Wheel hop, whats your solution?

[idrivemopar]

So I got my carb dialed in and was out hot rodding,um testing out the new configuration, and did a burnout, and noticed that after a few revolutions and as rpm increase I have a little bit of wheel hop. Just wondering if this is tire related, using BFGs and they have pretty good tread so they are hard to break loose.

So I don't think its major enough to warrant traction bars, but wondering what are others doing for a solution?

 

[multimopes]

I am using traction bars myself. I know someone who used a Mopar adjustable pinion snubber mostly for drag racing though and several others who used factory type Super Stock springs. Aaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh. What the hey, just put in a 4 link, it's only a couple grand!

 

[493 Mike]

Clamp the front spring leaves together, use a pinion snubber (1" from floor).
Mike

 

[idrivemopar]

Clamp the front spring leaves together, use a pinion snubber (1" from floor).
Mike

What do you mean exactly about clamping the leaves together? Just wondering is there something specific for this or are you talking about drilling and running bolts through the leaves or using a square bracket around the entire spring?

 

[idrivemopar]

I am using traction bars myself. I know someone who used a Mopar adjustable pinion snubber mostly for drag racing though and several others who used factory type Super Stock springs. Aaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhh. What the hey, just put in a 4 link, it's only a couple grand!

Got pictures of those traction bars?

 

[Dennis H]

Never happened on the Coronet. Rampant on the new Challenger with Hop-Not being the solution for modern Mopar.

 

[GetX'd]

Sometimes you get wheel hop if your rear end is too high. If you’ve raised it -try lowering it a bit then go tear up some more asphalt and see what happens.

 

[multimopes]

I think my traction bars are Lakewood's (they are chrome). I got the on sale from Jegs or Summit years ago. I'll attach a couple pictures but I am at work and only have a few on this machine. They are hard to see. They are directly under the leaf springs. I have used the spring clamps before myself, but not exactly for traction, because I had a broken leaf spring. They are 2 metal plates about 3/8" thick that are just wide enough for the ends to extend to both sides of the leafs; there is a predrilled hole at each end of the plates that you put bolts through that come with the kit. It was cheap, maybe $10 or something. Before you do anything else, try inflating your tires to maximum and see if the hop is better. I have seen results with this sometimes, depending on your tires.

 

[Daves69]

Got pictures of those traction bars?

They came in different flavors back in the day............

 

[Cranky]

Spring clamps can help but in street use, the bolts can sometimes break. Lots of stress on them. If you use traction bars, do not use the short ones. IE, you want the traction bar rubber snubber to land on the spring EYE and not the leaf itself. If you can't find the longer bars, modify the short bars to where that happens....unless you like bent main leafs. With enough power and traction, it can happen.

 

[multimopes]

I have seen and read several times that traction bars don't help much. It has been found, however, that much depends on how they are mounted. To get the most out of them with leaf springs, it is imperative that the front rubber snubber be mounted directly below the front spring eye. Not sure with other applications such as coil springs.

 

[multimopes]

Hey Cranky, you must be a faster typer than me, In was formulating this while you were. I am not sure how much longer the full ones are as I haven't seen the shorties used in decades.

 

[Cranky]

Hey Cranky, you must be a faster typer than me, In was formulating this while you were. I am not sure how much longer the full ones are as I haven't seen the shorties used in decades.

Seems like over the years, short bars are all I've seen that was sold over the counter. The first time I drove a car set up with the longer bars, I never looked back and imo, they work better than the DC snubbers did.

 

[Darter6]

Just a question. Do you still have the rubber leaf spring bushings and the leaf springs mounted in rubber (73-up) ?

 

[multimopes]

That's a good question! In my case mine went back to pre-73 and no rubber isolation but Idrive mopar most likely still has them. Here's a stupid question though. Idrive, I presume your rear is a posi ?!?

 

[Cranky]

That's a good question! In my case mine went back to pre-73 and no rubber isolation but Idrive mopar most likely still has them. Here's a stupid question though. Idrive, I presume your rear is a posi ?!?

Only Chevies came with posi units

 

[idrivemopar]

That's a good question! In my case mine went back to pre-73 and no rubber isolation but Idrive mopar most likely still has them. Here's a stupid question though. Idrive, I presume your rear is a posi ?!?

I am running the Eaton TrueTrac diff.

 

[multimopes]

And I am running for cover as I said the P word...........oooops, my mistake! Pre-senilty setting in as I am officially a senile citizen now! Couldn't recall the proper term; I think a beer or two might help stimulate the blood circulation in my brain (where ever that is!) LOL

 

[bm02tj]

You could add an anti wrap bar kit
just make sure the pivot point is same as the springs
so it does not bind

 

[not so famous bob]

You could add an anti wrap bar kit
just make sure the pivot point is same as the springs
so it does not bind

spring clamps will not stay in place in a hi horse power car either . Tried them on the hemi back in the day, no workie workie.