• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

66 Charger - input if you have any?

Trunk, floor pans, cowl (where water runs down windshield leaves or other stuff gets in there and blocks drain. Then as time goes by the sheet metal rusts away.
Check below batter tray. Acid eats away metal there.
Make sure the radiator core support is solid and not rusted.
Pull door panels and clean out leaves and stuff from bottom of doors. There is a drain here that if stopped up causes rust.
I am not an expert at anything automotive related. You name a common mistake. I have more than likely made it.
 
Trunk, floor pans, cowl (where water runs down windshield leaves or other stuff gets in there and blocks drain. Then as time goes by the sheet metal rusts away.
Check below batter tray. Acid eats away metal there.
Make sure the radiator core support is solid and not rusted.
Pull door panels and clean out leaves and stuff from bottom of doors. There is a drain here that if stopped up causes rust.
I am not an expert at anything automotive related. You name a common mistake. I have more than likely made it.
Check your frame rails, and torsion bar cross member. Rust never sleeps.
 
What part of the country did the car come from ? To save yourself a headache if it came with a small block stick with that. Especially if it's your first car. Just saying. I don't want to come across like Drill Instructor Hartman.
I think 360 is still a small block? Do we think this isn't a 360?
 
I think 360 is still a small block? Do we think this isn't a 360?
If the engine is original and it's a 1966 small block it should be a polyhead A 318, unless somebody swapped an LA 318, or a 360. LA 318 engines replaced the A 318's in 1967, as far as I know. Chicago Blackhawks time. Keep your stick on the ice, and your head up
 
I hear you. I am putting up all the money in the end we want to resell it and do it again. I've got a spread sheet and I keep tabs on all expenditures including lunches. The goal is to at least break even. If we can make a couple bucks that's cool too. The budget is whatever it has to be. =)

I read on another forum that they had RV engine's that were also 440s any thoughts on something of that nature? Will it be too different to work?

440 is definitely 1 of the factory engine's that came with these.
No 440's in 1966 Chargers !!
 
1966 Charger
318 Poly, 361 2v, 383 4v, 426 Hemi
For 1967
318 LA, 383 2v, 383 4v, 440, 426 Hemi
 
66 and 67 typically don't rust in the trunk or the cowl.

Quarters right over the wheel arch, right in back and right in front.
Fenders at the dog leg.

The kicker- front frame rails between body and shock/torsion bar mounts and trans cross member.
Check those areas REAL GOOD, all the way around the frame sections.

I have seen the rear frame near the spring shackle rust out but that is not common.

Minor rust in the front floor boards is common right over the trans cross member and frame rail.
Usually doesn't get into the frame rail unless it's constantly wet.
 
Last edited:
Very Cool Cars - I bought my first 1 B4 I had my license and built it in the parents driveway/garage , best advice ? Evaluate - Have Patience - Research - Communicate , if you both decide to go forward with the project , make it run/move & stop 1st - then see where you're at and Re-evaluate ! // I had 2 and they have a special meaning for me , they led me down the Mopar for life path that I'm still on @ 60+ I'm getting out my 70 R/T to get it going again, which might be my last venture - Best of Luck ! - you might want to check the proportioning valve on that brake issue ? It might have got off center if there was someone working on them like you said , it could block either front or rear
 
66 and 67 typically don't rust in the trunk or the cowl.

Quarters right over the wheel arch, right in back and right in front.
Fenders at the dog leg.

The kicker- front frame rails between body and shock/torsion bar mounts and trans cross member.
Check those areas REAL GOOD, all the way around the frame sections.

I have seen the rear frame near the spring shackle rust out but that is not common.

Minor rust in the front floor boards is common right over the trans cross member and frame rail.
Usually doesn't get into the frame rail unless it's constantly wet.

I agree although I would add two
Drivers floorboard under the gas pedal
Rocker panels under the stainless
 
Very Cool Cars - I bought my first 1 B4 I had my license and built it in the parents driveway/garage , best advice ? Evaluate - Have Patience - Research - Communicate , if you both decide to go forward with the project , make it run/move & stop 1st - then see where you're at and Re-evaluate ! // I had 2 and they have a special meaning for me , they led me down the Mopar for life path that I'm still on @ 60+ I'm getting out my 70 R/T to get it going again, which might be my last venture - Best of Luck ! - you might want to check the proportioning valve on that brake issue ? It might have got off center if there was someone working on them like you said , it could block either front or rear
Thanks we'll look at the proportioning valve, we did find 1 bad hose and ordered a replacement so maybe not a waste of time there anyways.
 
If one hose is bad they should all be replaced, likely all the same age.
 
Old hoses are definitely an issue , change them ! I miss understood, thought you said they looked replaced, you can re-center valve - remove brake failure light switch and a small pick tool etc will get you down in there to move back to center - it's a small rod w/detent the switch sets down in , you need to center it and hold it there until you have pressure in lines at both front & rear - it's a safety valve to try and save you some brakes, but they will move if being too aggressive bleeding - it thinks there is a leak and slides to close off front or rear - you can look up a diagram to get a better idea what you're working with - good luck
 
Old hoses are definitely an issue , change them ! I miss understood, thought you said they looked replaced, you can re-center valve - remove brake failure light switch and a small pick tool etc will get you down in there to move back to center - it's a small rod w/detent the switch sets down in , you need to center it and hold it there until you have pressure in lines at both front & rear - it's a safety valve to try and save you some brakes, but they will move if being too aggressive bleeding - it thinks there is a leak and slides to close off front or rear - you can look up a diagram to get a better idea what you're working with - good luck
Interesting...this is the first time I've heard of being able to do that in these, is this only the 66 single master system?
 
Old hoses are definitely an issue , change them ! I miss understood, thought you said they looked replaced, you can re-center valve - remove brake failure light switch and a small pick tool etc will get you down in there to move back to center - it's a small rod w/detent the switch sets down in , you need to center it and hold it there until you have pressure in lines at both front & rear - it's a safety valve to try and save you some brakes, but they will move if being too aggressive bleeding - it thinks there is a leak and slides to close off front or rear - you can look up a diagram to get a better idea what you're working with - good luck

Hey thanks for that. What is the valve called name wise so I can find the diagram? Or if you have a good lead where to find it that would work too.
 
Hey thanks for that. What is the valve called name wise so I can find the diagram? Or if you have a good lead where to find it that would work too.
I believe hes talking about the proportioning valve. It's that brass block below the master cylinder that the line goes into.
 
Old hoses are definitely an issue , change them ! I miss understood, thought you said they looked replaced, you can re-center valve - remove brake failure light switch and a small pick tool etc will get you down in there to move back to center - it's a small rod w/detent the switch sets down in , you need to center it and hold it there until you have pressure in lines at both front & rear - it's a safety valve to try and save you some brakes, but they will move if being too aggressive bleeding - it thinks there is a leak and slides to close off front or rear - you can look up a diagram to get a better idea what you're working with - good luck
upload_2020-3-13_20-57-36.png

Ours doesn't look like this. Ours has a bronze block to split and in the documentation I can find it talks about disc brakes and we have drum brakes.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top