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Who’s doing what in the off-season.

malex

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Pretty quiet in the Racers Hangout as of late.
It looks like it’s time to do an audit on the gang to see who’s doing what to their Mopars this off season. So this is what’s been going on over at my joint.

I’ve been noticing the last couple race days that my brake pedal seemed lower than usual. So I got to looking things over. I’ve got disc brakes all the way around, the fronts are Wilwood and the rear is a kit from Right Stuff with the E-brake provision. I added a 2LB in-line residual check valve, which has been the fix for this problem in some instances. It seemed to help a little but not enough. One problem with this right stuff kit is that the bleeders on the Calipers are not situated at the very top. So when bleeding the rear brakes I need to partially undo and tip the calipers. With that being done I got into checking the E-brake arm travel on the caliper (GM caliper). That ended up being the problem. A simple adjustment and the brake pedal is now where it should be.
CA68DDCF-ABBA-45F2-94A7-F548B1490F33.jpeg

Would I use this same kit again? Nope. At the time when I was putting the Plymouth together the e-brake was important to have, as the intention for the car was to street drive and the occasional trip to a strip. That plan didn’t last long after a few passes.

Now with that fixed up it was time to get busy at something else, I had a number of things on the list and conveniently, I located and was able to make a deal on a vacuum pump. So that was next on the list. The pump came complete, less crank mandrel and gear. Well you know how one thing always leads to the next, well a new balancer and crank trigger upgrade.
EA591D10-E934-42A4-9A9F-3C95FDBB0BB8.jpeg


After some mandrel shopping and racer buddy (Wookie) suggestions I ended up building a mandrel. Pic partially finished.
84FEB4A4-D5B8-4868-85DD-C2904031848A.jpeg


Ready to bolt on.
99CA5EDB-48A2-4529-AFA5-4F32B277B710.jpeg


Back together. Star Standard Pump. 5” vacuum running.

F9E0424D-179A-4444-BBC6-EB965287BF33.jpeg

A4DA1882-E313-4E44-BE4D-A6B242DB71B3.jpeg


With the vacuum pump comes the need of a vacuum gauge and having to find a spot for that. This is how that ended up.
E380A8F5-6578-4DE7-8466-6F408ACA7C50.jpeg

New set of Painless rocker switches and vacuum gauge in place. No more hard to reach switches and gauges all in full view. Shift light also moved over from beside the tach to dead in front of me.

So with that done…
230924D2-03AC-4F3F-8BC0-F1E311201FEE.jpeg

The transmission is out and in process of freshening. The converter also got sent out for freshening and a good thing that it did. Once apart it was found to have bent vanes and ready to let go. That was a surprise, it never missed a beat, but I guess that’s racing and why we do maintenance. Converter is back and ready.
947854D7-879D-46C9-AB41-98ABBC74F9DD.jpeg


So at this point the 727 is on hold. A&A low-gear set had a loose bushing in the ring gear housing so it got shipped to A&A, who told me that they’ve never seen that before, send it, they will make it right and send it back. The bushing will fall right through, it’s been spinning.
2A1CD42A-9C4C-4CC9-AF42-28F7556F7B68.jpeg


So that’s what’s happening over here. There is also a set of short 3.5” race bullets on order from Summit along with a Strange 5/8” wheel stud kit. On hold waiting for parts now, lots to keep me busy and shorten the winter.

What’s going on elsewhere ? Let’s hear about it.
 
I too sent away the converter for an inspection. As well, the 727 will be opened up for a once over.
5/8” studs in the axles and some wiring.
All among other things.

6EC2DE22-34D6-43AB-A360-0A90074ED9F6.jpeg


DE2D6F31-5A5C-48DE-9F7D-A7405C7F9B6A.jpeg


628C2869-4556-48FC-BA2E-27C225F012B6.jpeg


288728E1-1B03-46B8-98C9-72E44376A1DE.jpeg
 
Did the 5/8" studs last year. Broke a converter this year. Pulled the trans apart to clean any metal (needed nothing except pump gears from the metal). So I'm ahead in those area's. The wheels are being replaced as the rears broke this year. So it looks like 4 new Billet speciaties Street lite. The front shocks were revalved tighter last winter. Now they are too tight. So we'll get that adressed. The rear axle seems a little noisy so an inspection is in order. Oh and an oil change. Not to mention the turbo Duster project. Also a 340 street engine. It's my labor trade for the carbon hood and scoop. Maybe I'll get arond to start narrowing the bumpers for my Volare Road Runner.
Doug
 
I too sent away the converter for an inspection. As well, the 727 will be opened up for a once over.
5/8” studs in the axles and some wiring.
All among other things.

View attachment 1374731

View attachment 1374732

View attachment 1374733

View attachment 1374734
I too sent away the converter for an inspection. As well, the 727 will be opened up for a once over.
5/8” studs in the axles and some wiring.
All among other things.

View attachment 1374731

View attachment 1374732

View attachment 1374733

View attachment 1374734
Hey Wooks - Still stumped over here on our 2 converters. Ours are both built by the same company, both are quality built diode converters, the only difference is mine is an 8” and yours a 9”.
Mine is 2 years newer than yours, far less passes, less HP being put to it, my launch RPM is 3200, less than your launch RPM and mine in a lighter car. Both freshened for the first time, yours looked as new inside, mine needing extensive work. Crazy. The only difference being 8” vs 9”. Maybe the 9” converter is a tougher converter, not sure. I even ran full synthetic oil and changed routinely. Maybe someone else has experienced similar.
 
Did the 5/8" studs last year. Broke a converter this year. Pulled the trans apart to clean any metal (needed nothing except pump gears from the metal). So I'm ahead in those area's. The wheels are being replaced as the rears broke this year. So it looks like 4 new Billet speciaties Street lite. The front shocks were revalved tighter last winter. Now they are too tight. So we'll get that adressed. The rear axle seems a little noisy so an inspection is in order. Oh and an oil change. Not to mention the turbo Duster project. Also a 340 street engine. It's my labor trade for the carbon hood and scoop. Maybe I'll get arond to start narrowing the bumpers for my Volare Road Runner.
Doug
Good choice on wheels, they look great on 64’s. I recall your stud upgrades and the broken converter not too far back. Probably some of the reason for my upgrades this off-season. When I was running the ET torque thrust wheels I did have some very bent 1/2” axle studs though, which I replaced with ARP 1/2” I also increased the torque from 95Lbs to 120LBs with the ARPs. Not sure if it was the ET’s with the conical lugs or the additional lug torque but I’ve had no further 1/2” wheel stud issues.
Have Strange A1041L stud kit on order from Summit, like most parts these days, they are a few weeks away from delivery.
 
Pretty quiet in the Racers Hangout as of late.
It looks like it’s time to do an audit on the gang to see who’s doing what to their Mopars this off season. So this is what’s been going on over at my joint.

I’ve been noticing the last couple race days that my brake pedal seemed lower than usual. So I got to looking things over. I’ve got disc brakes all the way around, the fronts are Wilwood and the rear is a kit from Right Stuff with the E-brake provision. I added a 2LB in-line residual check valve, which has been the fix for this problem in some instances. It seemed to help a little but not enough. One problem with this right stuff kit is that the bleeders on the Calipers are not situated at the very top. So when bleeding the rear brakes I need to partially undo and tip the calipers. With that being done I got into checking the E-brake arm travel on the caliper (GM caliper). That ended up being the problem. A simple adjustment and the brake pedal is now where it should be.
View attachment 1374639
Would I use this same kit again? Nope. At the time when I was putting the Plymouth together the e-brake was important to have, as the intention for the car was to street drive and the occasional trip to a strip. That plan didn’t last long after a few passes.

Now with that fixed up it was time to get busy at something else, I had a number of things on the list and conveniently, I located and was able to make a deal on a vacuum pump. So that was next on the list. The pump came complete, less crank mandrel and gear. Well you know how one thing always leads to the next, well a new balancer and crank trigger upgrade.
View attachment 1374670

After some mandrel shopping and racer buddy (Wookie) suggestions I ended up building a mandrel. Pic partially finished.
View attachment 1374626

Ready to bolt on.
View attachment 1374628

Back together. Star Standard Pump. 5” vacuum running.

View attachment 1374629
View attachment 1374631

With the vacuum pump comes the need of a vacuum gauge and having to find a spot for that. This is how that ended up.
View attachment 1374630
New set of Painless rocker switches and vacuum gauge in place. No more hard to reach switches and gauges all in full view. Shift light also moved over from beside the tach to dead in front of me.

So with that done…
View attachment 1374638
The transmission is out and in process of freshening. The converter also got sent out for freshening and a good thing that it did. Once apart it was found to have bent vanes and ready to let go. That was a surprise, it never missed a beat, but I guess that’s racing and why we do maintenance. Converter is back and ready.
View attachment 1374682

So at this point the 727 is on hold. A&A low-gear set had a loose bushing in the ring gear housing so it got shipped to A&A, who told me that they’ve never seen that before, send it, they will make it right and send it back. The bushing will fall right through, it’s been spinning.
View attachment 1374625

So that’s what’s happening over here. There is also a set of short 3.5” race bullets on order from Summit along with a Strange 5/8” wheel stud kit. On hold waiting for parts now, lots to keep me busy and shorten the winter.

What’s going on elsewhere ? Let’s hear about it.
Hey Malex, anything to report from the year end banquet ?? :thumbsup:
 
Hey Malex, anything to report from the year end banquet ?? :thumbsup:
Hey RemCharger.
Funny that you mentioned that. I didn’t make the banquet but I’ve been told that this happened.
4ED156B5-CB77-4A91-85CA-B3240E780CC6.jpeg

A pretty nice piece of recognition, which I’m honoured to receive.
 
Ya I thought that was pretty cool congrats!

Soooo... nobody brought it back for you?
 
Nice Plaque. My 9"converter had been apart 2 years ago. since then maybe 200 passes. At the time they said it looked great. It's beat up so bad now they said it's unrepairible.
Doug
 
Ya I thought that was pretty cool congrats!

Soooo... nobody brought it back for you?
Thanks! And as luck would have it, a fellow racer just dropped it off a few minutes ago.
 
Nice Plaque. My 9"converter had been apart 2 years ago. since then maybe 200 passes. At the time they said it looked great. It's beat up so bad now they said it's unrepairible.
Doug
Thanks, yes a nice award. I guess regardless of a 8 or 9” converter, they can all fail. Not sure why that gear set bushing came loose, although it never was tight to start with. I can only think the tolerance was a bit much to start with and it’s going to be repaired as such.
03DBECA5-E67F-441C-AACF-ACFDF935EF4F.jpeg
 
I thought my bud was going to do these studs in a couple weeks. Got a message today to pick them up after work. Are two spacers legal, or do I need to have a longer set built? A washer under the long spacer would be enough.

256437C4-5BA5-4A64-A42C-8535B4272A75.jpeg
 
I thought my bud was going to do these studs in a couple weeks. Got a message today to pick them up after work. Are two spacers legal, or do I need to have a longer set built? A washer under the long spacer would be enough.

View attachment 1375171
Did you forget your disc hat? ;)
 
20220926_225022.jpg

I have to get back on the mill. Kinda stalled out when I finally noticed the checker springs were at "full coil bind " @.680 lift. Will cut those down.
Then have to re vamp the pushrod checker end.
I think I have enough rocker shaft studs.
There's a wee bit of slack with the new JP chain.. wait a minute.. maybe another member has some insight???
@Wookie316
 
I already have a vacuum pump and vacuum Racepak sensor. Already have 5/8" studs. I may upgrade to dual 4500 throttle bodies and switch over to Holley EFI and add a few more Racepak sensors for more data acquisition. May also add some double adjustable rear shocks.
 
View attachment 1375502
I have to get back on the mill. Kinda stalled out when I finally noticed the checker springs were at "full coil bind " @.680 lift. Will cut those down.
Then have to re vamp the pushrod checker end.
I think I have enough rocker shaft studs.
There's a wee bit of slack with the new JP chain.. wait a minute.. maybe another member has some insight???
@Wookie316
Yeah my Cloyes has slack also.
Which beast is this?
 
I already have a vacuum pump and vacuum Racepak sensor. Already have 5/8" studs. I may upgrade to dual 4500 throttle bodies and switch over to Holley EFI and add a few more Racepak sensors for more data acquisition. May also add some double adjustable rear shocks.
My buddy just got his dominator system tuned on his 750" hemi.. happier than a pig in poop!
 
This is the old barney 440... any recollection if it was line bored?
Ahh. That was a good motor for me.
I believe it was done.
I ran a Cloyes in it as well. It was the smaller size not standard. But I believe the chain still slacked a bit.

Here is the dyno sheet off that motor. It ran 10.90’s in Barney.

C5BA63E9-0E6A-41FF-A2F0-810B2F13E5DA.jpeg
 
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