working
You should have 14/14.5 Volts on the one side of Ballast - Brown/Blue

Probably around 6 - 9 Volts on the other side of Ballast and the same at positive side of coil - Blue

FYI, My Blue box 5 pin P3690256 grounds through the case. Not sure about the 4 pin or aftermarket versions.

 

[Bee1971]

FYI, My Blue box 5 pin P3690256 grounds through the case. Not sure about the 4 pin or aftermarket versions.

Yes

They all ground thru the case

I should of clarified that

5 pin or fifth pin itself ECU was a regulated voltage

4 pin ECU got rid of that

 

[daytona kid]

My orange box that came with the proform conversion/dist kit is a 4 pin, so I got the 4 pin blue hi-rev box. Haven't put it on yet, kinda scared I might fry it if all else isn't good. It's kinda goofy that the one wire coming off the ballast goes nowhere, or where the 5th pin would be. So that means 1 of the blue wires going to the ballast is going nowhere. I checked the resistance on both sides of the dual ballast and it's good. I put the blue wire that runs to the pos side of the coil on one side of lower side of the ballast with the blue&brown on the other lower side. And the other blue wire and 5th pin wire are plugged to each side of the higher side/top of ballast and I think doing nothing. Does that ballast wire configuration seem right to anyone?....Then I installed the new correct type coil and checked voltage on it. Figured I'd try just swapping the coil to see what happens before the box. Somehow there was a little higher voltage than the msd coil. It was higher with key in run at 4.2, idling was 7.5 and went way up when reved to over 12. Did a test drive. It did seem to run a little better but didn't get a chance to romp it hard to upper rpms. May go out tomorrow and try again before swapping the box.

 

[daytona kid]

I did 2 test rides today. 1st test- still stalling. I talked to a bud who said my voltage on pos side of coil should never be above 12v., and as I mentioned earlier it was going over 12v. So I swapped the blue wires on the ballast and made a 2nd test. The voltage stayed below 12v when reving. 2nd test drive felt a little better running but still stalls. My bud also said that the module boxes will either work properly or not at all so I haven't tried the new blue box yet. Do yall think he's right about that? I keep going back to thinking about fuel starvation. I haven't checked the filters in the carb, may have to do that just to make sure they're clean, and ease my mind. Any more ideas guys? Anything else I can check that I haven't?

 

[Bee1971]

Does your ballast resistor white electrical plugs have the pins attached ?
The pins are there so you can’t reverse the wiring , and slide into the holes on the dual ballast

And yes , in the run position you should have 7 - 10 volts at the positive side coil

And yes , there are a lot of ECU s / Ignition modules that fail completely , bad grounds , resistor failed

And a lot of ignition modules that work , but will drop dwell/timing at higher RPMs
4500/5000 RPMs causing misfire

Ignition modules - ECUs / Coils And Ballast Resistors must match

 

[Bee1971]

 

[Bee1971]

You said you have 7 psi at idle

Tape a fuel pressure gauge to your windshield

Plumb it into the fuel line after the filter and it looks like your running a fuel pressure regulator

Reading through your posts again , it looks like you ruled out fuel pressure already with testing , correct

Anyways if you want

Run it up on the street to where your engine starts to miss and verify the psi number


Try that new ECU ignition module with the corresponding 1.5 ohm primary side new coil (Not MSD Blaster) and verify 7 - 10 volts on the positive side of coil when running and get back to us

 

[daytona kid]

I always had single ballast on my old mopars, ffwd 50 years, before I found out there were dual ballasts and I needed one, I made the mistake of cutting the pins off and cut the plugs apart to fit a single ballast, duh. But I did figure out where they are suppose to be on the dual I have now... As I mentioned in post #5, I had a bud watch the fuel gauge while I revved it in neutral til it shuttered to a stop, he said the gauge never moved from the correct psi. I don't think the outcome would be much different while driving. But there still could be trash past the gauge at the carb inlet filter/s and the gauge would still show good. So I'm going to check them next... I haven't tried my new hirev 7500 box yet, but as I mentioned in my last post the pos side of new coil is reading correct now while running, asper those same instruction notes that came with mine. I'll probably try the new one soon.

 

[daytona kid]

Ok, I just got thru checking the fuel inlet filters on the carb and guess what, there are none. Don't know why I didn't remember none came with the carb. So no problem there I guess.. I may have to make a video and show you guys what this thing is doing.

 

[daytona kid]

Tried the new blue box, no improvement... May take the carb off and see if anything doesn't look right, like trash, etc. This quick fuel brawler 750 carb came without power valves and I'm wondering if the jets are big enough. I think these carbs are tested on a 350ci motor and I did have to increase the squirter nozzles size so maybe the jets need to be bigger also. Probably not the problem but I'm running out of ideas..

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Try winding it up to where it dies and instead of pumping it to keep it running..put it in neutral and shut the key off...pull off to the side and look and see if you have gas at the site glass on both bowls. It sure sounds like it could be starving for gas when you have to pump it to keep it running. Maybe you got a bad needle and seat on your new carb and it's not catching up.
Another one that is hard to detect is plug wires with two much resistance. Try pulling a plug out and watch it fire...see if has a weak red spark or a hot white spark. If its weak...need to figure out why.

 

[PRHeads]

As I mentioned in post #5, I had a bud watch the fuel gauge while I revved it in neutral til it shuttered to a stop, he said the gauge never moved from the correct psi. I don't think the outcome would be much different while driving.

Winging the throttle in neutral isn’t really any kind of test to see if the fuel pump can supply enough fuel volume to maintain the system pressure at wot operation for at least about 15 seconds.

Imo.......The taping the gauge to the window test really should happen.

Edit- I reread the post where the fuel pressure test is was done.
Am I understanding this correctly....... you were able to get the motor to stall like it does when you’re driving it....... by revving it in neutral?
And it died at the same 42-4300 rpm range?
If so...... I agree, it’s not likely a fuel issue.

Here’s a test you can try........
Take the air filter off, and hold a piece of string at the carb opening.
Rev the motor up slowly........ you want the end of string to be getting sucked into the carb.
Open the throttle far enough to make the motor die...... see if when that starts to happen if the string gets pushed out the top of the carb........ or is getting sucked into the carb very noticeably less.

 

[daytona kid]

Yes it shudders and dies at about 4300 in neutral or driving. Of course it is easier to keep it from dying when it starts shuddering while driving, with the help/momentum of the car rolling.. The string trick sounds like a good test, may have to try that, thanks, never heard of that one.. Still thinking about and probably about to take the carb off and apart. I saw some vids about that carb having some minor problems from the factory, loose screws inside, etc.. Some of the things I'm checking are not very suspect but easing my mind and checking off the list of all possible causes, even remote ones, is a good thing for me.

 

[PRHeads]

I have no idea if the string test will prove anything or not.

I was thinking of a some way to see if it could be determined by running the motor if the root cause of the problem is mechanical or not........ and that popped into my head.
May work, may not....... but it’s cheap and easy.

 

[daytona kid]

Took the carb apart, or bowls off anyway, everything looked ok. Had a little bit of ethanol dust in the rear bowl and float needle seemed a little sticky. Shot it with some wd40. Kinda doubt that's the prob tho... Here's a question, which of the 2 fittings should I have my vac advance hose connected to? Before or after the butterflies?