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Waking up the beast

A FULL ROLL CAGE is required at 9.99 and will get you down to 8.50.
6 and 8 point ROLL BAR is needed from 11.49 to 10.00 flat.
I put a full cage in from the get go. 1 5/8 chrome moly so as to not have to add to a 1 3/4 roll bar and have different size tubing.
 
A FULL ROLL CAGE is required at 9.99 and will get you down to 8.50.
6 and 8 point ROLL BAR is needed from 11.49 to 10.00 flat.
I put a full cage in from the get go. 1 5/8 chrome moly so as to not have to add to a 1 3/4 roll bar and have different size tubing.
Yep, your right, missed that. Kinda confusing the way they say roll bar is good in all cars to 11.00, then say they're ok to 10.00 in full bodied cars. I assume they're saying altereds, rails, etc. are not full bodied cars.

Section 4A, page 5 Super Pro, Pro, Sportsman
ROLL BAR
Roll bar mandatory in all cars (including T-tops) running 11.00
(*7.00) to 11.49 (*7.35), in convertibles running 11.00 (*7.00) to
13.49 (*8.25), and in all dune-buggy-type vehicles running 12.00
(*7.50) seconds and slower. Permitted in all cars. See General
Regulations 4:10, 10:6.ROLL CAGE
Roll cage mandatory in cars running 10.99 (*6.99) or quicker or
any car exceeding 135 mph. In full-bodied cars, with unaltered
firewall, floor, and body (from firewall rearward, wheeltubs
permitted), running between 10.00 (*6.40) and 10.99 (*6.99), roll
bar permitted in place of roll cage. In convertibles running 10.99
or quicker or exceeding 135 mph, roll cage mandatory. Cars
running between 7.50 (*4.50) and 9.99 (*6.39) must have chassis
recertified every three years by NHRA and have a serialized
sticker affixed to cage before participation
 
Does anyone have any experience with clamping leaf springs? I have seen that some clamp the front half and cut the clip off the back section. I don't have the ss springs,but the xhd ones. Looking to lose a little off my 60 ft. Times.
 
Have you considered Cal-Tracs? I've heard a lot of good about them. I'm assuming you don't have any already from looking at the pics of your car. I have some but a ways from being able to test them.
 
I just want to use what I have for the rest of the year. Racing again on Saturday. Maybe upgrade this winter if money allows.
 
I did this years ago with Mopar S/S springs.
2 clamps on the front of each side and removed the rear clamp.
Picked up a couple of hundredths and more consistency.
Also had C/E shocks set at 50/50 and pinion snubber set up at rest with 1 inch from the floor.
Not sure what you might gain with those springs though. Had them on my Belvedere when first put together but have since moved on to Caltrac monoleafs, QA-1 shocks and Caltrac bars.
 
I did this years ago with Mopar S/S springs.
2 clamps on the front of each side and removed the rear clamp.
Picked up a couple of hundredths and more consistency.
Also had C/E shocks set at 50/50 and pinion snubber set up at rest with 1 inch from the floor.
Not sure what you might gain with those springs though. Had them on my Belvedere when first put together but have since moved on to Caltrac monoleafs, QA-1 shocks and Caltrac bars.

Just something to try out for now. Maybe do a caltracs/ mono leaf over the winter.
 
Yep just use some 1/4" by 1.5-2" I did this back in the day. Cheap and your not out anything if it doesn't work. Also can try lowering the back end to help weight transfer.
 
Will this work without an adjustable snubber? I never put one in.
 
Just something to try out for now. Maybe do a caltracs/ mono leaf over the winter.


Save your money and ladder bar it right from the start. Don't waste your time with caltracs. I got an in with Chassis Engineering for what you need.
 
We'll have to talk Saturday after I beat you.
 
I'll even give you a head start.
 
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