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What did you do to your Mopar today?

I had a bad miss on #8 cylinder on the 440 in my '67 R/T. I traced it to a bad spark plug wire. I replaced it, and everything is good again. I recently had my rear springs re-arched, raising the back end about 2". Checking the headlight beam alignment, I found it was way off, so I adjusted it. The front ball joints were all replaced recently, and now the car drives wonky. It goes for front alignment tomorrow, using spec's I looked up here for old Mopars with newer radial tires.
 
Stripped the interior on her TJ. Gonna scuff and bedline it tomorrow. No more carpet!

IMG_20250721_224645462.jpg
IMG_20250721_224651045.jpg
IMG_20250721_230310344.jpg
 
re shot the engine compartment and touched up the trunk latch mount. the spray gun is over. doing the blackout area tomorrow with a spray bomb. will be glad for the end of paint.
20250722_170558.jpg
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20250722_170615.jpg
 
About a month ago, I mostly got my front valance reinstalled. It was a pain to line up the 5 mounting bolts and clips on either side, where it bolts onto the fenders...but with some choice words, it bolted on. However, I later noticed that the passenger side leading edge of the valance was not lined up with the front edge of the fender; it was ahead of it about 1/8"; and the 4 holes along the lower rad support wouldn't line up and I couldn't get those bolts threaded. I needed a break from it and made it a 'nother-day problem.

Last night, I got motivated to resolve this. I unbolted the passenger side of the valance, leaving the vertical center brace and driver side bolted, and found that I could manage to pull the valance to the driver side enough to center all the 4 slotted holes and fasteners along the lower rad support.

As I was tightening down those 4 bolts, going from driver side to passenger side, I could see they were getting harder and harder to thread in. That's when I saw what was causing all the frustration: Years ago when I installed the new Champion rad, I also installed a transmission cooler; I did this install when my original valance wasn't on the car. With the valance back on the car, the lower cooler hose was being pinched between the valance and lower rad support, preventing it from lining up properly. There's always a reason, eh? :rolleyes:

This is a years-old "before" pic showing what would later become an issue:
TransCooler1.jpg


I removed the lower cooler hose, got a longer length of it and got it routed more to the left where it would bypass the curve of the rad support, and wouldn't you know it--the valance bolted on much more easily with all the holes lined up!
 
Not today, but Sunday....
Rebuilt and ran wire into all the passages on the Edelbrock 1407 in my Belvedere. Car was running rough and I suspect some passages were plugged. Wasn't the first time. Took about 20 minutes and she was tip top after.
Screenshot_20250723_182037_Messages.jpg
 
Rebuilding the carb on my B200. Holley 500 2bbl. The dry float setting is throwing me off, as the float is just flopping inside, not even close to the needle ? That's how it came apart ???
 
I began replacing the GTX's radiator. The old still works, but spits a bit when hot outside. And is looking long in the tooth. I'm also adding a MP radiator shoud. Which it hasn't had in at least 20 years. (I'm guessing that will help more than new cores.) The greenage has to go. Just for engine bay appearance if nothing else.

I'll post before and after pics when done. (I'll be doing a little touch-up cleaning and some light painting.) So should be more comfortable popping the hood at small shows. (Last one someone brought a gem '69 GTX. A near #5 condition.) So my #3 driver quality condition was certainly upstaged. Lol.
 
I decided to finally give the repro battery a transplant, and even though I could have saved a few bucks by going with a 925, I decided to replace them with the original 680 style batteries after giving me 18 years of reliable service.
I first cut the top off right under the lid lip with a cutoff wheel on a Dremel
20250720_140750.jpg

After that I cut out the bottom by drilling a series of holes and finishing it off with a cutoff wheel. I had to be very careful with the drill placement since there was very little room between the battery case and the inside wall
20250720_171032.jpg

Once the floor and batteries were removed I could install the 1/8" black plexiglass floor
20250722_161445.jpg

Extra adhesive was added to the inside perimeter where the floor meets the case since it will be permanent. Installed new batteries with strips of velcro on the bottoms to prevent lateral movement, as well as ease of future replacement.
20250723_160740.jpg

Once the batteries were in and connected I secured the lid with a thick bead of ultra black rtv, let it fully cure, and trimmed the squeeze-out with a utility blade. When the time comes to replace the batteries again it's only a matter of breaking the seal under the lid with a blade and removing everything from the top.
20250724_230844.jpg
 
turbine68rt said:
I decided to finally give the repro battery a transplant, and even though I could have saved a few bucks by going with a 925, I decided to replace them with the original 680 style batteries after giving me 18 years of reliable service.
I first cut the top off right under the lid lip with a cutoff wheel on a DremelView attachment 1890211
After that I cut out the bottom by drilling a series of holes and finishing it off with a cutoff wheel. I had to be very careful with the drill placement since there was very little room between the battery case and the inside wallView attachment 1890217
Once the floor and batteries were removed I could install the 1/8" black plexiglass floorView attachment 1890218
Extra adhesive was added to the inside perimeter where the floor meets the case since it will be permanent. Installed new batteries with strips of velcro on the bottoms to prevent lateral movement, as well as ease of future replacement.View attachment 1890227
Once the batteries were in and connected I secured the lid with a thick bead of ultra black rtv, let it fully cure, and trimmed the squeeze-out with a utility blade. When the time comes to replace the batteries again it's only a matter of breaking the seal under the lid with a blade and removing everything from the top. View attachment 1890229
Click to expand...
I REALLY want one of those? Not sure they are any good? But they are Mopar cool!
 
Cojohnso1 said:
I began replacing the GTX's radiator. The old still works, but spits a bit when hot outside. And is looking long in the tooth. I'm also adding a MP radiator shoud. Which it hasn't had in at least 20 years. (I'm guessing that will help more than new cores.) The greenage has to go. Just for engine bay appearance if nothing else.

I'll post before and after pics when done. (I'll be doing a little touch-up cleaning and some light painting.) So should be more comfortable popping the hood at small shows. (Last one someone brought a gem '69 GTX. A near #5 condition.) So my #3 driver quality condition was certainly upstaged. Lol.
Click to expand...

The Gearhead Gathering at Warren’s garage condo complex?
 
Cojohnso1 said:
I REALLY want one of those? Not sure they are any good? But they are Mopar cool!
Click to expand...
What's nice about the AGM batteries is they will at least give you a warning that they are at end-of-life, compared to a wet battery. It's been cranking noticeably slower for about the last year, but it still started it. The new ones have a life expectancy of 3-10 years, which I'm sure was the same for the old ones but I was lucky to squeeze 18 out of them. I definitely got my money's worth from those. I think the new repros have Turbostart in them.
 
Painting other small parts, in addition to the wheels painted earlier, leading up to painting the car itself happening soon.....
PXL_20250726_194521590.jpg


The midnight blue pearl looks black in the shadow or if indirectly viewed, but you can see the blue better in the sun:
Screenshot 2025-07-26 3.07.31 PM.png
 
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