dimmer switch repair help please

[junior340]

On the dimmer switch the coil has come unglued, I was wondering what would work to reglue this.
Looks like old pasty white stuff. I cleaned it up so that is why whole coil is dangling like wet noodle.

I did a search and couldn't find anything yet.

 

[65-440]

Do a search on Ebay, there's a guy who rebuilds those

 

[Runner 68]

I'm assuming dash dimmer.
What's that off of Junior?
It sure looks a hell of allot like this. https://www.classicindustries.com/product/mb16951.html

 

[davek]

Call Jim great guy did all mine for my challenger. http://www.jsrestorations.com/

 

[junior340]

Thanks for replying, I am working on a customers 69 charger. And am I testing ways to repair on a couple other broken ones first .
I do realize I can buy a new one but being stubborn and wanting to fix what I have, they are very well built and lasted this long.
Seems these roller knob style need more repair than others I see.

 

[Runner 68]

Thanks for replying, I am working on a customers 69 charger. And am I testing ways to repair on a couple other broken ones first .
I do realize I can buy a new one but being stubborn and wanting to fix what I have, they are very well built and lasted this long.
Seems these roller knob style need more repair than others I see.

Do the cowboy math. It's a 69 Charger for crying out loud.
Buy the repro for ~$200 shipped which in reality is probably more stable than the original anyway, or spend ~$300 having it repaired, shipped back and forth, plus brain damage, which it will probably fail 2 months down the road in which case your customer will blame you.
How much time have you spent already testing "how to repair" it?
Buy the new part and be done with it.

 

[junior340]

I posted only one question and it was about the glue.

 

[Runner 68]

OK, glue it.

 

[65-440]

I would think you could use whatever you want to glue it back down as long as the ends are making good contact. Maybe a thin bead of weather strip glue, or something thick like that for the spring to squeeze into ?

 

[65-440]

As far as the repo part goes, I'd pay to have my factory one repaired / rebuilt before I spent that money on a piece of **** repop..... unless the car just sits in the garage to look pretty then fine, but I've found the major of the new replacement parts out there are garbage when put to constant use. Didn't take me long to see why people pay good money to have their original stuff restored !

 

[hunt2elk]

That is the one switch that doesn't come apart easily. I drill out the rivets, clean all the contact points, apply dielectric grease, tap the 2 holes, and use 6-32 socket head cap screws to put back together. You should be able to epoxy the spring back down.

 

[Pops1967GTX]

 

[junior340]

Thanks for the ideas, I appreciate it.

 

[Runner 68]

As far as the repo part goes, I'd pay to have my factory one repaired / rebuilt before I spent that money on a piece of **** repop..... unless the car just sits in the garage to look pretty then fine, but I've found the major of the new replacement parts out there are garbage when put to constant use. Didn't take me long to see why people pay good money to have their original stuff restored !

You would be surprised at the quality of the "Repop" parts these days, depending on the part. Must have been a while since you have purchased one.
1960's plastic and pot metal parts sucked @ss then and after 50 years they really suck. Why rebuild **** material to begin with? Glue it? Yea, there's a fix that will last for years and years.
It's a 69 Charger for Christ's sake. Is your client using it as a daily commuter? If so, god help the car.

 

[beanhead]

Best would be an electronic epoxy/potting compound like Max MCR...not cheap but using any type of glue, I would doubt the strength in those conditions over time. If that piece were to spring loose again while in operation, that could be bad..do it right, or just replace it..

 

[Nacho-RT74]

One detail must be considered! The REAL deal there is attach the end of spring. The glue is the easy part, just plain an simple epoxy will make the job. No special glue needed. BUT the end is loosen, so mostly sure got broken from the rivet inserted on ceramic?

 

[65-440]

You would be surprised at the quality of the "Repop" parts these days, depending on the part. Must have been a while since you have purchased one.
1960's plastic and pot metal parts sucked @ss then and after 50 years they really suck. Why rebuild **** material to begin with? Glue it? Yea, there's a fix that will last for years and years.
It's a 69 Charger for Christ's sake. Is your client using it as a daily commuter? If so, god help the car.

Offended ? Not sure why.. unless your car is full of repo parts ?? As for me, I've bought my fair share of "quality" / "restoration" parts over the last few years for 2 different cars. Both my cars and both get driven, most of those "quality" parts I have not been happy with. More than 1 occasion I've kicked myself within a year of tossing the original part in the garbage instead of just sending it out for a rebuild. So there ya have it, I speak from my experience and many others with agree I'm sure ...

 

[Nacho-RT74]

I preffer to reuse and recondition used parts where is posible before think on buy repro parts... of course if is not posible will get a new part, the best as posible on market, but without confidence.

 

[mopar 3 B]

I am not willing to put Chinese made **** into my all American car. End of discussion.

 

[Runner 68]

Offended ? Not sure why.. unless your car is full of repo parts ?? As for me, I've bought my fair share of "quality" / "restoration" parts over the last few years for 2 different cars. Both my cars and both get driven, most of those "quality" parts I have not been happy with. More than 1 occasion I've kicked myself within a year of tossing the original part in the garbage instead of just sending it out for a rebuild. So there ya have it, I speak from my experience and many others with agree I'm sure ...

Oh I'm not offended, sorry if it sounded that way. It's your deal, do what you want with it. Replacing with a repop or having it re-built are simply the only tow options in this case IMHO. The main thing I don't like about repop is the "Made in China" issue on a classic american car. In most cases there is no alternative.

I have never had a problem with quality in the past. I hate dash work and would just hate to see a glue job come flying apart after a month or two.