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Who’s doing what in the off-season.

went ahead and painted my 6 bolt oem valve covers also, will install with 3/8" spacers so i wont have to cut out the interior baffles.

did it mid day in sunny 56f dry weather. before it goes to 40f tonite,,,,Cold!

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orange with a hint of yellow. omaha orange...thanks!

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Looks good, looks right.
I've been trying to get my maxwedge right too. I experimented with two different versions of krylon (pumpkin) but they were slightly yellower than the Mopar race hemi color I had. I was skeptical about the Omaha i got from mazzolini, but it looks like good quality paint, and a dead ringer for the old Mopar race hemi paint.
(I experimented on my maxwege-converted tm7, before I did my heads. The intake, and the rest of the motor is coming.)
 
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Looks good, looks right.
I've been trying to get my maxwedge right too. I experimented with two different versions of krylon (pumpkin) but they were slightly yellowed than the Mopar race hemi color I had. I was skeptical about the Omaha i got from mazzolini, but it looks like good quality paint, and a dead ringer for the old Mopar race hemi paint.
(I experimented on my maxwege-converted tm7, before I did my heads. The intake, and the rest of the motor is coming.)
i had a couple of cans of krylon pumpkin also, beside Mazzolini's omaha it was real close. but in the end i went with Mazzolini's.. No red look to it like the latest MP race hemi paint shows, after a couple of weeks paint searching im done, painted the parts, and moving on....
 
Well a bit more maintenance . I will change the oil in my shocks over christmas/new year . Never changed it and the fronts have been in for 12? years rears 6 or 8 .Plenty of passes and road miles . Might even help the erratic traction issues i have been having this last 12 months .
I am going to use Redline 5W , shocks are QA1 front and Viking rear .

Tex
 
extended the sump of a max wedge pan today, with a 2 1/2" plate the sump is now a hair under 7" deep,,same as any milodon, moroso, charlies, etc that u can buy and this 1 is made for the 62-64 cars, stock baffles with a milodon swinging single line pick up,,,,will measure the capacity with the liquid just touching the baffles.

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welded up and water tite, holds 8 qts filled to the bottom of the baffles.
swinging pick up sort of like the original but better. 7/16 off the bottom. original drain plud used. ready for clean up and paint. will use a summit silicone raised bead gasket this time. sealer only in the 4 problem spots. miller 211 worked great using the stitch method.

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welded up and water tite, holds 8 qts filled to the bottom of the baffles.
swinging pick up sort of like the original but better. 7/16 off the bottom. original drain plud used. ready for clean up and paint. will use a summit silicone raised bead gasket this time. sealer only in the 4 problem spots. miller 211 worked great using the stitch method.

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I wouldn't trust water tight, water has surface tension. You need to test with something like gas or lacquer thinner for fast results. Those to things show porous spots right away. Hate to see you put the pan on and it weeping oil.
 
I wouldn't trust water tight, water has surface tension. You need to test with something like gas or lacquer thinner for fast results. Those to things show porous spots right away. Hate to see you put the pan on and it weeping oil.
Easy enough to pressure test.
RTV a plywood board to it with a tire valve. Pressurize to a couple pounds with soapy water in it. Just like leak testing a tire.
 
I wouldn't trust water tight, water has surface tension. You need to test with something like gas or lacquer thinner for fast results. Those to things show porous spots right away. Hate to see you put the pan on and it weeping oil.
soap and water work ? alot less flammable...thanks.
 
Like to know how works the soap think will relieve surface tension. Did you Tig the pan or Mig? Epoxy the seams might work, I had a weeping leak on a gas tank. Drained tank to below leak let it sit over night, Roughed it up with #80 grit covered it with JB Weld no leak 5 years.
 
Like to know how works the soap think will relieve surface tension. Did you Tig the pan or Mig? Epoxy the seams might work, I had a weeping leak on a gas tank. Drained tank to below leak let it sit over night, Roughed it up with #80 grit covered it with JB Weld no leak 5 years.
mig welded mostly stitch overlap method,,it welded great, just a few weeping areas that have already been addressed with the water method..looking inside the pan it had great penetration with only 1 burn thru that was easily addressed. i seen on MTV that they used tranny fluid after welding a pan..

dont want to use epoxy since its not painted or installed yet.
 
I wouldn't trust water tight, water has surface tension. You need to test with something like gas or lacquer thinner for fast results. Those to things show porous spots right away. Hate to see you put the pan on and it weeping oil.
8 qts of transmission fluid , surface tension ? pic was taken after 3 hours submerged. all good. duct tape is covering the external pick up holes . will leave it that way for a few days when i go back into the shop.

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Will be watching, will rooting for no leaks. Had a weeper on a Milodon pan.
 
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Old school pan in the Challenger I’m working on
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Fabbed up the bracket for the solenoids that bolts to the rear china wall. Made one new line and reused the other.

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Santa came early . Was expecting a ship date of 2/28 as I order them in October! Got the 270s for my 470cu . Just got to port the intake as my builder said it’s wouldnt be a problem with max wedge heads !
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Wheel studs showed up the other day, yes!
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Complete, turned out great.
 
Dyno Max Race Bullets showed up too.
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Welded up and good to go.
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Started thinking about adding an H pipe and next thing you know.

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H pipe is installed.
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Will be interesting to hear if there’s any difference in sound now. The set up is 20” in length. 3.5” pipes and bullets. H pipe is 3”. 13 Lbs total weight. Another fun project complete.
 
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