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Cooling not worth a SH!T

How many amps does each 14” fan draw? They may need their own relay if it’s significant. Each of my fans draw 24 amps, and with the PWM controller they slowly ramp up so I don’t incur a “spike” on the alternator.
 
Well the 16' fan is sold, wouldn`t work, no clearance. Have reworked the fan shroud for 2 / 14" elec fans, am going to install today I hope. The offset 14' top fan clears the pump pulley bolt about 1/4". Wish it was more, but am not bent out of shape over it w/ the engine on a motor plate, and a for/aft tiedown on it. The bottom 14" fan had to be outside the shroud a little on the pass. side and on the bottom. Had to make and weld some alum sheet parts to seal it so it would suck thru the rad. only.
This is the first time I tried welding alum. w/ a spool gun on my mig welder. I have found NO information at all on using one on sheet alum. , all the info I found is on 1/8" and heavier. I got it but it aint the prettiest, guess I`ll paint it flat black to make it look better. Still have to wire the new fans up. The two 14" pullers will be on fan circuit # 1 , the 15"pusher will be on fan circuit # 2. More to come --------------

Follow up-------The 14" fans can be controlled by one special 60 amp relay. But after I got the shroud sorted out w/ the fans mounted on it, they sure don`t pull the amount of air as they do freewheeling when unmounted. I have my doubts about them working on my 505" engine , maybe a 440 milder street engine or smaller. My fast fuel.inj. system will control all three fans , but the setup is diff. , it engages the fans by grounding them at a preset (on the handheld) temp. Still got to work that out. The only hope I have is because of the front 15" pusher fan helping the new ones.------more to come----
 
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You talking to me ? If so, I will have 2 fans , one in front now, the other will be in the new shroud I`m waiting on. Should be here today. What ''DEAL'' ?--------BOB
Your better off with 2 fans or a 2 speed fan than a single speed single fan. I have a new Volvo 2 speed (same as the Taurus) with the Volvo relay and fuse that I can’t use in my dart due to there being very little room. That fan is a monster!! Damn thing pulls something in the neighborhood of 4500cfm when on full boogie. If you find that you need more cooling, I’ll make ya a hell of a deal.

-P M sent.
 
With the new Derale controller and upgraded temp sending unit for the controller, I’m happy to report that coolant temps are perfect. It was cool outside this morning so I may need to adjust it, but I’m pleased with how little the fans run and also how slow they are moving. Now as the temp increases, the fans ramp up to meet the demand.
 
With the new Derale controller and upgraded temp sending unit for the controller, I’m happy to report that coolant temps are perfect. It was cool outside this morning so I may need to adjust it, but I’m pleased with how little the fans run and also how slow they are moving. Now as the temp increases, the fans ramp up to meet the demand.

Good to see your temps are stable, it was 85* the other day when I took my car out. I believe it only got into the 180-182* engine temperature range.

Just installed a fan shroud on mine, had to be pretty heavily modified. Still running a pusher fan, would be nice to not worry about the Chrysler electrical systems and run a modern 180-amp alternator (rather than my 60-amp denso unit). The Jaguar fan clutch setup a lot of us run is setup up for thermal lockup well above 180* (guessing around 195*), so it's inefficient for these cars for sure. The Sniper EFI system can control two separate electric fans, so would be nice if I could utilize that feature and run a setup like yours.

I think I may try this?
http://midamericachevelles.com/tech/fan_clutch_adjust.pdf
 
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If ya ever want to go electric, I have a 2 speed Volvo fan with relay setup that the Sniper can control.

You’ll need to upgrade to an 70/80 amp alternator, but that’s simple.
 
Good to see your temps are stable, it was 85* the other day when I took my car out. I believe it only got into the 180-182* engine temperature range.

Just installed a fan shroud on mine, had to be pretty heavily modified. Still running a pusher fan, would be nice to not worry about the Chrysler electrical systems and run a modern 180-amp alternator (rather than my 60-amp denso unit). The Jaguar fan clutch setup a lot of us run is setup up for thermal lockup well above 180* (guessing around 195*), so it's inefficient for these cars for sure. The Sniper EFI system can control two separate electric fans, so would be nice if I could utilize that feature and run a setup like yours.

I think I may try this?
http://midamericachevelles.com/tech/fan_clutch_adjust.pdf
I MAY HAVE POSTED THIS ELSEWHERE, BUT I`VE ALREADY PULLED THE TWO NEW 14" FANS OFF, EVEN W/ THE FRONT 15" PUSHER THEY WOULDN`T KEEP IT COOL. Got the old mech belt driven fan back on it. The two 14'' FANS would probably keep a 5-600 h.p. engine cool, ESPECIALLY IN A BIGGER B BODY WITH THE BIG RADIATOR. as always, disregard the caps !
 
Why not toss in a 26x19 radiator?
 
If ya ever want to go electric, I have a 2 speed Volvo fan with relay setup that the Sniper can control.

You’ll need to upgrade to an 70/80 amp alternator, but that’s simple.

Already went with the smaller Denso unit upgrade (AR Engineering). I just would prefer to not rely on the electric at all, this setup should easily cool this car if the fan would actually engage (lock-up) at the proper temperature.

Next step is building an air pan to seal the breather to the hood, should bring down IAT's quite considerably. That's a different subject entirely, but nearly as important as coolant temp.
 
Then your on the right track. Keep us posted.
 
Why not toss in a 26x19 radiator?
28x19 crossflow griffin. 135 AMP ONE WIRE ALTERNATOR. FANS RAN FULL SPEED AS THEY DID WHEN TESTING OUT IN THE FLOOR.
THEY SURPRISED ME BY THE AMOUNT OF AIR THEY DID PULL THRU THE RAD. I ATTEST TO THE FACT THE THIN fan shroud was at fault. My mech shroud is about 2-2 1/2 deep.
 
Doing some checking around the engine today and felt coolant from the Flowkooler water pump. So I grabbed my telescope mirror and sure as ****, it’s coming from the weep hole! Damn thing is only 2 months old. Going back to Summit for a refund.

I’ll have to toss in my other one which is also a high volume pump. So I know what I’m doing tomorrow.
 
Got the Flowkooler pump out and it was definitely leaking from the weep hole.

So I jumped on Summit and got another coming to me. I’ll send this one back for a refund. I do like this pump cause it does MOVE coolant! The other pump I have, well, you couldn’t tell if the coolant was moving or stagnant.

41BD646E-08CB-46F3-8F1F-005C9ACF0545.jpeg 12DB8A65-0FBD-4811-9E7D-F0AE46A0D3D7.jpeg
 
I'm using a mancini racing hi flow aluminum housing and pump with 26" OEM radiator, trick flow aluminum heads on 499ci stroker, 180F stant, OEM 7 blade and shroud. Temp gets to 190F max idling in 80F with the IR thermometer.
 
New Flowkooler pump is back in along with the radiator/dual fan combo.

Been working on Hemi-itis’s 63’ grille/hl bezels. So that has taken priority over my stuff till the weekend comes.
 
I'm using a mancini racing hi flow aluminum housing and pump with 26" OEM radiator, trick flow aluminum heads on 499ci stroker, 180F stant, OEM 7 blade and shroud. Temp gets to 190F max idling in 80F with the IR thermometer.

Clutch fan or mechanical?
 
yes i know but I'm not worried, it's a street car making 600bhp. I can spare some some power for accessories as long as it stays cool.
 
ok i just watched the dulcich and freiberger show on fans, you were right i might rethink this fan situation lol. Maybe throw the clutch fan on, or try to run without a shroud. Without the shroud it won't pull as much air so the cooling might be reduced, and i really don't want to put big amp draw items in. Damn, that sucked to watch...thanks!
 
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