Loosen the 2 nuts holding the vent frame mounting bracket to the forward end of the door and push them outboard. Same with the track "fork" stud in the bottom of the door.
1968 Plymouth GTX
- Thread starter '68 Coronet R/T
- Start date
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
Yes, I have that all the way outward. I'm wondering if I need to bend the part that holds the pin?
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
I'll give that a go and see what happens.
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
Push, pull, tug, loosen, retighten and repeat.
This is a close as I can get it and I'm not happy with it.
The drip rail seal doesn't look right and I'm not sure the fit at the top of the vent window is correct either.
This is a close as I can get it and I'm not happy with it.
The drip rail seal doesn't look right and I'm not sure the fit at the top of the vent window is correct either.
That drip rail seal should be inside the stainless all the way around...
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
Thanks,
I was wondering about that but the way it was designed it seemed to naturally go to the outside. I'll take a closer look at it.
I was wondering about that but the way it was designed it seemed to naturally go to the outside. I'll take a closer look at it.
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
Okay, the seals didn't come with instructions and I had them installed on the wrong sides.
Here's where I'm at now:
The upper portion of the door glass still needs to go in about an 1/8" to fit correctly but it's a lot closer than it was.
Here's where I'm at now:
The upper portion of the door glass still needs to go in about an 1/8" to fit correctly but it's a lot closer than it was.
Have you got the lower fork stud full outboard, along with the vent frame bracket two nuts most of the way out? If so, you may need to bend the track fork a bit to help force the top of the frame inward. Takes some balance to get it right... you may actually need to move the vent frame bracket in a bit to make it tuck in at the top. Keep in mind you need to loosen the allen socket head and both the vent frame nut and bolt slightly to let it move each time.
Having just tried to follow along with the FSM on this very thing, I found it a bit confusing as well.
Some of the terms they use in the written directions don't match items in the illustrations for example.
I think it would be darn handy to have a single diagram of all the locations of adjusting fasteners on
these doors, along with what each controls.
Some of the terms they use in the written directions don't match items in the illustrations for example.
I think it would be darn handy to have a single diagram of all the locations of adjusting fasteners on
these doors, along with what each controls.
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
I did loosen the Y fork bracket bolts and slid it as far outboard as possible and then tightened them down. Are you saying I should leave them loose?
And yes, I did loosen the socket head as well. I think I will try to go through the whole process one more time seeing I have the seals on correctly now.
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
I will try to post pictures of everything involved since I still have the driver's door to do.
Main thing is, if you're trying to get the top of the vent frame in tight... the bottom fork needs to swing all the way out. The vent frame bracket and it's two nuts in the forward end of the door are the assembles pivot point, so they can vary. Leave everything loose, pull the bottom fork fully outboard, push the top of the vent frame in (WITH THE DOOR OPEN)and snug a few things up. Then close the door and see where you're at.
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
Inside the door bracket for vent window fork. The mounting nuts are accessed from the front hinge area:
This is the Allen head adjusting screw set up. See the next photo for mounting point in door:
Allen head adjusting screw mounting location. Allen head points inward and is accessed through small hole in door (next picture).
The other adjusting points are the pin at the bottom vent window channel and the rear channel that has a bolt at the top and bolt accessed through hole in rear of door that slides in a slotted "L" bracket mount. Everything shown in this picture:
I was able to get my passenger door glass adjusted correctly by holding pressure on it while tightening the adjusting screws.
This is the Allen head adjusting screw set up. See the next photo for mounting point in door:
Allen head adjusting screw mounting location. Allen head points inward and is accessed through small hole in door (next picture).
The other adjusting points are the pin at the bottom vent window channel and the rear channel that has a bolt at the top and bolt accessed through hole in rear of door that slides in a slotted "L" bracket mount. Everything shown in this picture:
I was able to get my passenger door glass adjusted correctly by holding pressure on it while tightening the adjusting screws.
Rear edge of glass is tipped in / out by adjusting the rear channel guide as well.
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
Got the driver's side done today.
Anyone know what the proper gap is on the quarter glass to door glass is?
I set mine at about 1/4" as that's where the taper on the seal ends.
Anyone know what the proper gap is on the quarter glass to door glass is?
I set mine at about 1/4" as that's where the taper on the seal ends.
Door glass seal should sit fairly snug on the quarter glass or you're gonna have wind noise.
'68 Coronet R/T
Well-Known Member
Buffed and installed door exterior trim.
HMMMMMMMM, My 68 GTX doesn't have trim at the top of the door! What did that door come off of? It looks
nice, but ????
nice, but ????
1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
Here's a 68 Sales Brochure...
The GTX was the top of the line.. It came with lots of trim as standard equipment... I'd be more concerned about a GTX without trim than one with trim....
1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
In fact I just went to the Hamtramck Historical site and looked it up.. Belt line moldings code 540 are standard on GTX and Sport Satellite
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